Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
Let's see ... here's some quickie notes on mounting the front busa calipers on a pre-93 forked max.
I ordered Sean's adapaters.
I ordered the ebay rotors.
I ordered some busa 6-pot calipers.
I finally ordered some new lines, but currently have the OEM lines hooked up because the new ones have not come yet, but they really have nothing to do with hooking up the busa adapters, and you don't actually need them.
Pics of the rotors and calipers are below, but here is what you do.
First, raise the bike and remove the front wheel.
Second, remove each of the rotors by pulling out the bolts and throwing the new one's on. This seriously couldn't be easier once you have the wheel off. However, get some proper hex head sockets (allen head) and a good big ratchet, because mine were glued in with lock tight that was 20 years old and an absolute bear to remove. I started using just "L" shaped allen wrenches and wasn't having much luck. It's doable, but a pain in the ass. My sockets and breaker bar made quick work of the bolts.
Ok, fine, get the wheel mounted back on the bike.
Assuming you have the calipers removed, loosen and remove the brake line feed for each caliper. It's gonna make a mess, so enjoy that.
Ok, set the old calipers aside. Hang on to the two copper washers and banjo bolts from each caliper though, you can use them on the new calipers.
Now mount the busa adapater from Sean. It goes upside down, so both holes are up top and the outside hole is pointing away from the forks.
You need to get a nut that threads on one of your existing caliper bolts, and then you ALSO need to get a second SHORTER and non-flanged bolt to hook it all up.
Put the original bolt and new nut through the upper bracket hole closest to the forks. Use some lock tight and tighten it up.
Put the other existing caliper bolt through the lower hole, the adapter, and the new busa caliper, and finally put the new non-flanged shorter bolt through the adapter and the busa caliper.
Carefully check the clearance of the rotor through the caliper. My rotors rubbed the calipers, just ever so slightly. I finagled with the bracket and got the RH one to work great, but the LH one would not co-operate. I ended up having to shave some metal off the inside arc of the caliper to give the router enough clearance. I'm not gonna say how I did it, but be creative, and if you need to out some metal, then "git'er'done."
Ok, you should be mounted up. Do both sides obviously, admire your work, and then hook up the stupid brake lines or you won't be stopping anytime soon.
If you don't know, one copper washer goes on each side of the banjo. Screw that sucker into the caliper, tighten it down, and then viola, you have totally inoperable brakes.
Remember the mess you made with the fluid? Yeah, get out your brake fluid, vibrator, tubing, drain bucket, towels, and bleed the lines. Ugh, I hate that part.
Hopefully your new busa brakes work. Actually, I'm hoping mine work. I'm hoping I put them back together correctly after powder coating and that all the seals are good. I'm hoping that I can get the new lines installed and get them bled and hopefully have some decent braking power up front. We'll see. It will probably be at least a month before I can test ride the bike. Good luck. Here are some pics that I snapped.
I ordered Sean's adapaters.
I ordered the ebay rotors.
I ordered some busa 6-pot calipers.
I finally ordered some new lines, but currently have the OEM lines hooked up because the new ones have not come yet, but they really have nothing to do with hooking up the busa adapters, and you don't actually need them.
Pics of the rotors and calipers are below, but here is what you do.
First, raise the bike and remove the front wheel.
Second, remove each of the rotors by pulling out the bolts and throwing the new one's on. This seriously couldn't be easier once you have the wheel off. However, get some proper hex head sockets (allen head) and a good big ratchet, because mine were glued in with lock tight that was 20 years old and an absolute bear to remove. I started using just "L" shaped allen wrenches and wasn't having much luck. It's doable, but a pain in the ass. My sockets and breaker bar made quick work of the bolts.
Ok, fine, get the wheel mounted back on the bike.
Assuming you have the calipers removed, loosen and remove the brake line feed for each caliper. It's gonna make a mess, so enjoy that.
Ok, set the old calipers aside. Hang on to the two copper washers and banjo bolts from each caliper though, you can use them on the new calipers.
Now mount the busa adapater from Sean. It goes upside down, so both holes are up top and the outside hole is pointing away from the forks.
You need to get a nut that threads on one of your existing caliper bolts, and then you ALSO need to get a second SHORTER and non-flanged bolt to hook it all up.
Put the original bolt and new nut through the upper bracket hole closest to the forks. Use some lock tight and tighten it up.
Put the other existing caliper bolt through the lower hole, the adapter, and the new busa caliper, and finally put the new non-flanged shorter bolt through the adapter and the busa caliper.
Carefully check the clearance of the rotor through the caliper. My rotors rubbed the calipers, just ever so slightly. I finagled with the bracket and got the RH one to work great, but the LH one would not co-operate. I ended up having to shave some metal off the inside arc of the caliper to give the router enough clearance. I'm not gonna say how I did it, but be creative, and if you need to out some metal, then "git'er'done."
Ok, you should be mounted up. Do both sides obviously, admire your work, and then hook up the stupid brake lines or you won't be stopping anytime soon.
If you don't know, one copper washer goes on each side of the banjo. Screw that sucker into the caliper, tighten it down, and then viola, you have totally inoperable brakes.
Remember the mess you made with the fluid? Yeah, get out your brake fluid, vibrator, tubing, drain bucket, towels, and bleed the lines. Ugh, I hate that part.
Hopefully your new busa brakes work. Actually, I'm hoping mine work. I'm hoping I put them back together correctly after powder coating and that all the seals are good. I'm hoping that I can get the new lines installed and get them bled and hopefully have some decent braking power up front. We'll see. It will probably be at least a month before I can test ride the bike. Good luck. Here are some pics that I snapped.