Gen 1 engine rebuild

[one2dmax]

Yea, not spun bearings but a LOT of wear. I'd replace the crank and bearings. Maybe even consider a HD oiling kit from me.

 

[huw s]

What exactly does this oiling kit entail/contain?
It seems there should be a rubber bung/cushion thing under the elbow - none of my engines had one. The replacement engine (the one with loose oil pipework and a popped o ring) has now been doctored by soldering either side of the pipe joining o ring to bias the elbow upward, I did think at the time it should be possible to use a pad underneath or something.

 

[huw s]

Had a bellyfull of this tonight. Spent hours removing, cleaning, heating and reforming each inlet boot. Refitted to the airbox, fitted the airbox, tried the lid - wouldn't go on. There is asteering damper fitted, which I think is pushing the clock pod down onto the airbox lid. And the vent pipes - bah, didn't fit. Anyone got a pic of how these are routed?

 

[one2dmax]

Picture of what you're trying to fit? New airbox boots will work wonders for it sliding down on the carbs with ease.

 

[Fire-medic]

Use some water soluble gel like KY Jelly on the two mating surfaces. And:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21303&highlight=seating

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=35378&highlight=Carbs+seating
Reply #6

 

[huw s]

Inlet boots (the ones in the airbox need replacing - stiff as hell. Could also do with a specialist supplier in the UK for gaskets etc. Not keen on stumping up for a full set, plus I will need another full set for when I build the original engine up. anyone know of a uk supplier?
Pics of the forward controls modified for dual. Waiting for the right fasteners to finish.

 

[one2dmax]

There are some UK guys but not sure who is best over there. I have plenty of the stuff and can ship easily enough if needed. My email is [email protected]

 

[huw s]

Thanks @one2dmax, we'll see, import duties, shipping and vat kill most stuff from the states into uk. Crankshaft on ebay uk £200, open to offers. Can you compete? Pm me if you think you can.
First spin for the vmax trike today
Goes OK, the vboost works, oil light comes on in first and second without giving it everything (i haven't checked the carbs yet so don't want to risk melting a piston). Front brake needs a hard pull, rear is more a slowing down brake at the moment. Clutch switch doesn't seem to work, i can't get it to turn over with the sidestand switch disconnected. I can see why you lot rave about these things.
I think I can feel the 8 thou crank endfloat, as soon as I pull the clutch the harshness coming through the seat dissapears - or is this the gearbox chattering?

 

[huw s]

Well we agreed a price on the crank, with a return guarantee, and I guess we'll argue over the postage if it's not good - too many breakers are selling rubbish over here, with crap photos.
Hopefully will now be able to build the spare engine up, including stripping the heads, maybe a tidy up, new stem seals, some more compression. For now I still have the carbs to strip and inspect, check jet numbers etc. Does anyone have preffered numbers for standard airbox with k&n fitted? Is it worth keeping or should I remove it and go back to original? And what of the y lid - should I fit one?
Thanks

 

[Fire-medic]

Stock needles in the USA don't have multiple grooves. Dynojet needles are engraved with a "DJ" I believe, and their main jet #'s are higher numerically for comparison to a stock OEM main jet. Stock main jets are usually 152.5 size.

If the bike is running OK w/o the Y lid, I'd leave it off. If you go changing things, you might find that running with the lid is needed. Search for 'shimming the Y' or something similar to see what's already posted on this.

I run a K&N and don't shim the lid, I'm using OEM 147.5 main jets on a stock engine, with a UFO full 4/1, and Dynojet Stage 7 kit, but OEM downsize main jets, as-mentioned.

 

[huw s]

Crank arrived today, with conrods. The crank was good, perfect, to the eye anyway. Shame the gorilla that stripped the engine had used a drift on the upper bearings. Only marked one conrod though, redeemable.
So now to sort the main bearing sizes out, check big end clearances and end float. It will take a while, the summer is here, and it won't be a high priority, but I will take it down to the smallest bit before rebuilding it.

 

[PATMAX]

Shop
Manual and lots of good videos on here.
Damon F also has a CD of process.