Hard to find neutral, when bike heats up???

[wayne billings]

Good morning I found a low quality oil can aggravate an already existing shifting problem.

 

[82ndCowboy]

Good morning I found a low quality oil can aggravate an already existing shifting problem.

My Max has the same issue. If I use anything but Shell Rotella, it's finicky about going into neutral. But if I use Shell Rotella no problems finding neutral.

 

[Shuriken]

My Max has the same issue. If I use anything but Shell Rotella, it's finicky about going into neutral. But if I use Shell Rotella no problems finding neutral.

Oil change takes me 10 mins.

I think I'll try the rotella. Makes sense to try the easiest thing first.

 

[Coastal Grey]

Second the use of a different oil

 

[Shuriken]

Well this sludge didn't help any...

So.. easy stuff first. I flushed the front and rear brakes and also the clutch hydraulics.

Bad weather, so I'll have to wait a while for a ride test but the brakes are firm like they should be now and I hope the new, clear fluid will help improve clutch actuation.

This is about the worst master cylinder fluid I've seen on any of the bikes I've purchased. Hopefully the flush and an oil change will do the trick but it may be a day or 2 before I can ride test.

 

[Fire-medic]

This is with the bulk of the DOT fluid removed, but w/o the remaining sludge wiped-out, yes? You may still get some crud out after you remove the sludge above and below the #3 cast-into the floor of the master cylinder, and re-fill it w/fresh DOT 4, and run it for a bit. A second session of drain and re-fill should get any remaining particulate material out, along w/any tainted brake fluid resulting from flushing-out all the hoses/pipes' nooks and crannies. That t-i-n-y hole in the floor of each master cylinder closest-to the banjo bolt and hose is easily clogged, and if it does, you usually lose proper function. Trying to poke-out that small hole with something like a pin from your wife's sewing kit or from a standard size drill index doesn't work because of the size of the hole. You can try using some sort of solvent spray w/a red wand, but that's going to get that solvent all-over your bike's painted surfaces.

Another issue is that you can build-up pressure below the hole from whatever the obstruction is, so the entire hose/pipe is pressurized, and when you do clear-out the obstruction w/something like the small bits below (picture) the brake fluid sprays everywhere. Wear your safety glasses or a face shield when fighting one of these issues!

Harbor Freight Tools has some tiny drill bits that will fit the hole, but you need to be very careful, as any lateral pressure on them and they will snap-off. $7.99

 

[Shuriken]

Agree, absolutely. Thanks for the response.

The pic I sent there was after flushing enough fluid through to clear it up so that I could see the sludge. After I noticed it, I was able to clean most of it out. It looked exactly like I imagined fluid should look if it came with the bike in 2002 and was never changed!

I will definitely take your advice and flush again after testing. Weather forecast shows possible nicer weather next weekend, so hopefully I can get it out and moving and then re-flush. It actually isn't too painful of a process with a Mity Vac.