Help/opinions???

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Vmaxnewfie

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#1... Last week I changed my spark pugs before I rode to my mechanic to replace fork seals and install progressive springs. The plugs that came out are DPR7EA-9, and I put in DPR8EA-9. Before I changed the plugs, the bike ran great. I took my time riding to mechanic's garage due to very cold weather and didn't notice any change. When I picked up my bike today it ran terrible. Found out when I got home that the right rear cylinder was cold. Maybe I have a bad plug? Maybe bad plug wire? Could it be the coil?

#2.... I installed chrome "VMax" master cylinder covers. I had do drill out the old screws, they wouldn't even come out with easy-outs. Once screw heads came off, the threaded part came out with ease after removing the old covers. I threw out the old covers thinking I would never use them again, but today I noticed both new covers are leaking! Yes, they are from flea-bay. I guess this wasn't the best choice. Any ideas of what I should do now? Is there a way to fix the leaks? Possibly new gaskets? Or should I try to find another set of OEM?

Any help or opinions would be great! Besides the motor running on 3, the ride with new fork springs was a huge diference. Wow!
 
when I replace mine they leaked a little too, I put in new gaskets from yamaha and also noticed I had over filled the masters

I think new gaskets would be a good idea... Brake might be overfilled, but the clutch is definitely leaking... It went down in the sight glass on a short ride.
 
I found the problem why my bike is running on 3. Busted wire on coil plug... I must have pulled on it dropping the battery in, making it very weak. Should be an easy fix tomorrow once I get a few things at the hardware store.
 

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Cool you found the problem with the cylinder. An old toolmaker trick for those cover screws is to knick them off center with a punch and hammer, in a counter-clockwise direction. Unscrews them every time!
 
Cool you found the problem with the cylinder. An old toolmaker trick for those cover screws is to knick them off center with a punch and hammer, in a counter-clockwise direction. Unscrews them every time!

and then replace them with allen heads.
 
Also make sure to clean the sealing surface of the reservoir. The aluminum tends to corrode and get crusty.
 
Also make sure to clean the sealing surface of the reservoir. The aluminum tends to corrode and get crusty.

This is why the covers leak 99% of the time....fluid gets between the rubber gasket and sealing surface on the reservoir, oxidation builds pushing the cover up allowing fluid to get out.

You said fluid level went down in the site glass....didn't you see fluid running down down the outside of the reservoir? If not maybe there's a leak elsewhere....and drips under the bike?
 
Cool you found the problem with the cylinder. An old toolmaker trick for those cover screws is to knick them off center with a punch and hammer, in a counter-clockwise direction. Unscrews them every time!

Excellent trick......thanks.....
 
This is why the covers leak 99% of the time....fluid gets between the rubber gasket and sealing surface on the reservoir, oxidation builds pushing the cover up allowing fluid to get out.

You said fluid level went down in the site glass....didn't you see fluid running down down the outside of the reservoir? If not maybe there's a leak elsewhere....and drips under the bike?


Yes, fluid was running down the master for the clutch. Brake master had a bit of fluid ooze out around the screw. Thanks for the tip... I'll take the covers back off and clean up the sealing surface on both before I order new gaskets.
 
Those OEM gaskets have lasted on mine for a lifetime now (mine's an 85). I take them off and hand wash with mild soap and water each spring during my annual brake fluid flush. Sometimes there will be some slight oxidization built up on them and I may have to use my thumbnail to remove, but so far, they've lasted me this long and look solid still.

I do always have to stop and lightly buff the sealing edge on the handlebar master cylinders. I can usually get them clean & smooth enough with a rag wetted with carb cleaner, but on occasion I have had to get the green Scotch 3M pad after them.
 
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