How do you remove stuck carb bolts?

[Screwloose]

I use a combination of many ideas above, but with small inclusions and deviations, but everyone has their methods that suit them, and work. Its never failed me in carb bodies, and i’ve done a few in my years.

Hope this helps someone out somewhere.

With a needle of sorts pick out any dirt from the screw heads, give a non worn screwdriver bit a couple of hammer knocks in the screw to make sure it seats as good as you will ever get it, this sometimes also loosens dirt holding the screw in. Use a small ratchet with bit, holding tight and square to the screw. If it is all too tight then tighten the screw very slightly, then loosen very slightly. Put some lubricant on it and loosen again slightly, lubricant again and tighten in again to get the top threads on body and screw lubricated. If tight go slightly up and down using lubricant each time. I really take my time in this stuff as the consequences are severe. Infact just recently i had to strip all the seized callipers on my car and used the back and forth with lube and slight heat to success.

If I cannot loosen at the beginning i’ll use my precision blowtorch on the body around the screw. If i strip the screw head its hacksaw or dremmel, although i find the dremmel kicks back on you, and runs in the opposite direction from what you expect ( maybe my imagination) but it can take a bite and plough into a job.

Then its slot or jis bit, again tap down and use a ratchet with bit or angled screwdrivers. The torque you get using a ratchet or angled screw driver is far superior than standard. If i remember right the last time i pulled the vmax carbs out i did not need to split the banks at all by using the angled screwdrivers. There is one bowl that appears not to come off, but if you look at it carefully and turn it slightly it does come away (just). Its the gap of an elephants ball hair that clears the bowl from the body. I have to admit though if you have the patience to soak the screws in a lubricant like loosall the day before, then it definitely gives you an edge, even if it just gets under the screw head it still helps.

On bigger stuff, as above, if i strip everything on either stainless, mild steel or alum, then tig weld a nut ontop of the screw.

 

[Fire-medic]

Splitting the carburetors into two halves gives you access to the molded T gas line, and makes it much-easier to disassemble/clean the carbs, easily.

And, what sort of nonsense is it introducing elephant scrotum hair into a metaphor? What's the matter with the female hair colors: black, brown, red, and blonde? Much more appealing!

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Don't say you weren't warned.

View attachment 78236

In The Netherlands, we order OEM stuff from here:

https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-v-max1200-1998-w-usa_model10608/partslist/B-11.html#.YOvURlNNeNw
We have a Dutch saying:

"Better too expensive, then not for sale."

(Literal translation)

 

[Screwloose]

In The Netherlands, we order OEM stuff from here:

https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-v-max1200-1998-w-usa_model10608/partslist/B-11.html#.YOvURlNNeNw
We have a Dutch saying:

"Better too expensive, then not for sale."

(Literal translation)

I’ve never dealt with CMS direct, but I know people who have and still do, everyone I know says they are very reliable. Just looked them up on the map and see they are fairly close to Amsterdam, next time I’m over there I’ll pick up some OEM Yam goodies. Its a good excuse to get over that way again. Nice country and people, I love travelling over there.

Not sure though if there is an added customs charge now for the UK because of Brexit. They are expensive, but the last time I contacted them they were the only people in EU with a VMax shim tool, and in stock too, even Fowler’s did not have one.

Good choice of supplier as far as I’ve heard.

 

[Screwloose]

Splitting the carburetors into two halves gives you access to the molded T gas line, and makes it much-easier to disassemble/clean the carbs, easily.

And, what sort of nonsense is it introducing elephant scrotum hair into a metaphor? What's the matter with the female hair colors: black, brown, red, and blonde? Much more appealing!

I should have extended on ‘the last time’, as this time I was in there for re-adjustment after using the float height measuring tubes whilst the carbs were on the bike. On round 1 the carbs were stripped to the last screw, but I thought it important readers know for re-adjustment round 2 (and possibly rounds 3,4,5) use angled drivers to get into some screws and save allot of time, as it appears some people may be splitting the banks on round 2 and above. If it saves people time then great.

Why female hair?

 

[02GF74]

There is one bowl that appears not to come off, but if you look at it carefully and turn it slightly it does come away (just)

Yes indeed. It's like one of those 3D puzzles. The fact that it came off, means it must be possible to put it back on.

It takes patience and turning/twisting the bowl so the overflow pipes get in, definitely no force is required.

 

[Parminio]

I guess you have good ones.

I have two pair - the best is a very old pair of Craftsman. It's how you grip it that's the ticket. You don't try to come at it like a wrench, from the side. You come at it like a screwdriver, right on top of whatever is left of the head. You adjust them to grip right at the flat end of the pliers.

I normally set it tight enough to where I need both hands to clamp them shut. Then I just grab the plier handles with work gloves on and twist.

Pops them right loose every time.

 

[dannymax]

Splitting the carburetors into two halves gives you access to the molded T gas line, and makes it much-easier to disassemble/clean the carbs, easily.

And, what sort of nonsense is it introducing elephant scrotum hair into a metaphor? What's the matter with the female hair colors: black, brown, red, and blonde? Much more appealing!

Commonly used since the beginning of time...and for more precise measuring we have the split blonde, split black, etc. The split red being the most precise...as everyone knows.

 

[Screwloose]

Commonly used since the beginning of time...and for more precise measuring we have the split blonde, split black, etc. The split red being the most precise...as everyone knows.

Phew, i’ll need to investigate this further tonight. I’ve been comparing elephants to many things since the stone age days. I could give many examples.

 

[Fire-medic]

Phew, i’ll need to investigate this further tonight. I’ve been comparing elephants to many things since the stone age days. I could give many examples.

dannymax is correct, of-course. The location of the various colors on the donor subject is often cited in measurement comparisons, i.e., "from where on the anatomy did the hair originate?" Think of it as answering the question, "does the color of the rug match the color of the drapes (curtains)?"

Also a note on Parminio's mention of lock-jaw pliers for screw removal. I use straight-jaw locking pliers as my experience is the curved-jaw Vise-Grips don't work nearly as-well to grip the screw head, or a stubborn bolt. I usually just come-in from one side or the other, rather than his overhead (screwdriver) approach, whatever works, is really the theme of this thread, I'd say. That's the benefit of reading everyone's pet methods of solving vexing problems, if yours doesn't gain you the success you sought, perhaps another VMF member's method will, if you remember to be open to new ideas.

 

[BHZ]

I’m 52 years old and have disassembled/rebuilt my 01 carbs 5 times now. Not sure how hard Fire-medic thinks you hit the impact but that’s the best way to get a screw out. There is way more risk of damaging a carburetor with a Dremel, vice grips or pliers. If you scratch or scuff the zinc coating the the part will start oxidizing.
I will say no matter how you get it out replace all the screws with stainless hex head bolts using anti-seize on every one of them. It’ll make your life way easier the next time.
Sean Morley (One2DMax) can supply a complete kit.

I'd be interested to know what's out there for the Allen head bolts for the carburetors. Color choice at all? I'd like to switch out all those nasty Phillips heads..

 

[Dkid]

im pact driver works great, who asked this guy? lol ^

Bud You better Check yourself. He's FORGOTTEN More than you Know about the Max!!!

 

[AzulFritz]

I've been there with stuck carb bolts, and your approach sounds solid! Using a Dremel to create a flat surface for a screwdriver or grip with pliers is a clever move. Another tip I'd add is to try some penetrating oil like WD-40 or PB Blaster; it can work wonders on stubborn bolts. Then, replace the bolts with these ones scrooz.com.au. Good luck with your carb work!

 

[gcurtis102]

I have pulled apart several sets of carbs on many different bikes. All seem to have stuck bolts. I use a set of vice grip plyers turn sideways to the axis of the bolt. Get a good grip and they will snap loose and then be easy to remove. I always replace the bolts with new stainless allen head screws with a small dab of anti seize. Several vendors sell ahcs screw sets on eBay.

 

[D Larson]

This weekend I was working on the carb for my daughters Honda Metropolitan. I gave up trying to get it apart. A new carb was $75 which so cheap that even if i got the old one apart, it makes me doubt the time to do it.

If only that was the price for a VMAX part.........