How much oil?

[6spdbbody]

Bout to do my first oil change, gonna go with some castrol 10w-40 automotive oil, but was curious how many quarts does it usually take? And what filters is everybody using? Thanx a lot.

 

[4gasem]

Bout to do my first oil change, gonna go with some castrol 10w-40 automotive oil, but was curious how many quarts does it usually take? And what filters is everybody using? Thanx a lot.

You know I am not sure how many qts it takes as I use gallon containers and never really pay attention to it... It's over 3 though... 3.5 3.6?? I know my SV holds 3.1 though...:whistlin:

I will warn you against using any oils that say "energy conserving" on it... They limit the amount of shear additives in it. A motorcycle isn't a car. The transmission whips the schitt out of the oil and needs more shear additives in it.

Many people use Shell Rotella T 15W40 and love it... I am using it without any issues.
It is designed for diesels and isn't lacking the additives that car oil is.


That being said, I am using a Mobile 1 oil filter on mine.:thumbs up:

 

[Buster Hymen]

Bout to do my first oil change, gonna go with some castrol 10w-40 automotive oil, but was curious how many quarts does it usually take? And what filters is everybody using? Thanx a lot.

I believe the amount it holds is printed on the motor right by the oil cap. It will probably be in litres though so you are going to have to convert it to quarts.
I'm not by my bike right now but I think it was 3.5 litres which is just over 3.5 quarts. This is a guess so make sure you double check.:thumbs up:

 

[buckridge]

hello all , 4.02 quarts if filter is changed. best to you all . buckridge

 

[Buster Hymen]

hello all , 4.02 quarts if filter is changed. best to you all . buckridge

Thank you sir! :cheers:

 

[6spdbbody]

Thanx guys!!! Any body know the oil filter part numbers?

 

[vmaxinID]

Borrowed from Vmaxoutlaw

96 and up

Old info, but juicy.


Motorcycle-Specific Filters - (About 2.5 to 3 inches long)

Purolator Motorcycle ML16817 about $6.00
NAPA Gold 1358, Carquest 85358, WIX 51358 about $7 to $8
AC Delco PF2135 about $10
FRAM PH6017A about $7
Automobile Filters - (About 3.5 inches long - fit reference 1994 Mazda MX-3, V-6 Engine)

Mobil 1 M1-110 about $10
Bosch 3323 about $5
Purolator Pure One L14620 about $6
NAPA Gold 1356, Carquest 85356, WIX 51356 about $6
Deutsch D-370 about $4
AC Delco PF-2057 about $6
Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 about $4
STP S-02867 about $3
FRAM, Castrol, Penske 7317 about $3
Automobile Filters - (About 2.5 inches long - fit reference Mazda RX-7 and Miata)

Bosch 3300 about $5
NAPA Gold 1365 about $6
Purolator L14622 about $5
AC Delco PF1237 about $6
STP S-02876 about $3
FRAM PH6607 about $3
WalMart SuperTech ST6607 about $2
SuperTech filters are made by Champion Laboratories who make Mobil One and Bosch filters and also some automaker brands. While they may not have the advanced filter media of the highest efficiency and highest priced filters, they are considered premium filters and will perform well.

Technical Fitment Specification

20 X 1.5mm threads, gasket diameter approximately 2.3 inches, O.D. approx. 2.75 inches, length approximately 2.5 to 3.5 inches.

 

[Dreamster66]

You know I am not sure how many qts it takes as I use gallon containers and never really pay attention to it... It's over 3 though... 3.5 3.6?? I know my SV holds 3.1 though...:whistlin:

I will warn you against using any oils that say "energy conserving" on it... They limit the amount of shear additives in it. A motorcycle isn't a car. The transmission whips the schitt out of the oil and needs more shear additives in it.

Many people use Shell Rotella T 15W40 and love it... I am using it without any issues.
It is designed for diesels and isn't lacking the additives that car oil is.


That being said, I am using a Mobile 1 oil filter on mine.:thumbs up:

has anyone else used Shell Rotella T 15W40 ?
I work at walmart so It'll be cheaper to buy it......any side effects?

 

[4gasem]

What Vmax oil should I use?
by Doug Nelson, Jun. '98

Hey guys lets see if I can help you out a little.​

Remember one thing, oil is like religion everyone has there preference and thats good. Let me give you mine. I stopped using automotive oils for most if not all do not have the high pressure shear additives that motor cycle oils do because general automobiles do not have gears within the engine where the automotive engine oil is. Shear additives is what keeps the gears and other like parts that come in direct contact with each other from wearing excessively. Motor cycle oils have other additives that the automotive oils do not. The question about full synthetics verses none synthetics or semi synthetics. First let me say that after talking to many oil system engineers that make oils for Honda, Yamaha etc. They stated that they would not recommend automotive oils in motor cycles for the reasons I just discussed. They also went on to explain that semi synthetics oils seem to perform better in motor cycles than full synthetics due to the wear characteristics. After my extensive research with different types of oils I decided to use Honda semi synthetic racing oils. They are expensive but when it comes down to it its worth ever penny to me. I can tell you that when I used mobile one, other synthetic automotive oils that when I rebuilt the engine I had to change allot of internal parts like the gears, due to extensive contact wear. The bearings looked terrible, severally worn past the plating. After that rebuilt I starting using (my preference), semi synthetics, Honda racing oil. After my rebuilt I extremely abused my engine, over horse power applications such as 75% nitromethane 25% alcohol, high NOS usage etc. The last time I rebuilt the engine I can tell you there was a day and night difference in shear wear and associated close tolerance parts wear. My gears looked great as far as shear wear. The bearings looked like new, the cylinder walls and all other internal parts looked real good. I sent my blower off to the blower company for inspection. My blower was drained for 4 months prior to shipping. The person that inspected my blower ask personally what type of oil I was using. I asked why and he said he has never seen oil adhere to parts like this oil did. He said that all internal parts still had an oil film on them when usually oil would have been long gone by that time, this was the same for my engine internal parts. Now as far as oil types viscosity's, this will depend on your filtering system, clearances the engine was built to etc. The Yamaha service manual is your best guide for specific oil grades for stock engines. Remember motor cycle companies invested millions in research to see what will work the best in there engines. This is usually the best place to start.​

Now what I have just told you is what I have come up with through extensive research. These are my gathered facts. You will decide to use this information, or as with religion you can go your own way. But I hope this helped you out. If some one else has engineering data or reports on this specific area then please feel free to add to my letter.​

Motorcycle Motor Oil

by Mike Guillory, June 2002


Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local automotive supply store, which is a still a good option. This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice.
Price of Motor Oil
So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.

The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:

Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation." That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement. ​

The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous
It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.
However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.
NEW Motorcycle Oils
Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops.
Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.
Energy-Conserving Oils
Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.
It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.
Synthetic or Conventional
What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.
Real World Test Results
Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.
Frequency Asked Questions

1. What is a reasonable oil-change interval?
   
   Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.
2. Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?
   
   Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.
3. What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?
   
   Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.
4. Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?
   
   Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.
5. What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?
   
   That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any.

Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.
Addendum
In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications.
Heavy-Duty Oils
My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.

1. Castrol RX Super 15w40
2. Chevron Delo 400 15w40
3. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
4. Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
5. Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
6. Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
7. SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
8. Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
9. Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40

Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection
For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." In May and June of 2002 some emails have gone around about Mobil One 15w50 no longer being suitable for use in motorcycles. As far as I have been able to investigate, that is a false concern. I was assured by Mobil directly that Mobil One SuperSyn remains a suitable oil for motorcycle use, although they naturally recommend their motorcycle Mobil one.
In contrast to that, recently Castrol has been recommending that their 5w50 Syntec is NOT appropriate for motorcycle use because of additional levels of friction modifiers.
A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. At least one motorcyclist has reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T. I haven't tried it yet.
Delvac One would be one of my highest recommendations but I don't know where to buy it. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, I suggest trying to get some if you want a superior oil.
There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.
Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.
I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.
A Note on Warranties
Since it is generally accepted within the industry that current classifications also meet all older ones, there can legally be no warranty issue. In fact, some oils actually say on the package "SG" in addition to SH , SJ and SL. However, if any of the very newest motorcycles specify oil meeting the new JASO, or other motorcycle-specific oil specifications, and no reference to "SG" or similar automotive specs, then you may have a potential warranty issue so behave accordingly.
And finally, it is gratifying to have received so many emails the past three (3) years from motorcyclists finding this oil and oil filter information useful to them. Keep them coming. I am happy to help, and I plan further updates as things change significantly.
The author is a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company, after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. He and his wife both ride.

 

[TheFleshRocket]

Keep in mind that he said that this is his FIRST oil change. Assuming it's a new bike and he's following the manufacturer's 600-mile first-change interval, then it's too early to put synthetic oil into the engine. 1500-2000 miles is a commonly accepted point for switching to synthetics. The reason being that synthetics are generally thought of as being "too slippery" and preventing proper break-in.

A 10W40 non-synthetic car oil is fine for the break-in period, as it is not energy conservinc and does not have the friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage.

When breaking in my bikes, I follow the Mototune method and do a set of dyno runs. Then, with ~20 miles on the clock, I change the oil with some 10W40 car oil. At 600 miles, the oil gets changed again, and then at 1500-2000 miles, I dump the car oil and switch to Mobil1 15W50.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[4gasem]

Keep in mind that he said that this is his FIRST oil change. Assuming it's a new bike and he's following the manufacturer's 600-mile first-change interval, then it's too early to put synthetic oil into the engine. 1500-2000 miles is a commonly accepted point for switching to synthetics. The reason being that synthetics are generally thought of as being "too slippery" and preventing proper break-in.

A 10W40 non-synthetic car oil is fine for the break-in period, as it is not energy conservinc and does not have the friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage.

When breaking in my bikes, I follow the Mototune method and do a set of dyno runs. Then, with ~20 miles on the clock, I change the oil with some 10W40 car oil. At 600 miles, the oil gets changed again, and then at 1500-2000 miles, I dump the car oil and switch to Mobil1 15W50.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have changed the oil in the Vmax some 5 or more times and it has 1300 miles on it...:whistlin:

Moto Tune all the way too... 26 miles on it and it was changed... Then I dropped the pan at 150 and changed it while I was in there... Then at 600 I believe and again at 900 or 1000 and again at just over 1200...

 

[6spdbbody]

It's actually just my first oil change on the bike, it actually has close to 9000 miles on it. And another quick question, i've got some ticking coming from the valves, so i'm pretty sure they're needing some adjustment, how hard is it to do? should i attempt or just take it to a non-dealer motorcycle mechanic (My dad takes his there, he's way cheaper than the dealer)

 

[4gasem]

It's actually just my first oil change on the bike, it actually has close to 9000 miles on it. And another quick question, i've got some ticking coming from the valves, so i'm pretty sure they're needing some adjustment, how hard is it to do? should i attempt or just take it to a non-dealer motorcycle mechanic (My dad takes his there, he's way cheaper than the dealer)

If you can trust him and don't want to do it yourself then I would take it there...

 

[TheFleshRocket]

I have changed the oil in the Vmax some 5 or more times and it has 1300 miles on it...:whistlin:
Moto Tune all the way too... 26 miles on it and it was changed... Then I dropped the pan at 150 and changed it while I was in there... Then at 600 I believe and again at 900 or 1000 and again at just over 1200...

Do you really think it's necessary to change it that many times?

 

[4gasem]

Do you really think it's necessary to change it that many times?

Some how missed this quote...:confused2:

Shell Rotella T is cheap as chips and I changed the filter every other time during break-in so it really wasn't that expensive overall...

I can buy everything at Auto-Zone so it is easy too...

 

[113s&s]

hello all , 4.02 quarts if filter is changed. best to you all . buckridge

my 06 calls for 4.02 last two oil changes with new filter just poured the gallon in 4 quarts....with bike upright and running and high revs the oil is still covering 90 % of the window...its not between the lines its right at the top line.....think 4 qts is a little too much...manual says 4 qts with new filter....anyone have ant thoughts on this...is the manual wrong

 

[maleko89]

The only time you'll get four is when it's new. It's impossible to get all the oil out during oil changes. Some stays in the oil passages, tranny, clutch, etc. I usually get a bit more than 3 1/4 quarts or so. I add a bit after testing for leaks since the oil filter takes some.

Mark
#1098

 

[113s&s]

just hope its not too full so far so good,,,next change ill go with 3 1/2 qts and give it a check

 

[maleko89]

As long as oil isn't going up into the airbox you should be okay. You could always drain a bit.

Mark
#1098

 

[113s&s]

As long as oil isn't going up into the airbox you should be okay. You could always drain a bit.

Mark
#1098

thanks thats what i was looking for air box dry..alll seems nornal and running like a beast.....