HOW TO: Remove/Inspect/Replace your Starter Clutch

[fmcandrew]

Ok...yesterday I pulled my flywheel (was getting the dreaded bag of marbles syndrome when firing up the beast) and I want to share what I did as it took me all of 20min (complete with zip ties). Now I have a cheap-*** Husky compressor and impact gun...so no special tools...except...

I ponied up for the PWC flywheel puller: They claim it will come off 1st or 2nd try...and they are correct. It's obiously due to the machined cones that just don't stretch like a bolt would...hard to see in the pic, but they're there...

Also, read many horor stories about the thing popping off and hitting the floor...easy fix...just add some rope...

And vola! The assembly popped, but the rope did its job!

Now...as you can see the bolts were pean'd, so was curious what the issue really was...

Next 2 pics show the issue - even though pean'd, these bolts were LOOSE!!

An easy 1/16th of movement (one pic to another) - Now the pean probably kept the bolts in, but I could turn them by hand...


Next steps: Chatted with Sean to get his opinion on the clutch components and he felt mine were good enough to reinstall. I mentioned tack welding the bolts to the flywheel...Sean said that is what PWC does in lue of flywheel modification (Sean's solution) and that I needed new bolts.

So...new bolts, red locktight, and tack welding...

Anything I might have missed? Really want this to be a one-time fix!

 

[ItsDuckie]

Ok guys. New here and to the VMAX. Only my second bike. Upgraded from an 86 rebel 250. I have an 88 that I bought from my uncle and I am having a difficult time with starting. I know the starter was replaced recently and new battery. As well as a lot of other things fixed on the bike when my uncle had it. Anyway, when I try to start it makes a strange sound. I am suspecting it is the starter clutch being bad. I can confirm that if I remove all the plugs it rolls through doesn't make the sound. But if I put in even one plug it starts making the sound. Maybe it could be the starter(something internal?). I kinda hope it is the starter since that would be easier to replace. But any ideas?

Here is a video of said issue

http://youtu.be/kfn7lLSln0M

 

[egobbo]

Excellent write up! Quick question though, I used an automotive balancer type puller.i hit it with the impact gun and it started walking the magnets out of the flywheel.... Please tell me I'm ok and don't have to drop 600 on a new one

 

[fmcandrew]

ItsDuckie - I listened to your video and didn't at all sound like the starter clutch was even spinning. I'd yank your starter (just above oil filter in front of motor) and have it tested for amp draw. If that checks out and your bike doesn't turn over I'd pull that starter clutch cover and see if it is somehow seized in there...

egobbo - I've read enough posts and seen the cost of the components to know that I wasn't comfortable using a generic puller. I know some have had success...but my luck with such experiments tends to be pathetic. I guess I'd need to see a pic to understand what you mean, but the magnets spin around the copper coil producing a charge...if not aligned I'd guess you'd see weak charging, if any at all...

 

[davidon]

I do NOT recommend tack welding the bolts. PCW did this to mine and when the clutch cracked it was a royal PITA to get those out. I did not do it myself since I had the sprague starter clutch mod done but the guy who did it really was not happy about it.

 

[egobbo]

The stator is mounted to the outside cover they are not magnets. What I'm talking about is the flywheel itself. There's a thin metal ring on the inside. Between that and the cast iron flywheel are magnets that cause the copper coils to generate voltage. They are epoxied in. My problem is that they are actually moving outward. Can they be re epoxied in? Has anyone else experienced this?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[alorio1]

I understand what you are describing, but I have never heard of this or seen it posted that I can recall.....why don't you post some pics of this maybe someone will chime in on your issue..........

 

[egobbo]

I definitely will, bike Is at my shop and it's mothers day lol

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[eggohead]

doing the fix this weekend. Question Sean mentions pinging the bolt head, I read the PCW Spot welds them in place which is better? I want it last for a little bit...lol

 

[fmcandrew]

Well...mine were pean'd and they got loose...not the funnest job in the word, so I figured I'd spot weld and if it fails again go down the much more expensive route of a different setup...

 

[egobbo]

The flywheel is cast iron I believe. Very difficult to weld cast

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[alorio1]

You spot weld the end of the bolt, which makes it larger and harder for the bolt to loosen or back out. I believe some good peening of the bolt will keep it tight for years. Welding the end of bolt will cause pain and grief if you ever have to remove the cage that holds the rollers and springs. I personally would not weld. just my .02 cents thoughts........

 

[alorio1]

Make sure you have inspected the cage very carefully for hair line cracks. The cage is notorious for cracking and sometimes can't be seen with the naked eye. Get a magnifying glass and look her over good before reassembling.

 

[eggohead]

I have a good friend that is a welder/ instructor with C&E machine. Most work like that is very easy. Think we are going to do the Clutch cover this winter. If it works correctly I will get most of them.. I did find a site on how to...


http://www.saarloos.net/yamaha-vmax-mainmenu-65/clear-clutch-cover-mainmenu-

 

[fmcandrew]

The local hardware replacement bolts are a bit longer than the stockers (you should replace the bolts), so welding the bolt end was very easy. I also red locktight & tightened with my electric impact gun...hoping for the best, but always planning for the worst...

 

[eggohead]

The local hardware replacement bolts are a bit longer than the stockers (you should replace the bolts), so welding the bolt end was very easy. I also red locktight & tightened with my electric impact gun...hoping for the best, but always planning for the worst...

this is what I had been thinking of 1st. But the guy I had do it before, I have no faith in how he did repair.... If I could remember the shop in El Paso I wouldn't recommend him to anyone. But he stated to me he would never work on another Vmax.. So kinda praying things still look ok once I open the cover....

 

[eggohead]

I got sick of waiting for the 3 bolts to come in today. So I went to Fastenal and found some that are better and cheaper than the dealership. M8-1.24X14 Part # 2139649 like $5 for 5 of them in a package. Talked to one of the mechanics at the dealership to make sure they would work, he said they are better and a better price also. The service department was thinking of going there to get them now also....

 

[eggohead]

Don't you hate when you second guess some of the work you did? I did my starter clutch yesterday. I didn't mark my gears prior to disassembly either. But I did try to make sure they lined up correctly when Installing them. I read the "Attach the small gears like the picture. Note that the smallest gear has a lip on one side. That lip faces out", but didn't notice this in the reading until I had reinstalled it last night. Question is if it is flush with the gear it meshs with is that correct? Or sould I pull it back on an verify they are in correctly. The good new is if it's the second choice I haven't yet filled it with oil due to letting the thread lock dry and replacing the starter also.:confused2::ummm:

 

[eggohead]

The local hardware replacement bolts are a bit longer than the stockers (you should replace the bolts), so welding the bolt end was very easy. I also red locktight & tightened with my electric impact gun...hoping for the best, but always planning for the worst...

THe ones I ended up getting at Fastenal are exact matches as the ones Yamaha sold me minuse price... 3 for $18 or 5 for $5.... M8-1.24X14 Part # 2139649

 

[train460]

THe ones I ended up getting at Fastenal are exact matches as the ones Yamaha sold me minuse price... 3 for $18 or 5 for $5.... M8-1.24X14 Part # 2139649

Quick question. The bolts you got from fasternal being the same as from the dealer. Is that good or bad? same crappy quality or better?
Michael