How to Remove the Rear Wheel

[bulldog1100]

really excellent pictures thank you much appreciated

 

[rollin thunder]

This will be part of a mini series on removing the rear wheel, exhaust and swingarm, replacing some bearings, swapping on a Venture diff, and changing the tire. First up is just pulling the rear wheel.

Ok, put it on the centerstand, and brace the front if possible:

Next, pull the cotter pin on the left side of the rear wheel going through the axle shaft:

Loosen up that big nut:

Move over to the right side and loosen up the pinch bolt:

Now, you do not need to remove the shocks in order to remove the wheel, but I will be removing them as I will be pulling the swingarm later. They are easy to remove however, and the extra room is always welcome. Remove the bolt holding the top of the shocks in place:

Remove the bolt holding the bottom of the shocks in place:

Lift the rear tire slightly with your foot or other hand, wiggle the top of the shock off its stud and swing down, then pull the shock off. Repeat on other side:

Loosen these two bolts holding the rear brake caliper to the bracket:

Then pull the cotter pin on the brake arm where it is attached to the caliper bracket and remove the bolt:

Lift the brake arm up out of the way:

Remove the bolts on the caliper and lift the caliper off of the disc:

I like to bungy the caliper out of the way onto my peg so I don't kick it around or bang up the brake hose:

Ok, now you look like this:

Finish pulling the nut and washer off the axle shaft on the left side:

Now, I sit on the ground behind the tire and wedge my foot under the tire to lift it slightly, then just tap the axle shaft with the palm of my left hand:

With my foot still holding up the tire, I pull the axle out the rest of the way:

And then I reassemble everything as it was on the bike, on the shaft so I remember:

The tire will most likely still be suspended there on the differential. Just gently lift the wheel and wiggle to the right and it will slide out:

Oh, and don't forget to take off your licence plate! I always bend mine up trying to jimmy the tire off!:

And there you have it, now hopefully, the stealership won't charge you so much to change the tire!

do you lose any gear lube out of the back?.

 

[bikedave99]

Nope!

 

[rollin thunder]

Thanks!.I have two tires to replace real soon.

 

[Miles Long]

Excellent instructions and photos.
Two things to add....
- for those of you with bikes using the stock exhaust with shorter than OEM (13") shocks....you will have to remove the shocks (allowing the swingarm to drop down) in order to remove the axle.
I just installed 12" shocks, this is the case. There MAY be just enough room if using 121/2" shocks.
Removing the shocks may not be a big deal to most folks, but as for myself, I consider this a total pain in the ass. I plan to purposely put an indent (similar to the centerstand foot lever indent), on the underside of the right hand exhaust can. This will not be seen when the bike is upright. I'm waiting to get a donor can from a friend, so I can "practice" first, using a jury-rigged clamping device.
- sometimes when re-installing the wheel, it's difficult to engage the rear splines into the final drive, with all components in place. I discovered a much easier way. Just line up and install the wheel and axle without the caliper mount and washer initially. This gives you much more room to wiggle the wheel around to engage the splines. Putting the bike in gear makes it even easier, so that the final drive isn't moving.
After engaging, carefully remove the axle, and the wheel will stay hanging on the final drive. Then once again slip in the axle, this time with the caliper mount and washer in place. Works like a charm!
Cheers, y'all!

 

[rollin thunder]

tOOK BOTH FRONT AND BACK OFF IN NO TIME .Thanks for the pics.

 

[VMax-Mike]

I have a 170 80 15 and i couldent get the tire out without removing the rear fender so this time i cut a 2" x12"x'8 in half and rolled the rear tire on one half so centerstand would go down and put the centerstand on the other half and the rear tire cleared without taking anything apart.

 

[lawman504]

Thanks Dave!! Awesome post. Will be taking mine off very soon. I need a tire and all shops charge an arm and a leg to remove the wheel from the bike. This will save me some money....and saving money makes George a happy man.

 

[rollin thunder]

Put myfront and back tires back on today and had to take another look back here to make sure I put it all together right.This site can give a person courage to do things he normally he would not do ,and I thank everyone very much for the great information.I put a ufo front fork brace yestarday and am getting a new oil pressure gage on the way.Uh oh I think I have been bit by some V Max bug .

 

[Traumahawk]

Uh oh I think I have been bit by some V Max bug .

LOL....you just got bit by the Mod Monkey...

 

[lawman504]

LOL....you just got bit by the Mod Monkey...

:cheers:

 

[SFCMcGan]

Awesome tutorial!

 

[DigitalArts]

Thanks! Nice pictures

 

[Redbone]

If you have a non stock setup you more than likely will have to remove the pumpkin (and drive shaft too!) in order to slide your 200 wide tire out of the swingarm. Another thing to consider when modifying your Vmax.

 

[Traumahawk]

If you have a non stock setup you more than likely will have to remove the pumpkin (and drive shaft too!) in order to slide your 200 wide tire out of the swingarm. Another thing to consider when modifying your Vmax.

I don't know if this would work with a 200....but it did work with my 180 and RC wheel.
I could figure out how to get the wheel between the frame on the right side....and the pumpkin on the left...so using a motorcycle lift I lifted the bike up into the air as high as I could. I took the valve core out of the tire and I rolled the tire under the bike. I also sprayed WD 40 on the tire and lowered the bike down onto the tire. I also used a screw driver to help squeeze the tire between the frame. I managed to get the tire mounted back on the splines and tightened down in 30 mins. I believe that SDT354 used this trick as well....and commented on how well it worked.

 

[[email protected]]

Odd, I'm able to squeeze my 180 in without any drama. Yes, it's very tight but it slides in there. It does rub again the plastic diff shield but not enough to worry about it. I'm running a sport tec M3. Maybe that makes a difference

 

[Traumahawk]

Odd, I'm able to squeeze my 180 in without any drama. Yes, it's very tight but it slides in there. It does rub again the plastic diff shield but not enough to worry about it. I'm running a sport tec M3. Maybe that makes a difference

Maybe. Mine is the Avon venom R. My next tire will be the Shinko stealth.

 

[Redbone]

Odd, I'm able to squeeze my 180 in without any drama. Yes, it's very tight but it slides in there. It does rub again the plastic diff shield but not enough to worry about it. I'm running a sport tec M3. Maybe that makes a difference

I have the Otec diff shields and there is no way with my shinko verge 200/50-18 tire. I haven't tried airing down but pretty sure that wouldn't help. I have had it off a few times now and I'm pretty good at poking the driveshaft back in place now.

 

[[email protected]]

I avoid drive shaft removal at all costs. I do OK if the extension is on and I only have to install the drive shaft. but, if I have to install the drive shaft and extension, I can never get it in there. I end up having to take the swing arm off to get the whole drive shaft and extension back in

 

[davesax36]

I can get my 190/50/17 in by loosening the diff nuts, but it still needs soap to squeak by. I'll be going 180 when this wears out. Also, I'm trying not take that stuff off. What a pain.

I know the goldwing guys use plastic bags as "lubricant" during wheel installs. Don't know if that would help.