I covered half of the y cover and it runs !

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Traumahawk

Mine has the same symptoms.
It will not run "with power" unless I cover 1 /2 of each air intake on the Y. (same thing as covering one full intake).

I cannot begin to list the things I have done, trying to resolve this issue.

If you can name it, I've have done it.

If you can think of something in your past experiences that might shed some light on this, that would be AWESOME!!

Well did some searching....and think I found your issue....are you still running the FP needles and floats at 17mm?

Even with a kerker 4-1, (I still had the stock airbox) they were way too aggressive. Even with 150 jets...and 1st clip from the blunt end, I was dipping down to 9.8-9.9 A/F when I was at 40 mph in 5th gear, and would suddenly go to full throttle.

I had good luck with stage 1 needles 2nd clip from the blunt end with the above set up. When I would go to full throttle the A/F would drop to 11.0 and then climb.
 
Is the y drilled? One of mine was. What do the plugs look like?
Nope - Not drilled.
What are yalls float levels like? If the floats are off it will make too lean or too rich? So if its lean....theoretically you would have to decrease the amount of air as well.
17mm
I would have skipped the peashooter and gone straight for the shotgun, follow intructions for this cleaning method and see how it turns out.....................................Tom.
- After cleaning it 4 times with the pea shooter and shotgun, I ran all parts though Ultra Sonic cleaning twice. 1st time, it removed things that the peashooter and shotgun missed - Fluid was dark as mud when complete. 2nd time, hardly any foreign matter was seen in the cleaning fluid. Coated the inside of my gas take to stop ANY rust build-up from ethanol drawing in water. Broke down the fuel pump, cleaned and tested - Strong fuel flow when energized. (loud SOB in the house ;-) ). Now carbs looks like only water was ran in them. Absolutely spotless.
 
What do the plugs look like?
Id have to dig up my previous post on the pic with the plugs.. Since the problem still exsist, the older pick should be fine for reading the plugs.
 
I might have to try those.. Since I might change the mufflers later I'll hold on to the ones I have and just pick up a set of stage 1 or stocks.
Thanks for the tip..

Now to dig up some at a good price.
 
I would check with Sean. I know that he has several sets of stage 1's ...and he might have some stock ones as well. The stage 1's WONT give you any hp over stock needles (the restricting factor is the exhaust), but I liked the stage 1's due to adjust-ability factor.

Rich is safe....but lean is fast (hp).
 
I liked the stage 1's due to adjust-ability factor.
Me too..
That's the set I'd be looking for.
The stage 1's WONT give you any hp over stock needles (the restricting factor is the exhaust)
As long an I don't loose HP, that's fine. This bike has strengthened my forearms over the summer, trying to hold on to this *****.:eusa_dance:
I just want a smooth transition from low to wide open throttle.
 
I would say for HP to go with 150's all the way around, float level height between 15 and 16..which I believe is stock. If you go with the stage 1's...2nd clip from the blunt end, and see how that works.
 
I would say for HP to go with 150's all the way around

So you suggest backing down on the mains to 150's.. I have 152.5 all around right now.
I have to look into that.
 
Here is a copy of my dyno run last year at Topeka KS. It was with the stock 152.5's, stock pipes, and slip ons. You can see how rich I was. Sean and Mark both suggested 147.5's. 100% stock bikes run best with with 150's.....but with slip ons you usually drop down another size.
 

Attachments

  • dyno run..pdf
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Sean, do you sell a Stage-1 kit with 150' Mains?
 
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