Integrated CBR LED Tail Light Mounting

[grimmie]

Here's the "hyper-flashing". It really didn't bother me. I was very stoked regardless. :eusa_dance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dct6br4_4Nw

However, I figured it out unk:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuOkifGtqX0

What did you do to fix it?

 

[deekjx]

looks nice

 

[ninjaneer]

What did you do to fix it?

basically load resistors on my front turn signals. the tail light came with some. my fronts only had a positive lead. realized that the flasher wasn't seeing the front signals because there was no current returning, making the flasher think that there was an open on the front signal lines. so i put in some 10 ohmers.

 

[grimmie]

basically load resistors on my front turn signals. the tail light came with some. my fronts only had a positive lead. realized that the flasher wasn't seeing the front signals because there was no current returning, making the flasher think that there was an open on the front signal lines. so i put in some 10 ohmers.

I just got my taillight today and I didn't get any resistors with it. I got a wiring harness with it, is that what you're talking about?

As far as the resistors, you just jumped from the front turn signal hot wires to ground or put the resistor in line with the hot wires?

 

[ninjaneer]

I just got my taillight today and I didn't get any resistors with it. I got a wiring harness with it, is that what you're talking about?

without seeing what you are talking about, i'm gonna have to say "yes" if that wiring harness has some wires sticking out of a heatshrinked "block" like in Jediael's first post.

that heatshrinked block are the resistors.

As far as the resistors, you just jumped from the front turn signal hot wires to ground or put the resistor in line with the hot wires?

I attached one end of the resistor to the signal's positive lead and attached the other end of the resistor to ground. this puts a load on the "turn signal" wire.

just fyi, putting the resistor inline (splicing in the resistor) won't solve the problem. without the "turn signal" wire attached to Ground with a load, no current will flow and the flasher will only "see" an open circuit on that wire. this is what causes the "hyperflashing" problem. the "hyperflashing" was yamaha's way of telling you that you have a burnt out bulb in one of your turn signals. when a bulb is burnt out, the filament is broken creating a situation just like in my case with the aftermarket front turn signals of only having a positive lead--there is no connection to Ground.

now in the case of hyperflashing occurring when you have LEDs creating a load between the positive feed and ground, the LED light just doesn't provide the needed amount of resistance (or load) that the flasher requires in order to determine that a load is present. as such it thinks that there is no load and hyperflashes.

sorry if i was beating the dead horse, or preaching to the choir. if so, then perhaps my dissertation will aid the others with the need/want to know.

 

[smithben1983]

without seeing what you are talking about, i'm gonna have to say "yes" if that wiring harness has some wires sticking out of a heatshrinked "block" like in Jediael's first post.

that heatshrinked block are the resistors.

I attached one end of the resistor to the signal's positive lead and attached the other end of the resistor to ground. this puts a load on the "turn signal" wire.

just fyi, putting the resistor inline (splicing in the resistor) won't solve the problem. without the "turn signal" wire attached to Ground with a load, no current will flow and the flasher will only "see" an open circuit on that wire. this is what causes the "hyperflashing" problem. the "hyperflashing" was yamaha's way of telling you that you have a burnt out bulb in one of your turn signals. when a bulb is burnt out, the filament is broken creating a situation just like in my case with the aftermarket front turn signals of only having a positive lead--there is no connection to Ground.

now in the case of hyperflashing occurring when you have LEDs creating a load between the positive feed and ground, the LED light just doesn't provide the needed amount of resistance (or load) that the flasher requires in order to determine that a load is present. as such it thinks that there is no load and hyperflashes.

sorry if i was beating the dead horse, or preaching to the choir. if so, then perhaps my dissertation will aid the others with the need/want to know.

okay sorry to be this guy but I am lost with all this I got my light today and am installing it now. I use the heat shirked block that came with it for the light i just got right? my front lights are the cheapy ones shawn sells, non-LED, will I be needing resistors? Before I started this today my blinkers blinked fast anyways. I was under standing that they did that cause I didn't have front running lights now. I have a multi metter thingy but I haven't done much with it and electric stuff is very new to me and am just starting to get involved with it.

 

[ninjaneer]

okay sorry to be this guy but I am lost with all this I got my light today and am installing it now. I use the heat shirked block that came with it for the light i just got right? my front lights are the cheapy ones shawn sells, non-LED, will I be needing resistors? Before I started this today my blinkers blinked fast anyways. I was under standing that they did that cause I didn't have front running lights now. I have a multi metter thingy but I haven't done much with it and electric stuff is very new to me and am just starting to get involved with it.

Yes I recommended using the resistor block that cmae with the taillight. as for the front signals, how many wires do they have?

regards from my tapatalking android...

 

[smithben1983]

they have 2 wires

 

[ninjaneer]

hmmm, well then, i say if your signals were hyperflashing before this mod, then let's get that tail light on first (with the load resistors) and fix your hyperflashing in another thread.

 

[smithben1983]

huh well.. this is where I am, I got the light in the breaking and running light work and I just bought.. well hell looks like I bought 1 omh 10w , oops, okay so im gonna head back quick and get 10 omhers. How many watts? I wasnt getting any blinking in the rear even when the front where blinking.

 

[ninjaneer]

Do you have the resistor block in like this? Strange that you don't have any turn signals at all in the rear

regards from my tapatalking android...

 

[smithben1983]

yeah I got it in there. it would blink at times like right at the start. what watt restorers should I get for the front?

 

[ninjaneer]

yeah I got it in there. it would blink at times like right at the start. what watt restorers should I get for the front?

10 watts, but they get warm. I think 25 watts would be better

regards from my tapatalking android...

 

[Buster Hymen]

WOW!! This write up is so great and very detailed that I nominated and awarded Jediael the Award of Posting Excellence !! Well done! :clapping:

 

[grimmie]

Corey (Max em) & I installed the CBR tail light on my Max. I'm real happy with it. We shot some photos as we went along. Not great shots but you get the picture (pun intended)......

Fender removed and upside down. Pre mod

Plastic tabs removed.

Lined the light up where we wanted it and marked it with a sharpie.

Ended up being about an inch from the inside edge.

Once the light placement was marked, we marked the metal fender support.

Used tape to get a straight line.

Marked the cut line with a sharpie.

Cut it off with a "Buckeye" cutoff air tool.

Broke some steel mounting tabs and welded them in place.

Another view of the mounting tabs

Fender support in place on the fender

Holes drilled and the light in place

Another view of the light in place. Notice the top corners of the tabs being marked with a sharpie. These are the cut marks so they won't be seen from the rear.

Corners of the tabs removed

Sanded all sharp edges

Light installed.

I'll get a couple of finished pics up asap, and a video as well. I really like the looks. It looks like it was made for this fender.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

Great write up, Grimmie! This mod keeps evolving with each installation, the tabs you guys added are a great idea!

 

[bud7680]

I had the same concern with the illumination. I'm gonna try a couple of those led tag bolts on the bottom of the plate.

regards from my tapatalking android...

Saw this at Iron Pony yesterday---42$ though!

LED Motorcycle Light Bars - Stoppers [SIZE=+1]LED Motorcycle Light Bar with Turn Signals [/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]CLEAR LENS ONLY [/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]Versa-Light LED 2nd Brake Light with Turn Signals by GYB Motorcycle Safety Products
**New** "All In One" Turn Signal, Running Light, and Brake Light Function
This light uses high intensity LEDs and integrates a brake light, a running light, and turn signals into one sleek small motorcycle light bar.

Add safety and style to your motorcycle with this ultra-bright LED Brake Light Bar.
Clear lens with RED running/brake light and AMBER turn signals

Features:
- 12 VDC operation
- 25 Super bright LED's in total
- Center 15 LEDs function as 1/2 intensity running light & full intensity brake light
- Mounts to top or bottom license plate screws. Mounting hardware included.
- ABS Plastic construction
- Fits all standard 4"x7" license plate bolt patterns
- 5 wire hook up. Black is grnd, Red is brake, White is running, Yellow & Orange are turns
- Easily attaches to bottom 2 mounting screws of license plate (included).

Measures:
7.00" long x .75" wide x .75" deep

** Not DOT approved. This unit is not designed to be used as the only taillight or turn signals. It is designed as an extra light to your existing brake light and turn signals.

1 year manufacturers warranty
[/SIZE]
Item No.ItemAmountQty.[SIZE=-1]20-3633[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]LED Motorcycle Light Bar with Turn Signals[/SIZE]

 

[ninjaneer]

Saw this at Iron Pony yesterday---42$ though!

thanks for the thought and links, but for 1/5 of the cost, i think these will do just fine.

 

[smithben1983]

well not sure what I am doing wrong here. today I went and got 10omh 10 amp(didn't have 25 amp at radio shack) for the front and even rehooked up the stock blinkers in the front and I am not getting blinking in the rear. any ideas?

P.S. well once a gain another FML moment. So I took it all apart again and everything was right so than I thought maybe they have a lose wire in there resistor pack, everything looked fine. Than it hit me... maybe I have to have the bike running.. well what do you know.. now it works... damn you!!!! not sure who I am damn here but damn you none the less!

most likely its me I damn.. not sure lol

 

[ninjaneer]

so did you get it working, smitty?