Is this quick for 1st gen

[Mac Max]

Took my bike to the strip last night and was able to run a best of 6.92 @ 99.71 in the 1/8 mile with a 1.56 60ft. I was wondering if this would be considered pretty good. I've had the bike a few months and as far as I can tell the only performance mods are Vgas carb setup and UFO 4into2 exhaust. It's a 1985 model and by the numbers on the case its the original engine or at least an 85 model. Also this was accomplished with front end strapped and 17" rear radial. I geuss I should also add my weight is about 250.

 

[marsmax85]

yes but other will chime in

 

[VMAXer]

Welcome to the forum. By chance can you share a photo of your bike?

 

[Mac Max]

 

[Fire-medic]

You should be well under 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile if you ran it that far. Bike looks good, it has 'one of everything.' Do you know if the engine has had internal work? The radials should be able to make it handle much-better in the curves, and more stable at triple-digit speeds.

You might consider putting another light in-place of the rear grab bar red reflector, which apparently has been removed. It looks like there might be something there now, since it's all flat black, it's hard to see if there is a light fixture there now. Anything you can do to make your bike more-visible from any point is worth the effort/expense. While the replacement rear taillight oval is 'cool,' adding additional lumens to your view presented to others on the roadway just might make an inattentive, texting/talking on their cell driver, realize that you're in-front of them, and they're about to run you over, if they don't get on the brakes NOW!

https://www.customdynamics.com/?gcl...V4v_K9ES3OSe-PAcee9gDhOMoFsiFxFIaAmMOEALw_wcB
I have a license plate light which has a horizontal row of red LED's above and below the license plate, and amber vertical columns on either side of the license plate, the latter are functional as turn signals, and the former are both running lights and brake lights. It makes a considerable difference in my 'light signature.'

You might take a look at your front calipers and see what composition pads you have. The single opposed calipers/pads used from '85-'92 need help. The cheapest way to do that is to use HH pad composition. Honestly, I'd swap over the front end to a 1993+ 43 mm from your 40 mm. Your rotors will go from 282 mm to 298 mm if you do that, and you also get 4-piston opposed calipers. Don't forget the HH caliper pads. Add stainless steel brake lines, and you have made a significant upgrade in your bike's handling. Leave the OEM early model stored for if/when you sell the bike. The RICOR or Progressive Suspension (PS) cartridge emulators assume damping duties in-place of the OEM slider damping rods, and are adjustable. Then you have the PS front fork springs, another supplier is Race Tech, theirs are sized according to your weight and use. The PS is more of a 'one size fits all,' but many riders use 'em and like 'em.

Sean Morley offers a single side large disc/triple opposed piston caliper for the '85-'92 front end.

Given the $$$$ accessories on the bike now, it's very possible some of that front end work has already been installed.

 

[Mac Max]

You should be well under 11 seconds in the 1/4 mile if you ran it that far.

I've only ran it on the 1/8 so far. Very few 1/4 mile tracks in my area.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Not a bad pass at all and a nice 60 ft

 

[one2dmax]

Among the best for 60' times for sure. Well into the 10's. Nice pass and far better then the average rider will get.

 

[Mac Max]

Thanks! I was averaging mid 1.60's leaving at around 5k then due to taking the scoops of trying to diagnose an issue with the shift light I happened to think and check if the slides where opening fully and found them to only be opening around 80%. After correcting the issue I took it for a test ride and thought "hot dog" it'll be in the 6's for sure now because I had already ran a 7.06. Well it was easier said than done as it had a bog leaving at 5k, I am now up to leaving between 6300 and 6500...lol. Starting to have some concerns about the drive shaft and diff as well as transmission. But man it sure is a whole lot of fun. What do you guys think, will it hold up to that kind of abuse? Not that I don't expect to break stuff but just want to be prepared. Also wouldn't mind trying some nitrous but some of the things I have read of the transmission and drive line make me think breakage is a sure bet if I go that route.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Final drives are actually pretty tough as far as the gears go. I could see you breaking a driveshaft eventually . I have broke a few usually on the 1-2 shift . I think the transmissions are a lot about how people shift. I bought one with 6 000 miles on it and it spent lots of time on the strip and still shifted perfectly when I sold it with right at a 100,000 on it . On another note I have also repaired one with only 6 000 miles on it.