milage pb after jet kit stage 1

[Diablotin]

so I guess no more choice than openning the carb very soon with the mechanic.
Just to make sure I don't forget anything, what we have to do:
- setting the float to 17mm
- keeping the DJ 160 (until I get the Mikuni 147.5)
- put back the clip needle back to #3 and going as lean as I can
- setting up the A/F starting at 2.5 turns

My last question is if I should keep the DJ needle or not.
What will it change ?

I notice better throttle response with the DJ springs, I guess I should keep those.


About the 147.5, will it change something on the top end ?

Did I forget something?
Hope not since I cannot remove the carbs, hard to find help here

 

[gamorg02]

does ur mechanic have an a/f meter?

 

[Diablotin]

does ur mechanic have an a/f meter?

almost sure he doesn't.

 

[Diablotin]

so I guess no more choice than openning the carb very soon with the mechanic.
Just to make sure I don't forget anything, what we have to do:
- setting the float to 17mm
- keeping the DJ 160 (until I get the Mikuni 147.5)
- put back the clip needle back to #3 and going as lean as I can
- setting up the A/F starting at 2.5 turns

My last question is if I should keep the DJ needle or not.
What will it change ?

I notice better throttle response with the DJ springs, I guess I should keep those.


About the 147.5, will it change something on the top end ?

Did I forget something?
Hope not since I cannot remove the carbs, hard to find help here

from all the thread I have seen, better to go back to stock needles too.
Is the difference that big ?

wow looks like I will spend more time on the carb section.

 

[naughtyG]

I wouldn't really get in there until you get the 147.5 jets, they are mostly what makes your bike run so rich. The clips on the needles change when (according to throttle) it gets to open the main jets fully, so for now you could just set the needles to the highest clip (closest to blunt end) to make it as lean as poss but it won't change your top end as once the needles are completely out you're still getting too much fuel because of the jet sizes.
Nice thing is, you can do the needle clips without removing the carbs - just remove the slides covers to get them out.
Also what do you mean you can't take the carbs off? It's really quite simple, check out the stickies in the carbs section, and to do the main jets you don't need to break the carbs apart.

 

[Diablotin]

Yeah you're totally right.
I'm planning to do that today and will order the 147.5 from Sean.
Will keep the float as if, until I have received the jets.

Make sense to me now.
First time to play with the carbs myself, I guess it's time to get little dirty

 

[Diablotin]

When checking the needles and putting the clip on the last position, I noticed a fuel leak on the right side. Both slide diaphragms have like a tiny tears.

What do you think ?

 

[naughtyG]

Any tears or holes in the diaphragms are bad. If you hold them up to a light or the sun, can you see through those holes? You could try a little vulcanising rubber to fix them (the kind used to repair bicycle tire tube puncture), but it's most likely you'll need to replace those diaphragms for best performance. They are pricey though, and make absolutely sure to only get OEM ones.
Gary @ Mondak has the best price anywhere, I believe they're $54 or $64 each.

About the leaks, clean them up, make sure the rubber tab of each diaphragm is seated in the appropriate groove in the carb body, then tighten the four cover screws to the same torque progressively in a cross pattern - that should make a good seal as long as both surfaces are flat and clean. Be careful not to lose those little o-rings under each cover next to the A/F screw hole, and check that these o-rings are also in good condition.

 

[Diablotin]

I notice trace of fuel even behind, on top of the valve covers.

It might come from the same source, I cleaned it and will check if it continues.

I agree about the diaphragms.
I found on ebay some for an average price between $50 to $80 per piece.

But I found cheap ones here.

But not sure they're the same quality even if the feedback of the buyers is pretty good.

 

[naughtyG]

Honestly I would not try those aftermarket ones. I've looked into replacing just the rubber part and I think it's a bad idea - it would never stay in place properly.

You're better off spending the $100 and getting the right ones from Gary McCoy, IMHO.

 

[Diablotin]

I found his email. Is it still [email protected] ?
Planning to get a set of diaphragm and a carb kits depending on the price.
Just worry to get stucked if ever I see something wrong when I will open the carbs.

 

[naughtyG]

I think that is the right email - check the links section here. I usually call him on 406 433 6635.

There are no carb kits from Yamaha, only on eBay, and they are shit - don't go there.

Your best bet (I know it sucks) is to open your carbs first, make a list of what you actually need and order it all from Gary, then either put it all back together and ride 'as is' until it all arrives or leave it in pieces until you got everything to put it right.

 

[Diablotin]

that's the plan
until then I have plenty of time reading your sticky section in the carb tuning.
Hope I find time to open the carbs quickly since the shipping might take long for me.
You remember the brake switch hahaha

 

[naughtyG]

Yea that's what I was thinking about.. lol