Mod or not to mod

[SpecOps13]

Install the mods and hang on tight. You're gonna gain some serious Horsepower when you're all set up.

 

[Fire-medic]

Thanks, Dave. Is it "Skullduggery" you did the mods to or were they done when you got it? Is there a thread of what you did? I think others would be interested to know too.

 

[srk468]

Just my opinion Fire but you've had the bike for so long that I doubt you'll ever sell it and resale is the only real reason not to mod a Vmax... I started with a clear vision of what I wanted out of my bike and I knew selling it was out of the question because I've always wanted one... My problem is I don't have a mod monkey, he's a full blown king kong killer ape! LOL Right off the bat I was thinking 1500cc chain drive with 13:1 and all this crazy stuff but could only afford the few mods I've done and by doing that I've realized the bike is too much fun to ride and don't wanna go over the top with it.. Bottom line is its your bike and your money so make it how you want it bud!

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

[Fire-medic]

Here's a shot of an USD-front end I am stripping-off this bike, complete w/two front master cyl's, four-piston (twin-opposed) brakes inc. lines; clip-ons, triple trees, front wheel, etc. It's a 1994 ZX750 Kawasaki. The bike is a FL title; frame/swingarm & motor is going to be sold, too, along w/the misc. bodywork & other components. It has a nice curved radiator, I haven't looked at it to see how the feeds for the radiator would align w/the VMax. No carbs or alternator, but nearly-everything else is there. Parts for cheap!

 

[Fire-medic]

"Naughtyg" & "mr. NST" were right, time to mod, because "You'll fall in-love with your bike all-over again!"

Well, I just got back from a spirited ride thru I-95 in the Miami-Ft. Lauderdale (FL) area, and w/what I did so-far, it's so-much better than stock, I am gonna do the stuff I have & evaluate it, 1 @ a time.


The biggest changes I made for handling were:

• stock front wheel & 17" 5.5" Kosman rear wheel got radials;
• Progressive Suspension stock length rear shocks;
• All-Balls steering head bearings;
• I also slipped-on a 43 mm late-model front end in-place of my 41 mm stock front end.

For performance I added a set of Dynojet Stage 7 carbs. I kept VBoost. Mains are 165's, & it starts right-now, and idles-down & off-choke almost immediately.

I have a Ballistic Li-ion battery & a new stator & voltage regulator, which gives me 13.4 volts @ idle, measured @ the battery.

If you have been reading my posts, especially dyno dilemma, you know I had a bad #3 rod big-end problem. Steve at Under Pressure (Dania Beach FL) took care of that and installed an undercut tranny for me. I yanked the engine & re-installed it to save some $$.

Well, I am on the stock clutch @ 23K mi., and I think I am gonna replace the plates w/stock Yamaha. I don't think I am gonna do the 'double D' or go to an aftermarket spring plate. The stock friction plate count is 6, I need to look at the 'search' items to see about removing the 1/2-plate, is it? & adding another friction plate, or whatever the mod is. Or, just replace 6 friction plates and rough the steel ones & re-assemble things. Anyone who wants to weigh-in please do-so on the clutch issue.

So, I was on the interstate this AM, a beautiful crisp fall day in the 60's, & there was an R-1 in the fast lane, so I paced him, having to play 'catch-up' because of him being by me when I got-on the entrance, and we kept a good pace, I think he was surprised the 'old cruiser' was holding-in there as we went down the road. He eventually turned-off in N. Ft. Lauderdale, but I think that he'll probably tell his buds about the 'old bike' that had no-problem staying w/him. :biglaugh: My bike cruised really-well at 6K.

For anyone complaining about VMax handling, if you go to radials & upgrade your suspension (I still have to install my race tech front springs & RICOR valves) my experience is that should make your day much less-eventful as-far as having terrifying weaves as you cane your ride down the road.:rofl_200:

So, yes, I am really-enjoying my ride, and I think the best is yet to-come as I continue to add stuff. I want to live my 'tag-line' to the detriment of other riders around here who are suddenly wondering 'why is that guy on the old bike still w/me,' or 'how could he pass me?' :clapping:

 

[DMAN999]

Well, I am on the stock clutch @ 23K mi., and I think I am gonna replace the plates w/stock Yamaha. I don't think I am gonna do the 'double D' or go to an aftermarket spring plate. The stock friction plate count is 6, I need to look at the 'search' items to see about removing the 1/2-plate, is it? & adding another friction plate, or whatever the mod is. Or, just replace 6 friction plates and rough the steel ones & re-assemble things. Anyone who wants to weigh-in please do-so on the clutch issue.

For a completely Stock Clutch Rebuild you need 7 Friction Plates.
I did the Barnet Clutch Conversion but I left the 1/2 Friction Plate in place.
The 1/2 Friction Plate allows the Clutch to Slip Slightly for Smoother Shifts.

 

[The Beekeeper]

When I do my clutch next spring I plan on installing stock frictions and reuse my steels, I will be installing a PCW spring at that time, slightly better holding power than stock is what I'm looking for...............Tom.

 

[tothemax93]

I went with the PCW clutch kit. came with friction plates, spring and gaskets. Noticeable difference. Grabbed much better and the pull on the clutch lever was a non-issue. I replaced the half plate also. I would do it again.

 

[max_caper]

There are relatively inexpensive mods that can make for a more comfortable ride, a better handling ride, and even a slightly better performing ride but some folks take it to extremes and turn their bikes into unreliable, leaky, smoky, money holes. Before you turn your ride into Frankenstein (strong but not particularly good looking or agile) remember, sometimes the more you add, the more you lose.

Blaine