I was looking a few moments ago at my new (for me) Vmax recently purchased and the penny drop about that the motorcycle had an accident and the chasis is bended. It had to be a frontal one. The previous owner cut the front fender because 'it hit the radiator' and it has a weird folding on a part at the front on the chasis, and the front fork is the one of the later model than it should be. Clearly everything says it had a not very soft hit at the front. But what made me notice it was that the fake air intakes are not fitting correctly and they look weird and out of place. I'm already asking for second-hand clean chasis and thinking about how to pull it out again in place. I'm taking suggestions.
My chasis is bended. Any ideas?
- Thread starter leondante
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Pighuntingpuppy
Well-Known Member
A bent chassis is a bent chassis. Slower cruising speeds I imagine would be, "ok" but not advisable. High speeds with a damaged frame is a hard no from me. Why chance your life to a compromised frame?
Adverse affects would be improper alignment of tires to the frame causing a vibration, wobble, or weave.
Adverse affects would be improper alignment of tires to the frame causing a vibration, wobble, or weave.
I bought a Honda V65 and I discovered it had a slightly bent frame.
I decided to swap the frame.
I decided to swap the frame.
If it can be reasonably proven that the bike has been in an accident and the PO didn't advise of this then could you ask for your money back?
That looks as if the bottom yoke has contacted the frame down tube? I can't see if the bump stop is there which should have stopped the yoke coming round that far.
You could do some basic checks to try and establish what is out of line.
Assuming that the engine is mounted centrally in the frame and the mounts are equidistant from the centreline then using a plumb line mark where the outer edge of the engine mounts are on the ground.
This will allow you to establish the centre line of the frame. The rear wheel will be off-set from the centre line which is normal but the rim edges should be parallel to it and the wheel perpendicular to the ground.
The centre of the front wheel should run through the centre line of the frame. The wheel should be perpendicular to the ground.
You could also check headstock angle.
How does the bike feel when riding: does it track straight and is steering effort the same on right and left hand turns?
It is possible to have frames straightened (see here) so this may be an option for you depending on how much out of line it is and the cost relative to another frame.
That looks as if the bottom yoke has contacted the frame down tube? I can't see if the bump stop is there which should have stopped the yoke coming round that far.
You could do some basic checks to try and establish what is out of line.
Assuming that the engine is mounted centrally in the frame and the mounts are equidistant from the centreline then using a plumb line mark where the outer edge of the engine mounts are on the ground.
This will allow you to establish the centre line of the frame. The rear wheel will be off-set from the centre line which is normal but the rim edges should be parallel to it and the wheel perpendicular to the ground.
The centre of the front wheel should run through the centre line of the frame. The wheel should be perpendicular to the ground.
You could also check headstock angle.
How does the bike feel when riding: does it track straight and is steering effort the same on right and left hand turns?
It is possible to have frames straightened (see here) so this may be an option for you depending on how much out of line it is and the cost relative to another frame.
Congratulations! You now have a quick-to-steer bike! Quicker to steer than an undamaged VMax.
I once rode a VMax bike which took a hit in the front hard-enough to break a lower triple tree steering stop. While I didn't do any triple-digit speeds, at legal speeds I couldn't tell of any compromises in its operation.
Here in the USA there is a business called GMD Computrack which can measure a frame for damage, and they can restore proper geometry if the damage isn't enough to rule-out such a fix. https://gmdatl.com/index.html I didn't open MM's link, so I don't know if what's available in the UK is the same.
I'd do some research to see if you can get an undamaged frame, if in fact you can establish that the original frame is bent, and it cannnot be reliably repaired.
I once rode a VMax bike which took a hit in the front hard-enough to break a lower triple tree steering stop. While I didn't do any triple-digit speeds, at legal speeds I couldn't tell of any compromises in its operation.
Here in the USA there is a business called GMD Computrack which can measure a frame for damage, and they can restore proper geometry if the damage isn't enough to rule-out such a fix. https://gmdatl.com/index.html I didn't open MM's link, so I don't know if what's available in the UK is the same.
I'd do some research to see if you can get an undamaged frame, if in fact you can establish that the original frame is bent, and it cannnot be reliably repaired.
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I'm answering everyone at the same time.
My main worry is that the frame could lose strenght because bending it again back to its place. I have no issue with putting back in line, I think I know how to do it and I have the tools needed, but I don't know if is worthy. Also I don't know if doing it myself or paying a workshop for that. For real I've seen such damages done in workshops to every kind of vehicle that I will never trust any not-well-known "proffffeesssssionalll" out there. At least in Spain we are going throughout a real crisis of competence in people. Is hard to find out there NORMAL level of quality workers at any level. That's why I learn to do stuff. My bad tries get better results than the paid ones "proffesssionslllsls" works out there.
I don't know what to do. By the moment I'll try to speak with the PO because I'm almost sure that he bought it that way 20 years ago. The hit doesn't seems to be that bad, but I can see it clearly because I know a bit about this things.
Still couldn't try it on highway. I'm waiting to change the front tyre as it is 20 YO and I'm not going high speeds with that.
My main worry is that the frame could lose strenght because bending it again back to its place. I have no issue with putting back in line, I think I know how to do it and I have the tools needed, but I don't know if is worthy. Also I don't know if doing it myself or paying a workshop for that. For real I've seen such damages done in workshops to every kind of vehicle that I will never trust any not-well-known "proffffeesssssionalll" out there. At least in Spain we are going throughout a real crisis of competence in people. Is hard to find out there NORMAL level of quality workers at any level. That's why I learn to do stuff. My bad tries get better results than the paid ones "proffesssionslllsls" works out there.
I don't know what to do. By the moment I'll try to speak with the PO because I'm almost sure that he bought it that way 20 years ago. The hit doesn't seems to be that bad, but I can see it clearly because I know a bit about this things.
Still couldn't try it on highway. I'm waiting to change the front tyre as it is 20 YO and I'm not going high speeds with that.
sparky4123
Active Member
The dent in the downtube doesn’t look like much, but when you look at how far the scoop is out of alignment with the carbs you would have to think that whole side of the frame has been pushed back. I would really use caution to even get on that bike and ride at any sort of speed.
Mild steel is pretty forgiving and can normally be persuaded to go back into it's original position.
I'd be interested to see the tools you propose to use to get the frame back as it should be and ensure everything is aligned.
I'd be interested to see the tools you propose to use to get the frame back as it should be and ensure everything is aligned.
I tested it for like 500 meters. Not more than 70 km/h (around 45 mph). I shaked the damn out of the steering to test for clanks or bad things and so on and the thing behave like a well raised child. That's why I didn't noticed a thing. The bike feels great at driving. I just didn't tested it at high speeds yet. I'm telling you in some days because I'm taking this thing out ASAP no doubt.
Also it seems to be bended the same amount in both sides, that's should be why it doesn't feels that bad. And yes, the steering bended to the right, it should be more affected in that side but seems like is not. Weird.
With no shame I have to tell you that is cheaper to make by myself a frame with brutal wood beams to use as frame for pulling and an steel rulers system to have the points under fine measurement at the same time while I humiliate the whole thing back to place. I've done horrendous things that worked impressively well at my garage. I have more stuff than just wood, but that's the new one I would need to create this time.
Anyways it will be for the next year or later, as I have no time or money by the moment. I'm just starting to give birth to ideas to fix this stuff. Along the time until the moment, I'm hunting resources for the job.
Anyways it will be for the next year or later, as I have no time or money by the moment. I'm just starting to give birth to ideas to fix this stuff. Along the time until the moment, I'm hunting resources for the job.
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
The front necks on these bikes are VERY stout. You can take this advice how you wish and at your own risk but I have had many bikes that sheared the steering stop and cause damage like this. They always handle just fine and I would trust them to ride anywhere at any speed (provided the wheels are straight and other maintenance has been taken care of).
I see this as a good thing, with the problem that it means it will be hard (with my possibilities) to bend back in place. But not impossible.
The bike doesn't look asimetric at all. And behaves really well when driving. I worry more about the steering axis angle and the possibility of wobbles and swings on the highway. The damage seems to be the same in both sides, and not so big. AFAIK the PO used it for long time like this before selling it so I'm doing the same with caution until having time for fixing it.
The bike doesn't look asimetric at all. And behaves really well when driving. I worry more about the steering axis angle and the possibility of wobbles and swings on the highway. The damage seems to be the same in both sides, and not so big. AFAIK the PO used it for long time like this before selling it so I'm doing the same with caution until having time for fixing it.
You wouldn't believe how many WORKSHOPS I'm seeing on YouTube 'straightening' frames with sledgehammers.
After some thinking, I would either buy some scrap metal and do a good foldable or well storable frame for pulling/pushing. Also I already have the electronics to create a good measuring device for that frame, laser, aluminium parts and metallic rulers based. Using my very humble small 3D printer I can do for sure a really sturdy system for taking good measures with precision.
I've seen that 4 tons jacks are more than enough for it, so I'm just starting to make the list for the "project". Also I'm sure it will be cheaper than buying another frame and as I wanted anyways to restore this bike I'm going for it.
After some thinking, I would either buy some scrap metal and do a good foldable or well storable frame for pulling/pushing. Also I already have the electronics to create a good measuring device for that frame, laser, aluminium parts and metallic rulers based. Using my very humble small 3D printer I can do for sure a really sturdy system for taking good measures with precision.
I've seen that 4 tons jacks are more than enough for it, so I'm just starting to make the list for the "project". Also I'm sure it will be cheaper than buying another frame and as I wanted anyways to restore this bike I'm going for it.
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
I doubt you need any "repair" unless you simply want something cosmetic to fix the dings in the steering neck.
I really don't like that the geometry is completely off. I want it to have the correct angles and positions, specially for the steering. It's not about dings. It's not so out to the sides but the front fender hits the radiator when the suspension goes down.
This is a first design I just made for the tool, intended for being dissasambled and stored behind any wardrobe with 10 cm behind it. I'm glad I have the store for the parts here at 50 m from my house's door. The guy said like 1 or 1,5 euros per kg. and that one meter of the 80x80 mm pieces is like 10 kg, so the price is really good, having on mind it's new steel. It's intended for fixing the frame from the rear fork hole (don't know the name of the part in English) and pulling or pushing the other side, either front or back of the bike. The middle frame would be movable so you can pull or push from whatever position needed. This is just a scheme and the adaptors and bolts are not depicted. This is mainly for making the parts list.
