My European 102hp has more torque than an American 145hp?

[AP76ita]

Have you done what I suggested in post #91 or was I wasting my time?

Did it!
You get your money back!
Radiator was clogged!

We took it to 2 radiator specialists but both of them didn't want to open it, just let acid flow and said it was fine

But we opened it and found what you see!

Thousands miles of distance and your feeling was right

Well we still must reassemble and check engine running though

 

[AP76ita]

Let's review:



And then



So, once more, it performed EXACTLY as it should.

I am beginning to believe you are looking for problems that don't exist.

Edit to add this post from before when guy said he was having a similar "problem":

Perfectly normal.

Typically, the fan doesn't turn on until right when the needle hits right at the gap between the black and the red area or sometimes right towards the end of the black. If it gets into the red area and the fan isn't running, then you have a problem.

The circled area on this picture is where the fan typically turns on.

View attachment 80914



Most people install the fan switch because they think the Vmax is a car where the fan should run constantly. It's completely unnecessary.

It's also OK to run in the thin red stripe area for a little while, but if you ever get to that thick red stripe at the end, turn the bike off immediately.


Matter is for 15 years I ran this bike and temp always stayed between 4pm and 3pm

After long rides at 8-9k in summer it reached 2pm


instead after the almost 10 years left in garage and put back on road it behaved different. No matter is 2k rpm or limiter, if outside cold or hot, after about 30-40 minutes engine running temperature jumped to red zone and had to turn engine off. So there was something wrong and in fact radiator was found to be as you see in pic.

 

[AP76ita]

This you need to instruct me!
What is the plastic valve and which are the positions I should check?
Sorry not aware of this

 

[AP76ita]

Mean the radiator drain valve?

 

[MaxMidnight]

But we opened it and found what you see!
Thousands miles of distance and your feeling was right

Thanks for the feedback.
The most likely cause of this is running with either very old coolant or none at all. Folk often forget that (arguably) the most important component of 'antifreeze' is the corrosion inhibitor.

Uncle Midnight has come across this issue before and his first rule of diagnosis is to look at the last thing you did to the bike before moving on to the second which is try the most likely things first before tearing the engine down.

Some years ago and it was the first start of the year except it wouldn't.
I had the seat off and multi-meter ready to tear into the electrics....
....then I remembered I hadn't disarmed the immobiliser.

Mean the radiator drain valve?

He's referring to the coolant drain valve (the doofa under the radiator), have a look here

 

[Screwloose]

He's referring to the coolant drain valve (the doofa under the radiator), have a look here

Mine is in this position, a bit squint, I believe you should be able to read the writing on it as normal way up. I’ve had mine stripped down a couple of years ago. If I remember correctly the manual could have been a bit ambiguous on the position, but maybe i’m wrong. Anyway Trigger runs and cools great at this position.

 

[Parminio]

Is that mold under there? You growing shrooms or something?

 

[AP76ita]

Once radiator is back on and engine running I'll check this valve for sure. Nevertheless after I've seen how bad inside it was I hope problem was just the radiator.

I had always used coolant
But bike was simply shut of 10 years ago and stored in a garage. My house was built inside a hill so tons of moisture everywhere

Guess this been the issue

I'll update

 

[Screwloose]

Is that mold under there? You growing shrooms or something?

Yes; I stuck this in it to stop it leaking

I knew someone would spot that. I was desperate! It's not all my fault!

At the time of stripping Trigger down I was eventually fighting against the clock and got fed up after about 4 weeks, continuously every day working on the bike. Had the carbs out about six times, and numerous other problems like overheating, valve clearances, blowing exhaust, leads, and more. The seal was worn and leaked slightly, so I've got copper silicon stuffed in it until I get organised maybe in another 2 years. I use it everywhere such as the cam/valve covers, side covers, almost everywhere there is a seal.

I know I should not!

 

[02GF74]

Mean the radiator drain valve?

it is not the plug that once removed, drains the cooling system but a mysterious valve (plastic nut) that needs to be rotated into one position when draining coolant and turned back once coolant has been filled.

I have no idea what the purpose is but it may affect coolnat flow when in the wrong position.

 

[Screwloose]

I have no idea what the purpose is but it may affect coolnat flow when in the wrong position.

I believe that would be correct.

 

[AP76ita]

it is not the plug that once removed, drains the cooling system but a mysterious valve (plastic nut) that needs to be rotated into one position when draining coolant and turned back once coolant has been filled.

I have no idea what the purpose is but it may affect coolnat flow when in the wrong position.
View attachment 80920
View attachment 80920

Thanks I had no clue about this
Wonder if my mechanic does
I'll verify when rad back on

Now that you explained, I think it's purpose is to let circuit air out while filling it with coolant?
Could it be?

 

[Screwloose]

Thanks I had no clue about this
Wonder if my mechanic does
I'll verify when rad back on

Now that you explained, I think it's purpose is to let circuit air out while filling it with coolant?
Could it be?

Dannymax explains it in the thread heading ‘drain cock valve assembly’, way back 2009.
i stripped mine to find out how it works, and had the whole assembly out because the bit of large corner plumbing nearby was leaking. Looks like i probably got the positioning correct. But Dannymax explains it.

 

[Screwloose]

I should add that when the above guys on the thread talk about draining from this plastic plug, they probably mean if you have another hose off down low, the positioning of the plastic plug will then allow flow to the area where the hose is off. I do not think it means you drain directly from the plastic plug.

 

[02GF74]

^^^^ correct. The plastic plug is some sort of valve but the metal drain plug, if I recall correctly, is below the water pump, which is removed much like an engine dump plug, to drain the coolant.

 

[MaxMidnight]

I have no idea what the purpose is but it may affect coolant flow when in the wrong position.

It bypasses the thermostat which would be closed when draining or re-filling the system. This could prevent some of the coolant draining and as the t.stat is mounted low down and with it closed bleeding the system would be difficult.

To drain the system you would remove the pressure cap, turn the valve to open (remember to undo the grub screw first) and then remove the drain bolt on the underside of the water pump.
Note that if your coolant is still servicable you can save and re-use it.

 

[Screwloose]

It bypasses the thermostat which would be closed when draining or re-filling the system. This could prevent some of the coolant draining and as the t.stat is mounted low down and with it closed bleeding the system would be difficult.

To drain the system you would remove the pressure cap, turn the valve to open (remember to undo the grub screw first) and then remove the drain bolt on the underside of the water pump.
Note that if your coolant is still servicable you can save and re-use it.

That makes allot of sense, I never thought about it much at the time as I had the entire cooling system stripped.

On kinda the same subject; I still think the VMax manual is ambiguous as to where the final running plastic plug positioning is. Another couple of photo's below, with some chalk ontop to show a bit clearer. The plug shows writing as Drain, Off & On, Pour. The ball bearing at the top of the tube is situated in the hole okay. When I stripped it down it was clearer as what position to put it in (I never understood the writing on the plug then), but a couple of years later I still do not get the understanding of the plug writing. Maybe it's me trying to complicate a simple statement (i've been known to do that allot)!

 

[Parminio]

It bypasses the thermostat which would be closed when draining or re-filling the system. This could prevent some of the coolant draining and as the t.stat is mounted low down and with it closed bleeding the system would be difficult.

To drain the system you would remove the pressure cap, turn the valve to open (remember to undo the grub screw first) and then remove the drain bolt on the underside of the water pump.
Note that if your coolant is still servicable you can save and re-use it.

This is what happens when you allow engineers free reign to screw with the general public hard.

 

[Screwloose]

This is what happens when you allow engineers free reign to screw with the general public hard.

That sums that one up.

........................................................................I'm still thinking of the final orientation of the plastic valve with regards to printed wording on it.

It appears then you can bypass the t.stat whilst running the bike., meaning if your overheating you could orientate the valve to allow full fluid flow until you dealt with problems. Maybe!

 

[MaxMidnight]

I'm still thinking of the final orientation of the plastic valve with regards to printed wording on it.

Look at the photo in the link on post #105.

It appears then you can bypass the t.stat whilst running the bike., meaning if your overheating you could orientate the valve to allow full fluid flow until you dealt with problems. Maybe!

I guess it was a stuck thermosts then yes otherwise I doubt it.