N2o

[srk468]

Ok seems in how my car shit got jacked I'll be doing a little more to the bike than I thought but I have a question... What's the biggest shot of nitrous any of you have run on a stock engine? Mine has Cometic head gaskets and ARP studs and home ported heads but otherwise stock, been running a 60 shot and it loves it.. Square jetted and it's still a touch rich, probably keep the 20 nitrous jet and try a 19 fuel to see if I can balance it out a little more, also gonna put a dynotune progressive controller on it so I can leave on a small shot and progress it all in within like 2 seconds...

 

[Dr.n2o]

Sounds like a pretty good setup you have right now. I don't think you want to be spraying more than that without a set of rods. Put the progressive box on it and keep it "fun".

 

[The Beekeeper]

How much power can a stock Max block take?....Even with good internals and fastners..........Tom.........BTW......What happened to the car stuff?..............Nevermind Scott........Found the other thread.......:bang head:.........Asshats!

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I agree the 60 shot is the top for a stock piston/rod setup. Regarding the fuel jets it just depends on which kind of fuel pump output you have...

 

[one2dmax]

I've run 100 and the trans didn't survive.

 

[srk468]

Thanks guys, I was planning on keeping the same nitrous jets and just fine tuning it a little better.. I see no reason I can't run pretty low 10's with it with the progressive on it.. might try a 22 nitrous jet just once to try to break the 9's but don't wanna break the trans, I'm confident the engine would take it for awhile though...

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[srk468]

I agree the 60 shot is the top for a stock piston/rod setup. Regarding the fuel jets it just depends on which kind of fuel pump output you have...

I think you nailed it Weasel, I took out my drain bolt from my tank and drilled and tapped it to 1/8" npt and I'm taking my fuel from there with the pump mounted low to the crossover on the swingarm (the crossmember that connects the pivot bolts) so I've got a very healthy fuel supply.. I know alot of guys just T in to the stock line but I knew better than to do that from messing with cars for so long. I've got a wideband O2 sensor on it and I'll just keep tweaking it until it runs best safely..

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[KJShover]

5 years and counting with an 80 shot, progressively controlled.

 

[srk468]

5 years and counting with an 80 shot, progressively controlled.

Thanks KJ, that's pretty much what I was after... I think I'll be ok on an 80 shot as long as it's a progressive setup unk:

 

[KJShover]

Thanks KJ, that's pretty much what I was after... I think I'll be ok on an 80 shot as long as it's a progressive setup unk:

I think so. A controller is the thing to have. Back on my XS11 I ran two stages of juice totaling in the neighborhood of 150hp, I wish I had a controller back then. It made things nice vs. one large insta-hit that loads up an engine at once.
With the progressives, you can ease into it with the higher hp amount being saved for the last 3rd or so of the track. Like Sean said, the weak link is going to be the transmission. But with a decent progressive setup, there won't be as big of a load on the early stages of the pass.

I would always recommend a controller. your engine, transmission, and wallet will thank you for it. Not to mention the track tune-ability. But I still wouldn't go over 80. I feel that the 20hp/cyl is the maximum for stock, normally aspirated 4 cyl. 15/cyl for Stock EFI, and 20/cyl for twins (although I would wire it up so that when the twin hits the rev limiter, it would kill the nitrous. Otherwise say good bye to a low revving power plant).

I was working on my limiter, when I was talking to a friend that is an electrical genius, mentioned a nice way to make a digital progressive. My limiter, once its done and been tested, can be had for under $75, The digital complete controller, I don't know. It should be in a competitive price with the others. I'm shooting for about $250. It will have the limiting, ramp up time, delay time, and a safety kill feature.

 

[srk468]

I think so. A controller is the thing to have. Back on my XS11 I ran two stages of juice totaling in the neighborhood of 150hp, I wish I had a controller back then. It made things nice vs. one large insta-hit that loads up an engine at once.
With the progressives, you can ease into it with the higher hp amount being saved for the last 3rd or so of the track. Like Sean said, the weak link is going to be the transmission. But with a decent progressive setup, there won't be as big of a load on the early stages of the pass.

I would always recommend a controller. your engine, transmission, and wallet will thank you for it. Not to mention the track tune-ability. But I still wouldn't go over 80. I feel that the 20hp/cyl is the maximum for stock, normally aspirated 4 cyl. 15/cyl for Stock EFI, and 20/cyl for twins (although I would wire it up so that when the twin hits the rev limiter, it would kill the nitrous. Otherwise say good bye to a low revving power plant).

I was working on my limiter, when I was talking to a friend that is an electrical genius, mentioned a nice way to make a digital progressive. My limiter, once its done and been tested, can be had for under $75, The digital complete controller, I don't know. It should be in a competitive price with the others. I'm shooting for about $250. It will have the limiting, ramp up time, delay time, and a safety kill feature.

Yea I'm gonna go with the dynotune one on mine, its got infinitely adjustable initial hit and can delay up to 8 seconds to full power. It also has a window switch that will only let the nitrous run between certain rpm's so I'm gonna set the low side on probably 5500 and the high side at 9600 or thereabouts so the nitrous would be shut off before I hit the rev limiter at 10,000. Right now I've got my fuel pressure safety switch and my full throttle switch on the positive trigger wire for the relay, then I have a DPDT switch for arming and activating the fuel pump and then my "start" button completes the ground. I'm going to splice in a toggle on the ground side to a good chassis ground and that way I can use the full throttle switch for engagement. On the street this will blow the tire off though so then all I have to do is turn off the ground toggle I'm putting in and the system will work the same way it does now so I can just spray from 2'nd gear on on the street and not fry the tire...

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[srk468]

Forgot to mention the dynotune controller is only $200.00 I know you like making your own stuff KJ but unless your going to start producing them that might be the way to go for you too?

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[wildweasel_pt]

I think you nailed it Weasel, I took out my drain bolt from my tank and drilled and tapped it to 1/8" npt and I'm taking my fuel from there with the pump mounted low to the crossover on the swingarm (the crossmember that connects the pivot bolts) so I've got a very healthy fuel supply.. I know alot of guys just T in to the stock line but I knew better than to do that from messing with cars for so long. I've got a wideband O2 sensor on it and I'll just keep tweaking it until it runs best safely..

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Using the A/F monitor while using the N2O to check for mixture is kinda tricky. I don't know what kind you are using but in my opinion i rather leave the fuel a bit on the upside in other to lower temp and eventually save the engine...

 

[wildweasel_pt]

5 years and counting with an 80 shot, progressively controlled.

I was referring to not using a progressive controller. I don't have one and im running 12 per cylinder and with carrillo rods and JE pistons. I might consider that not for the increase in Hp but to prevent sudden launches with a $5K+ paintjob...

 

[srk468]

Using the A/F monitor while using the N2O to check for mixture is kinda tricky. I don't know what kind you are using but in my opinion i rather leave the fuel a bit on the upside in other to lower temp and eventually save the engine...

Good advice, I'm using an Innovate LC1 wideband and I'm about 12.0:1 now and would like to see 12.5-13.0 or so that's all I meant. If I had a turbo it'd be about perfect (they like 11.5-12.0) but on juice they like just a touch leaner, I also use 100 octane unleaded when I'm spraying too because I wanted to stay on curve 1 (stock curve) on my Dyna. Need to find a good 1/8 npt shutoff valve that will stand fuel cause it sucks wearing the gas everytime I drain it! :banghead:

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[KJShover]

.. I might consider that not for the increase in Hp but to prevent sudden launches with a $5K+ paintjob...

I hear you loud and clear on that one. When I still had my chopper, I could car less about anything else, It was the paint that concerned me :biglaugh:

 

[KJShover]

Forgot to mention the dynotune controller is only $200.00 I know you like making your own stuff KJ but unless your going to start producing them that might be the way to go for you too?

I'm familiar with it. I do like to make my own systems, but I'm not an electric kind of guy, so what I'm doing now is new stuff for me. Hence my first controller being just a limiter, and at $200 for a full on controller, no way I can make one to compete with it. Way out of my league. That is a great choice to go with. Like my system i'm working on, I'm sure I can beat any comparable system's price when all is said and done, complete for about $400 vs, (NX, Cold Fusion, NOS, etc...$600+) but the best, or what I consider the best, the Wizards of NOS, no way can I or anything out here as of yet can compete with them.

Here is some stuff I wrote a few years back, normal disclaimers apply it's just what I've learned over the years.

 

[srk468]

I hear ya, I like making my own stuff too just because I can but like you I'm not huge into electronics so when it comes to this kind of stuff its just easier and usually cheaper just to buy it. I'll check out your writing later when I get home bud

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