Need advice....

[gamorg02]

sean, danny, buster. thanks guys... i don't think so either, as a buddy said if it was a bearing roller it'd be smooth, not have notches like it does...


SO ANYWAYS.. update.

Picked up the thread fixer @ 8:58 and they close @ 9. Worked like a champ. had to obviously bore out the hole i stripped out. this is NOT the hole iw as having problems with before.

there was some uneveness to the ledge the rotor sat on on that bolt so i took a file and GENTLY took some of the burrs off. that seems to have solved 99% of it. it still goes in crooked but it butts up against the rotor fine. did some quick tests with the wheel on the center stand and don't notice any noises against the pads particularly where a problem might occur. real test will be out in the real world either wed or thurs.. in the meantime i have clutch and brakes to bleed, finish wiring my taillight and change the front pads.

i got some new allen head bolts and they wanted to strip too. i have hex bolts on right now with SS washers (bolts are SS too). i like the look. will test them out again after the ride. clearance is probably 2mm, or twice as much as the front rotor bolts have agains the forks.

thanks everyone for the help and hopeuflly the rear rotor is solved. if i have to drill it out i have the helicoil kit now for a 8 x 1.25 job so i could always do that, altho i'm not convinced it would be as easy as just a stripped hole as its a bit sideways...

also no more noises from the rear rim. ended up putting some electrical tape on the outside of the collars and they seem stuck in there now! might have to pick one up at some point.. sean? haha doesn' t look like they're sold separately from the rubber bushing..

 

[dannymax]

Good job Garrett...way to 'adapt & overcome'!! :eusa_dance:

danny

 

[gamorg02]

hah thanks danny.... keeping my fingers crossed that this rotor business is done.... shouldn't need a new one for a while!

u know what i always thought was odd, in the US when u get a metric bolt is has an SAE head on it? so is the case not with the SS bolts i got but the pinch bolt for my rear axle i had to replace.. weird stuff...

 

[gamorg02]

so there doesn't appear to be any warping or feedback when braking on the galfer rotor. great news.. just up and down my street quick. feels good. will have to keep an eye on all the bolts make sure they're holding when i get her all buttoned up tomorrow.

in other news i spent almost 4 hours getting the stripped screw out of the master cylinder cover. that was a royal pain in the ass. almost every attempt failed me. finally was able to file away a little notch and pound a flat head screwdriver at an angle to provide rotational spin. wasn't in very tight but holy **** that was a bitch.

 

[gamorg02]

so it looks like i'm in the clear. thanks everyone for the help. did 50 miles between last night and the ride into work today. rear rotor feels great, smooth on and off. front pads feel fantastic. didn't notice a huge difference in the fluid changes but its now not black! it was probably oem fluid.

i put some permanent marker marks on the bolts and rotor so i know if the bolts start to slip at all. so far so good. i think they'll hold just fine. went with the hex bolts and love the look. i ordered a new circlip, OEM rotor bolts (incase i want to go back) and a rear reservoir cover as well. i'll take some pics later. thanks sean, chris, danny & buster!

 

[gamorg02]

about 150 miles now and was starting to get some feedback on the pedal during very light braking. put the bike on the center stand and was seeing runnout from the rotor. took the crooked bolt off and put a plug in and it got a lot better, no more pedal feedback or runnout but there is a slight squeal now when it comes out of where the dip used to be when hand turning the tire (altho i think it was there before too but i hadn't noticed). i'll give it a couple more hundred miles then see where i'm at.

 

[gamorg02]

so it looks like i may need some advice again :bang head:

put about 130 miles on today. still with the plug in and there is no feedback anymore.

however, i do have some squealing. i can throw the bike on the cs and spin the rear tire and it appears to be near where i was having the problem bolt and some other spots along the rotor. looks like the rotor is warping a bit maybe? i had read about galfers doing that... when it squeals i can see brake dust poof out from the pad.. also the rotor is starting to show some rust spots when i left it out overnight. that can't be right. i'm going to talk to bikebandit/galfer. i think i may want to just go with the ebc pro-lite and hh pads in the rear... not sure if they'll take back used rotors even if they're defective... i should also mention the squealing only happens at extremely low speeds and i only noticed it out on the road with light braking and when i had it back on the house with no braking. it seems to come and go a bit as well..

what would u guys do in that situation?

anyways so i'll see what they say, but i also wanted to get some opinions on possible re-tapping that one angled hole.

if we assume the ledge the rotor sits on is truly flat, it sounds like if i could get a drill press or talk to a local shop, that might be relatively fixable by putting a new insert in there like this:
http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/howto/insert/index.html

however, if that ledge isn't flat, may have a bigger issue. anyone have any ideas how to check realively easily if its flat?

i'm also not sure if i explained this properly thru my posts, but the reason the rotor was getting bent when that one angled bolt was in, is that the outer side of the bolt was hitting the rotor first, and then more pressure on that part of the recess on the rotor, causing it to bend. it was enough of an angle to do this, and i think since all the 'tabs' that go onto the ledges of the wavy rotor aren't interconnected, thsi type of rotor is more susceptible to that reaction...

so i'm a little frustrated but not bad. its working as of now, just not perfect. maybe someone should just tell me to shut up and stop wanting everything to be perfect! haha.. but at least the functionality is working well now its that squealing tha ti'm wondeirng is a sign of worst things to come.

tia guys...

 

[dannymax]

so it looks like i may need some advice again :bang head:

put about 130 miles on today. still with the plug in and there is no feedback anymore.

however, i do have some squealing. i can throw the bike on the cs and spin the rear tire and it appears to be near where i was having the problem bolt and some other spots along the rotor. looks like the rotor is warping a bit maybe? i had read about galfers doing that... when it squeals i can see brake dust poof out from the pad.. also the rotor is starting to show some rust spots when i left it out overnight. that can't be right. i'm going to talk to bikebandit/galfer. i think i may want to just go with the ebc pro-lite and hh pads in the rear... not sure if they'll take back used rotors even if they're defective... i should also mention the squealing only happens at extremely low speeds and i only noticed it out on the road with light braking and when i had it back on the house with no braking. it seems to come and go a bit as well..

what would u guys do in that situation?

anyways so i'll see what they say, but i also wanted to get some opinions on possible re-tapping that one angled hole.

if we assume the ledge the rotor sits on is truly flat, it sounds like if i could get a drill press or talk to a local shop, that might be relatively fixable by putting a new insert in there like this:
http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/howto/insert/index.html

however, if that ledge isn't flat, may have a bigger issue. anyone have any ideas how to check realively easily if its flat?

i'm also not sure if i explained this properly thru my posts, but the reason the rotor was getting bent when that one angled bolt was in, is that the outer side of the bolt was hitting the rotor first, and then more pressure on that part of the recess on the rotor, causing it to bend. it was enough of an angle to do this, and i think since all the 'tabs' that go onto the ledges of the wavy rotor aren't interconnected, thsi type of rotor is more susceptible to that reaction...

so i'm a little frustrated but not bad. its working as of now, just not perfect. maybe someone should just tell me to shut up and stop wanting everything to be perfect! haha.. but at least the functionality is working well now its that squealing tha ti'm wondeirng is a sign of worst things to come.

tia guys...

Not sure about your squeal Garrett....there are anti-squeal products available but I don't know anything about them.

The shoulders the rotor mounts on are all machined at the same time, there would have to be some serious (and I would think obvious) damage to the wheel for one shoulder to be out from the others. You might be able to use a straight edge though, depending on which way the slant appears to go.

BTW...the shoulder with the crooked hole...is that the one that kept shearing bolts?

The brass insert would prolly work ok...seems like a lot of extra trouble tho. Why not drill a size or two larger (enough to clean out the crooked threads), retap, then drill out the corresponding rotor tab hole to match the oversize bolt diameter? Use a drill press for this.

danny

 

[gamorg02]

Not sure about your squeal Garrett....there are anti-squeal products available but I don't know anything about them.

The shoulders the rotor mounts on are all machined at the same time, there would have to be some serious (and I would think obvious) damage to the wheel for one shoulder to be out from the others. You might be able to use a straight edge though, depending on which way the slant appears to go.

BTW...the shoulder with the crooked hole...is that the one that kept shearing bolts?

The brass insert would prolly work ok...seems like a lot of extra trouble tho. Why not drill a size or two larger (enough to clean out the crooked threads), retap, then drill out the corresponding rotor tab hole to match the oversize bolt diameter? Use a drill press for this.

danny

danny. i'll take a peak using a straightedge. i think i'd be able to tell by holding a stright edge/dowl or something on the outside-side of the ledge and putting it against the adjacent one. If the dowl touches the two ledges on both sides than i can assume its not slated, and its the bolt going in crooked causing the misshaping...

the only problem i could see with drilling it out, is i'm not sure if i should goto a 9mm or 10mm bolt. And with that being the case the head may be bigger than the current recess. altho I could probably just use a washer, drill it out a bit and use the same hex bolts.

once the hole is drilled out, would I use the tap in the drill press or by hand? also how do I know what size drill to use to put in a 9mm or 10mm hole? is there a chart somewhere?

 

[dannymax]

danny. i'll take a peak using a straightedge. i think i'd be able to tell by holding a stright edge/dowl or something on the outside-side of the ledge and putting it against the adjacent one. If the dowl touches the two ledges on both sides than i can assume its not slated, and its the bolt going in crooked causing the misshaping...

The rounded dowel may be hard to use...try the back of a bread knife, or something sharper...check it with the adjacent shoulders on either side.

the only problem i could see with drilling it out, is i'm not sure if i should goto a 9mm or 10mm bolt. And with that being the case the head may be bigger than the current recess. altho I could probably just use a washer, drill it out a bit and use the same hex bolts.

Do you have washers the same thickness and diameter as the recess? Just make the hole the same as the bolt diameter. (I think that's what you said)

once the hole is drilled out, would I use the tap in the drill press or by hand? also how do I know what size drill to use to put in a 9mm or 10mm hole? is there a chart somewhere?

Put the tap in the drill press and run it in by hand...1/2 turn in...back it out to break the chip, 1/2 turn in...back it out, keep doing that all the way down, it'll give you nice clean threads. Use cutting oil and blow the chips out of the hole so they don't interfere with the cutting edges of the tap and **** up your new threads.

Drill/tap sizes are all spec'd out...I'll check and let you know.

danny

 

[dannymax]

Here ya go Garrett!

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing/metric-iso-tap-drill-chart.htm

 

[gamorg02]

thnx for all the help danny. i'll have to see if it makes sense to go 9mm or 10mm. my buddys father has a drill press plus my rear tire is almost gone so i think it makes more sense to have it resting on the rim, not the tire.

I also may try to clean it out with an 8mm bit, and then use th e8mm x 1.25 thread repair kit i already own from the OTHER stripped out bolt... if that doesn't work i could always drill/tap to a 9mm or 10mm eh? or u think thats risky? this way i wouldn't have to drill out the rotor or any rotor in the future...

 

[dannymax]

thnx for all the help danny. i'll have to see if it makes sense to go 9mm or 10mm. my buddys father has a drill press plus my rear tire is almost gone so i think it makes more sense to have it resting on the rim, not the tire.

I also may try to clean it out with an 8mm bit, and then use th e8mm x 1.25 thread repair kit i already own from the OTHER stripped out bolt... if that doesn't work i could always drill/tap to a 9mm or 10mm eh? or u think thats risky? this way i wouldn't have to drill out the rotor or any rotor in the future...

Didn't realize you already had the 'fix kit.' Def to your advantage not to drill the rotor unless you have to. Then you're still left with a 'plan B.'

danny

 

[gamorg02]

Didn't realize you already had the 'fix kit.' Def to your advantage not to drill the rotor unless you have to. Then you're still left with a 'plan B.'

danny

sounds good. it seems like its gonna be one of those 90% prep work 10% actual work jobs. wish i had access to a drill press that i could just put the whole tire/rim under.

i think its better for just the rim to be there though, as the tire may have imperfections, the rim is a lot less likely to.

just got off the phone with galfer as well about some of the squealing i'm seeing/hearing in othe rparts of the rotor and i have to say their customer service/tech support is top notch.

 

[gamorg02]

well i found a motorcycle machine shop 2 miles from work! they came recommended. they said $25 to fix it if its simple. no more than $50 if the thread is really garbaged. i think thats my best bet honestly. he seemed pretty sure it'd be 25 or 30 and for that price, its cheap insurance to have it done right!

he also came recommended by the local yamaha dealer to do dyno tuning, and i talked with him about possibly putting in morleys kit. he had mentioned he hadnt' heard of it but had done stage 7's a ways back. he said he woudl charge $325 to install the kit and tune it up. somethign to think about as i have a lot going on in the next coming weeks and a trip out to albany may not work out until late fall or next year...

 

[gamorg02]

so I got a call from the shop. they fixed the one bolt no problemo $25 bucks.

HOWEVER, that one ledge is between 5/1000 and 10/1000 lower than the others. they are going to machine them all to match. good stuff. glad they saw that, and i hadn't mentioned it. I will def be using these guys again. hopefully this solves my rotor/wheel problem.

not sure how the ledge got lower, coudl have been when teh bolt stripped out, could have been at the p/c'ers or when i lightly took very fine file to it to scrape off some burrs. either way its getting fixed.