Need help identifying electrical connector.

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Tyboy11

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All,

Putting this thing back together and trying to figure out what the red wire/plug in the picture goes to. Connector on left side of bike and runs along the back side of the battery in a small harness to the right side of the engine. It's just a single red female blade connector.
Plug 1 with arrow.jpg

Plug 2.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 
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It's an 85'. The female plug in the picture is exactly like the female plug connected to the red wire on the starter relay. But that is all hooked up. Just got it back together after 5 years and numerous things are needing rewired after I put some juice to it, so it's hard to tell what's not working. I'm doing some repairs to the other wiring and will try again. Starter didn't motor, no neutral indication and a lot of others, LOL.
 
UPDATE-Keep in mind this is a work in progress....Still no starter engagement and my neutral switch is actually illuminating my oil pressure light. Gonna have to check my connections for that one, LOL. May not have enough juice to turn starter at this point. Battery is junk and I have a charger on it to do these checks.

Fire-Medic -- Thank You for the PDF manual at the beginning of this chapter. That is going to help a lot.
 
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Another Update-- My neutral switch and oil level wires (bayonet plugs) were swapped. Neutral now working. Starter tries to engage but battery is too low. Still no turn signals and brake light is on and flickering (aftermarket LED)> I'm going to get a new battery in the morning, and I'll see how it goes.

I still don't know what that plug goes to that I started this thread asking about??
 
This will sound sarcastic but isn't intended to be; you need to look for a similar connector.
If memory serves well (dubious) there is only one like this on the loom and may be from or to the alternator.
 
Gentlemen,
Good input. I redid a wire coming in from the alternator/rectifier that had another inline 30 amp fuse which ran to the positive battery terminal. The idea that it's additional for charging may very well be the case. The previous owner did several things to this like the DD clutch mod, stage one needles (removed by me and re-jetted back to stock/lean). I'll be able to check more later after new battery's done top charging. I'll follow up. THANKS
 
New battery installed and it cranked right up as soon as fuel got to the bowls. I was in the middle of making carb adjustments 5 years ago when the middle gear broke, so it was fresh off a carb rebuild. Now I have to figure out why the temp gauge doesn't work, no parking lights on the back and no turn signals front and back from what I know right now. I have some other little things to fix as well. Installing new fuel tank and will start on troubleshooting electrical.

Regards,
 
Glad the battery cleared things up as far as starting/running.

1731859302668.png
 

Attachments

  • VMax 1985-1989 wire diagram complete.pdf
    666.9 KB
Fire-Medic,

It definitely did. Looks like the 40-year-old turn signal switch needed pulled apart and everything cleaned. The headlights and turn signals are good to go. I forgot the signals in the back don't act ask parking lights unless modified. The ground wire next to the radiator fill port was also corroded internally, so I threw in a new one and I'm hoping maybe the temp gauge will work now. Next start I'll tap into that extra plug and see if it's coming from the alternator for charging. The replacement gas tank and sending unit Oring came in last week but the sending unit won't arrive till tomorrow. (Babbit's order) The old tank is out and just waiting for the new one.

Thanks for the nice wiring diagram. That's nicer than the Clymer manual.
Tank Out.jpgTurn Signal Switch Housing.jpg
 
Oh yeah, cleaning is indicated!

The first thing I look at with electrical issues is the strength of the battery, and then grounds and connectors. Some sandpaper or crocus cloth, or maybe a Dremel and either a wire brush of different shapes and some dielectric grease. There are inexpensive tools you can get at someplace like NAPA or a good parts house, to remove the individual pins or plates or spade terminals (male/female) so you can remove the contacts and clean them, and replace them so they stay connected. DEOXIT is a good product for cleaning connections, not cheap, but hey, you aren't using much, and it works.
 
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