new here, need some help!!

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okievmax

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hennessey,
Proud new owner of a pristine 1991 vmax. Has 18000 miles and is all stock except for kerker 4 into 1 exhaust. Im sure it hasnt been jetted. Pipes are turning yellowhish blue at the heads. What should my air screws be turned out? Next, i drive it 65 miles one way to work every day. After about 15 mins on the highway it starts to very slightly bog down. It quits if u give ir more gas or just hold it steady for a few seconds. Usuall around 4000 rpm. It is almost boggy off idle til the rpms reach about 1800 rpm. Can anybody start me in the right direction?
 
Sounds like your fuel filter needs changing. You can pick up a generic clear fuel filter in the lawn mower section of o'reilly's that fits well where the OEM filter goes. I would drain each carb thru a coffee filter to see what kind of contaminants come out also. If you are into fuel additives give it a Double Dose of "START YOUR ENGINE" it has worked rather well on everything I have tried it on, and works fast. You can get it at some Wally world stores and most automotive stores, it seems far superior to Sea Foam , a few members on here have tried it with very good reports. I would not move the A/F screws until all of these recommended things are done.

Proud new owner of a pristine 1991 vmax. Has 18000 miles and is all stock except for kerker 4 into 1 exhaust. Im sure it hasnt been jetted. Pipes are turning yellowhish blue at the heads. What should my air screws be turned out? Next, i drive it 65 miles one way to work every day. After about 15 mins on the highway it starts to very slightly bog down. It quits if u give ir more gas or just hold it steady for a few seconds. Usuall around 4000 rpm. It is almost boggy off idle til the rpms reach about 1800 rpm. Can anybody start me in the right direction?
 
Proud new owner of a pristine 1991 vmax. Has 18000 miles and is all stock except for kerker 4 into 1 exhaust. Im sure it hasnt been jetted. Pipes are turning yellowhish blue at the heads. What should my air screws be turned out? Next, i drive it 65 miles one way to work every day. After about 15 mins on the highway it starts to very slightly bog down. It quits if u give ir more gas or just hold it steady for a few seconds. Usuall around 4000 rpm. It is almost boggy off idle til the rpms reach about 1800 rpm. Can anybody start me in the right direction?
Welcome okievmax...you'll get alot of help here.
 
Thanks guys, ill check that as soon as i get home. Anybody point me to a post about changing fork seals?
 
Well fuel filter was almost new. Took it off and blew through. Its in perfect shape but i replaced anyways. Drained carb and had clean gas coming out. Which way do i go now?
 
I would check condition of the 12 boots (air box, vboost, carbs), air filter and slides. Then, sync the carbs and mixture screws.
 
Sounds like you just bought the bike? Has it done this since you bought it or did this problem recently appear?

If its done it since you bought it, you may need to go through the carbs. Seems that the vmax carbs cause grief for lots of guys. The nice thing about them is that they are dead easy to remove compared to other bikes and there is plenty of info on this site to help you out.

As far as your exhaust goes, its not uncommon to see some color change near the heads. Especially on the rear headers, right in front of the battery.

If it were my bike I would pull the carbs off and see what's going on in there. You never know what the previous owner did, or didn't do. Before pulling them, check the tank for rust, drain all the float bowls and check for sediment, pull the plugs and inspect the color.

Check the carburator forum here. There are "stickys" that will give you all the info you need to know about how to remove the carbs from the bike, how to change jets, and how to completely tear the carbs down.

You should verify what jets you have in there for the main and paj's. Check the slides for holes, check the needles to see if they are stock or adjustable. Clean everything. Pay special attention to the jet block under the floats. The pilot jet is in there and it is very common to find it blocked.

There is another sticky with carb setups posted. Its pretty common for guys with a full aftermarket exhaust to be running 150 or 147.5 main jets, all other jets stock, shim the needle a little bit, and turn the A/F screws to 2.5-3.5 turns out. That is a starting point, every bike is different but that is a good base line to start.

If you want to get the most you can out of the bike you could always buy a jet kit. There are only 2 of them worth spending your resources on. A dynojet stage 7 or a muscle jet kit. Either can be purchased from Sean Morlery (see banner at top of the forum "morleys muscle). They both have similar top end power. The muscle jet kit will give you more mid range than the stage 7, plus it is a bit cheaper. Neither is a necessity but if you're looking for a few more ponies it will help.

Check out this section of the forum:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/forumdisplay.php?f=6

Spend some time on the stickies. There are threads in here that will show you:

How to remove carbs and change the main jets
How to set the float level. VERY important and its usually off
How to identify jets.
How to identify needles
How to completely rebuild the carbs (6 different how to threads)
How to sync the carbs. Very important and very easy!
Compare settings with other members
Plus much more.
 
I have noticed that it really only sputters when ur driving into the wind. Can anybody make any sense of that?
 
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