Make sure it's for wet clutches.
Your clutch issue is likely due to being in-need of a full-bleed. I recommend a
reverse-bleed, where you
push fluid into the slave cyl bleeder. You start by emptying the master cyl of the clutch reservoir. As you push brake fluid into the slave cylinder, you will eventually see the empty master cyl reservoit start to fill with fluid. Do not allow it to overflow, because of its corrosive effects on painted surfaces. Drain the reservoir again, if you need to.
Bubbles will flow into the reservoir with the fluid. Eventually, the bubbles will stop, and every push of the reverse-bleeder, will result in a solid stream of brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoir hole closest to the end of the handlebar is the 'big hole.' Lots of fluid from that one, enters the reservoir.
The hole closest-to the master cyl banjo bolt is the smaller hole, and tiny fizzy bubbles erupt from that one until the hose system is completely full of brake fluid, and no-more bubbles are evident.
Immediately close the slave cyl bleeder, by the left footpeg. I suggest replacing the master cyl reservoir cap at this point. Now, the test.
Squeeze the clutch multiple times, and you should very soon feel the resistance evident in a healthy clutch. From the clutch lever being fully-out, when you squeeze the lever, you should soon feel resistance, and the amount of resistance should be consistent to the handlebar. That should be it.
Many people perform the 'tie-down the lever to the handlebar overnight' idea being that any stray bubbles will go up to the master cyl reservoir, and find their way out of one or the other of those two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. I don't bother. If you want to try it and you feel it works, great.
Here's a longer version of this, and it says how to build a reverse-bleeder with something from your local supermarket and some inexpensive pieces of hardware from your local auto parts store.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
