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jedi-

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Just picked up a frame with swingarm, rear wheel and wiring loom etc the other day.
I have quite a few spare parts here and should be able to punch out another bike as I have a spare engine etc. I don't want to throw a whole lot of money at it but I want it to look nice.
I have a few plans for some custom parts and I think there might be some interest in those so I'll show them as I progress through the project, might take awhile but I want it to be fun. Updated with pics as I go.:punk:
 
Based on your other projects I have no doubt it will look great. Post pics of the progress :ttiwwp:
 
Here's a snap of the frame I got. There's obviously plenty to do but I will take plenty of pics as I move along
 

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Thanks for the kind words.
First up I had chance to punch out the stacks.
Tomorrow I have an idea for the side covers which I think should look trick and I'll post up the results
 

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Bead blasted the side covers and cut a window out with wire EDM and started chopping the swingarm. I have a jig for the swingarm as I have done it a few times before. It will extend 80mm .
I will put stainless steel mesh in the windows of the covers
 

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I have a matching pair of chrome wheels 18's on the way cheap at $499 and will make them ift
 

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Nice wheels and great price. Almost look like dymags

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Machined up what is known as a "slug" for the brake side of the swingarm this afternoon and also need to do the diff side.
Don't just simply butt weld an extension tube because it isn't particularly strong like that. That's why my slug has the two spigots each end which will fit into the existing swingarm tubes. It gets a little tricky because the factory tube on the brake side is oval shape. I will press my slug in the press to match the oem tube to make it oval and then fit it.
To make a joint like that stronger you can then do what's known as a rosette weld by drilling from the outer oem tube and doing plug welds. Example picture attached
 

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Thats an interesting bit of info there! Ive been working in the fabrication field for a few years now and have never heard of that being reffered to as that kind of weld. Ive done plenty of them on parts for Pratt & Whitney but never had anyone explain why its done like that. Thank you for that!
 
Your way of thinking is different than most, Steve. I don't mean that in a bad way.

You put more thought into details that would go unnoticed than many guys put into their entire bike.

I always enjoy seeing what your up to. Appreciate you taking the time to share the photos and info.
 
I can appreciate your work Steve. Different, calculated, custom.

Following.
 
Machined up what is known as a "slug" for the brake side of the swingarm this afternoon and also need to do the diff side.
Don't just simply butt weld an extension tube because it isn't particularly strong like that. That's why my slug has the two spigots each end which will fit into the existing swingarm tubes. It gets a little tricky because the factory tube on the brake side is oval shape. I will press my slug in the press to match the oem tube to make it oval and then fit it.
To make a joint like that stronger you can then do what's known as a rosette weld by drilling from the outer oem tube and doing plug welds. Example picture attached

Just curious on your motivation to extend the swingarm 80 mm. Can you give us your thoughts as why?
 
Just curious on your motivation to extend the swingarm 80 mm. Can you give us your thoughts as why?

Technically the bike is more stable but that's not really why I choose to do it. It's really just cosmetics
 
Technically the bike is more stable but that's not really why I choose to do it. It's really just cosmetics

+1, My original reason for doing the same is that it pulls the tire from "under" the bike and the side benefit of the longer and braced swingarm is a smoother ride/ more control of the rear wheel.
 
Got the swingarm welded up and will post up pic tomorrow, usually I have added a hoop for bracing but this time I have kept things simple with just a simple cross member with 1.5 roll cage tube not shown in this picture which just shows the mock up in the jig.
 

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Won't you loose inside clearance for the drive shaft if you need to notch the arm? Is that a vmax final drive? Doesn't look like it

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