New to me Max and a few questions

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cmw2212

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So I just brought my Max home. 1989 with around 15k on it. I got it from the 2nd owner who got it from his father in law who bought it new on 4/1/89. The screw for the brake and clutch master cylinder are stripped. I tried an easy out and no luck. The question, can I use a dremel to make a slot in the screw and use a big screwdriver to get them out. If I damage the cover I can replace those. The next question, the sight glass on the brake master is milky and appears to be bubbled out where as the one on the clutch is clear and flat. Do I need to rebuild or replace the brake master cylinder?
 
yes, you can slot the screws to open it up. You can probably find some chrome reservoir covers on ebay.

The sight glass does not come in a rebuild kit. You can buy them from various places on line. I would probably just find a replacement master instead of buying a new cover, screws, and sight glass. Sometimes you gotta know when to throw in the towel. Any 1st gen vmax master will work. Plenty of other options too.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
You can defo use the dremel to make screwdriver tracks - as you say the MC covers are cheap to replace.

Once you got them off clean the brake side and it might just be fine. If not, a replacement brake M/C shouldn't be hard to find and inexpensive, as rebuilding the sight glass isn't all that easy,
 
I think I may just replace the brake master. I bought the stainless brake and clutch lines off the marketplace. Tbe battery was dead but I already had one so I put it jn and checked all the lights. Had to get a new fuel line the old one got hard and broke. Turned the key and could hear two seperate things winding up. I am guessing the vboost servo and the fuel pump. I hit the button and the starter turned. It has been sitting for about a year so I need to clean some stuff up first.
 
If you use a little heat and the left hand spinning easy outs you might get them out. The rubbers will get wrecked though. Like Mike said, sometimes throwing in the towel and getting another MC is more logical.
Steve-o
 
Look, you're gonna spend 10 grand on this bike before you're done....so just buy two new cylinders and accept your fate. while you're at it, replace everything else having to do with the brakes. Contact Morley's Muscle. Best friend you can have. Contact your banker. Second best friend you can have.

Keep in mind that the gen 2 gets 19 miles per gallon. This fact will make you feel better.

As a matter of fact, strip it to the frame and have that glass beaded and powder coated and then just put all new parts on it.

That's what I'll eventually do because these ******* have driven me insane. I'm just too unique a person to ride anything else. Evidently so are you.
 
So started messing with the Max. First goal was to get it started. Put the new battery in it and got everything hooked up. It turned over a little slow but then fired up. I let it run until the fan kicked in then cut it off. It sounded pretty good but to start when you twist the throttle it would bog down. Used some sea foam and it got a lot better. After shut down started looking at everything and found one of the wires out of the coil. Looked at the coil closely and it has a cracked in the bottom of it.
 
you can try some silicone caulk and fill the gap also check other coils use a spray bottle with water fine mist turn lights down low and see if any arcing or just replace like I did with Gannons cops..
 
You can find used coils here on the forum for sale, or you can do the COPS mod, and just replace the coils. I would say that is your best option unless you want to keep the bike 100% stock.
 
Went back at it today and it started with little effort. I put my field piece meter on it before starting and had 12.6 volts. The battery is a new agm. I set the choke to run about 2500 and the reading was 12.7 and didn't get any higher. Looks like further testing is needed.
 
Not enough charging voltage for sure. I'm putting my money on your regulator taking a dump.
 
I have a 97, had the low voltage issue, 12.2v at idle. I bypassed the "factory crimp" from the rectifier to the battery. Now I have 14.4v at idle. No More slow or hot start issues. My bike already had a mosfet rectifier which you may want to upgrade to anyways.

Good luck
Sean
 
I did read thru that. It was good.

Today replaced my clutch line with a stainless line. Removed rear fender and grab rail.

Have a rectifier, starter, tail light and seat on the way. Also some other small parts.
 
I did have a question though.

I charged the battery and when I tried the start button the solenoid clicked and the oil and fuel lights came on. It did not try to start.
 
It can happen when the battery is still lacking of cranking power. You should read at least 12.5v. At 12v it usually means you battery still need charging. Also be sure you are in neutral.

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So got the starter and solenoid installed. The bike turned right over. I put a new fuel filter in line. I didn't see any fuel flow. I am gonna take the fuel pump apart tomorrow.

Started working on the tail light mod.
 
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