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Regular Guy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
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Location
Conyers
Hi guys, first post (after reading for hours)! I just bought a 99 Carbon Fiber VMax and I have some questions that the search didn't quite answer The first being that when I rode the bike and then parked it inside the garage, the garage had a STRONG gas smell. So strong that I opened the garage door a tad to circulate some air in there over night. My wife's bike is also stored in the garage and it doesn't emit any gas smell at all. What could this be?


Secondly, I am in the market for a windscreen/windshield posts on here but my main question is do the small ones really even do anything? I like the look better of them but I wonder if it's more of a cosmetic thing or do they actually block wind?

Last question (for now!) is have any of you had your fenders and tank/cover painted? If so, what's the going rate to have just a solid color painted? The previous owner of my bike applied some type of wax to the fenders and tank cover that really hazed it. The "carbon" look is not exactly in full effect. So....I like the look but not the permanent haze or the spot on the back that shows a big spot where the CF pattern is gone.

Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome to the forum for all things Vmax!
The gas smell either means your running way rich or your carbs/ fuel lines may have a leak. Check all the hoses and fittings for tight connections or dry/ brittle lines. The carb experts will chime in if you find all of your fuel lines and connections are good to go.
The small factory screen will block a little but mostly just the chest area. I have a Givi airstars 123 which is a little bigger but still does not block much wind. There are some medium sized shields but I have no experience with them. I used a 20 x 20 windshield on my trip to Newfoundland and it works great for blocking wind, bugs and rain but was too hot on hot days due not enough air flow. I probably will never run it again since I like my Givi just fine for even 3-4 day long trips.
A few of the guys on here have painted their own or you can have a professional job done by Sean Morley (one2dmax on here or Morley Muscle on FB) or Kyle Clegg (Captain Kyle on here or Kyle Clegg on FB). Both these gentlemen will do a superb job and you can go from mild to wild with the paint!
 
X2 on either of the suggested gentlemen do the paint work for you, or any work really. I would completely trust either of them with my bike. Cant go wrong.

I did paint my own with the guidance of others here and it came out damn fantastic, with rattle cans. Just had to use some quality rattle cans from a body shop and 2k/Eastwood clear coat, also in a rattle can. Takes some time, patience and doing but I had the time and inclination to have a go at it.

I do a lot of open road so I picked up a Viper windscreen which is not quite a barn door it sure cuts down on fatigue for long rides. I'll toss a couple pics up of my novice paint project and of the windscreen I got from Ebay for something like $70. It's not overwhelming quality but it was cost effective and it reduces that fighting the wind all the way down the interstate feeling.

Welcome!!
 

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Thanks for the responses so far! Here's a little history of the bike. I am the third owner of the bike. The guy I just bought it from let it sit for a while without riding it due to being really sick (he's a super nice guy and I hope and pray that the gets well). When he decided he could no longer ride, he made the decision to sell the bike. He's owned it for 10 years. The bike has 7830 miles on it. He was meticulous with maintenance other than letting it sit but he had a good reason for that so I'll give him a pass obviously.

When he went to start it recently, it was running rough due to bad gas and the carbs were spitting out fuel from the overflow tubes. So he called the big motorcycle shop in his area and they wanted $500-$800 to clean the carbs and flush the tank. He had a mechanic friend of his step in and take care of it for a fraction of that to help him out. So, as the story goes, the friend took all carbs off and put them in an Ultrasonic cleaner and got them clean as new. Put them back on the bike with new seals and flushed the tank out many times until it was clean. Tuned the carbs, changed the oil and filter and then kept it a week and put a few miles on it, about 50 he said.

I talked to the mechanic friend prior to making the trip to buy the bike and he told me that the carbs may have to be adjusted down the line and said it might even be possible that some residual sediment may find it's way into the carbs. So....I am asking myself now why he didn't dial it in totally when he had it? As for the way it runs, it's a cold starter, I have to choke it a little. When it's warmed up and I ride it, it runs fine. It doesn't spit or sputter but I have not ridden it past 60 MPH yet, I just brought it home Friday night and have no tag or insurance so that will have to wait but I'd LOVE to get this smell issue resolved before my wife makes me park it outside, lol.
 
Thanks for the responses so far! Here's a little history of the bike. I am the third owner of the bike. The guy I just bought it from let it sit for a while without riding it due to being really sick (he's a super nice guy and I hope and pray that the gets well). When he decided he could no longer ride, he made the decision to sell the bike. He's owned it for 10 years. The bike has 7830 miles on it. He was meticulous with maintenance other than letting it sit but he had a good reason for that so I'll give him a pass obviously.

When he went to start it recently, it was running rough due to bad gas and the carbs were spitting out fuel from the overflow tubes. So he called the big motorcycle shop in his area and they wanted $500-$800 to clean the carbs and flush the tank. He had a mechanic friend of his step in and take care of it for a fraction of that to help him out. So, as the story goes, the friend took all carbs off and put them in an Ultrasonic cleaner and got them clean as new. Put them back on the bike with new seals and flushed the tank out many times until it was clean. Tuned the carbs, changed the oil and filter and then kept it a week and put a few miles on it, about 50 he said.

I talked to the mechanic friend prior to making the trip to buy the bike and he told me that the carbs may have to be adjusted down the line and said it might even be possible that some residual sediment may find it's way into the carbs. So....I am asking myself now why he didn't dial it in totally when he had it? As for the way it runs, it's a cold starter, I have to choke it a little. When it's warmed up and I ride it, it runs fine. It doesn't spit or sputter but I have not ridden it past 60 MPH yet, I just brought it home Friday night and have no tag or insurance so that will have to wait but I'd LOVE to get this smell issue resolved before my wife makes me park it outside, lol.

It might be that the floats have been set just a bit rich, or there might be just a bit of sediment caught up making the floats a bit rich.

Unfortunately this is a common story with the Vmax. Someone taking the bike to a Vmax guru.......Yamaha mechanic.....or Bob up the street that has owned 15 Vmax's and turns low 10's in the quarter mile on a stock Vmax (all of which dont know crap about a Vmax). One of the reasons this forum has such great information is that people here had to learn to work on their own bikes because the Vmax is a completely different animal, and is set up a bit differently from most bikes.

I am a big fan of BG-44 as a fuel system cleaner. You can get it from some mechanics....or online. You ONLY add 3-4 ounces to a full tank....otherwise it will eat stuff. If that doesnt help with the carbs, the best Vmax carb guy that i know is Dannymax (you can see his banner at the bottom of the page.....BRC carb shop) He can take care of ALL of your carb woes.

So my recommendation right now, BG-44, take the bike out, and run the piss out of it, and then see how the gas smell is.
 
Welcome to the forum & thanks guys for the nice words. I can help you with your paint or carbs . Here are a couple pictures of some of my work. If you want to shoot me an email [email protected]
 

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Welcome to the forum. If you're in Conyers , GA. , we are very close. I can help with a local carb guy over in Greyson , about 30 minutes away , but I would take the guys advice and run a few tanks through it first. It's supposed to be about 70 today and I'm planning a little ride with a few stops for refreshment and b.s. with the H.D. boys. You might enjoy it if you like.
Sorry , re-read your post about no tag or insurance.
 
Welcome. I run the national cycles windshield. It bolts directly to the top triple tree bolts, and is on and off in a couple minutes. Otherwise I run the factory small flyscreen. It's way windier, but it looks sweet.
 
Welcome to the forum & thanks guys for the nice words. I can help you with your paint or carbs . Here are a couple pictures of some of my work. If you want to shoot me an email [email protected]

Damn thats a fine paint job, way above my skill level with all the retro enduro Yamaha stripes, love that workmanship.

So on the carbs, the guy "tuned" them, and in my experience this could be anything from carefully set float levels, lovingly synched them up and dialed in the AF screws to run it's best... or it means he put them back on the bike, set AF at 2 turns and walked away. For mine there were significant gains to be had by getting the carbs dialed in correctly.

Are you going to be doing your own repairs/maintenance, and does the bike have any modifications?
 
Damn thats a fine paint job, way above my skill level with all the retro enduro Yamaha stripes, love that workmanship.

So on the carbs, the guy "tuned" them, and in my experience this could be anything from carefully set float levels, lovingly synched them up and dialed in the AF screws to run it's best... or it means he put them back on the bike, set AF at 2 turns and walked away. For mine there were significant gains to be had by getting the carbs dialed in correctly.

Are you going to be doing your own repairs/maintenance, and does the bike have any modifications?

As for what the mechanic did, I don't know for sure. I just know he took them off, cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner, reinstalled with new seals and adjusted them. Don't know to what extent unfortunately. The bike is bone stock, not one mod at all. Maintenance will be done by me for things I am comfortable with doing, otherwise it'll be outsourced to a capable person.
 
Welcome. I run the national cycles windshield. It bolts directly to the top triple tree bolts, and is on and off in a couple minutes. Otherwise I run the factory small flyscreen. It's way windier, but it looks sweet.

Can you provide a link for the National Cycles one you bought? That's what's on my wife's bike. I see different sizes available.
 
Welcome from a new (<2 years) guy. Great wisdom here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Can you provide a link for the National Cycles one you bought? That's what's on my wife's bike. I see different sizes available.
I don't see it on their site. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Maybe it's not NC. Someone will know when I have pics.
Can you provide a link for the National Cycles one you bought? That's what's on my wife's bike. I see different sizes available.
 
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Okay guys, I need your help :)

I talked to the mechanic and told him where the gas was leaking from and he says it's coming from the drain tube, says that the screw on the bowl is not closed all the way and told me to back it out a tad and then tighten it. He said that's the issue with the gas smell, not a tuning issue.

So, with that said. I googled and attempted to find the screw needed. Can someone tell me if this is the one I need to be finagling with?

shotgun4.jpg


It's a google picture, not my bike. Forgive me for asking silly questions but I just don't want to risk turning the wrong screw :p
 
If he said float bowl drain screw, then that's the one. Fuel will come out that little black tube under your screen driver,though. Danny has the o-rings if you need them. There is one on that screw to hold the fuel in.
 
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