New vmax owner headshake

[jfeagins]

This would fix it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-90V-15-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abc9f149f&vxp=mtr
not the longest lasting tread on the market, but IMO the best looking, and also what Mother Yamaha shipped on at least half the new 85's when new.

or the cheepo Stinko method
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-90V-15-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0553d681&vxp=mtr
Not sure how this tire lasts, but I actually put a Shinko on my bike for the first time ever a few weeks ago, and will see how the mileage works out for the bucks I saved.

Not sure who installed your existing tire, but have you checked it's seat? May be just needs dismounted and remounted to seat up to the rim properly to get rid of most, if not all, the run-out? Like I said before, I've had a couple over the years that were bad from brand new and just had a slight run-out.

 

[DMAN999]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-90V-15-D...9f149f&vxp=mtr
not the longest lasting tread on the market, but IMO the best looking, and also what Mother Yamaha shipped on at least half the new 85's when new.

I like the looks of that Tire too, but you couldn't Pay me to buy another Dunlop Rear for my Max.
They have a Very bad tendency to Slip out on corners and it only lasted about 5000 Miles.
So if all you want to do is Burnouts or drive in Straight lines, I guess it would work well for you.
I tought it was just me being too hard on the Bike in corners until I tried a different Rear Tire.

I used to Run Michelin M50 Rears (until they stoopped making them) and they were good but the Shinko is the Best Cornering Rear Tire I have ever used in my 11 years on my Max.
I get about 4600-5000 miles out of them (my last 3 wre Shinko TM 230's), with Zero Burnouts but Lots of Hard Launches.

I have never run the Mezteler ME880 Rear but most people that do really like them.
I personally wold try remounting the Metzeler (if it has enough tread to be worth saving) and see if that helps before getting a new tire.

 

[one2dmax]

The wheels are pretty light. Not sure on the ship cost but might be in the $100 range?

 

[Saint]

The metz 880s only have 1500 km on them, they look new. The reason I bought these 880s was because a had the wobble with the dunlops. So unless both sets of tires were seated wrong it must be something else.
Ok thanks Sean I will let you know.

 

[m-cman]

Do you know the history of your Max? Any chance it has been in a wreck? I would very carefully inspect the bike. Look at the stops on the triple tree to see if any damage. Look over the frame and swingarm for small dents or scrapes. The rear tire should not have run-out. Mine didn't with the stock wheel/tire or my Kosman/radial setup. Are your swingarm bearings OK? With the low mileage, you should not be having these problems!

 

[Saint]

I can't see any signs of a wreck, it's in great shape and came from my local yamaha dealer as a consignment bike. I think I was the first person to take a wrench to the bike (aside from oil). I want to upgrade wheels and springs front and back, not only for the wobble but for performance. I'm 26 with a mortgage so I'm trying to pick which upgrades to do first that may impact my wobble, since I am on a budget.
Thanks for all the replies guys it is giving me lots to think about

 

[jfeagins]

Have you examined your wheel to see exactly where the run-out is coming from yet? Tire, or wheel? This could be as simple as dismounting, then remounting a tire to fix. $0.00

 

[Saint]

Not exactly, when I spin the wheel by hand with the engine off, it looks fine. When its running in gear it looks like a runout. It is supposed to be warm this weekend (snowing in Alberta today) so I'm going to a friends to see if I can hold the bike still while he looks for a runout. I still think I saw the runout because the entire bike was rocking. I'll check the swing arm bearing tonight but the back end feels solid. zero play in the rear wheel. Also, contrary to some, the lower my tire pressure is the more stable it is at speed. Same with my fork psi, at 10+ psi in the forks my wobble is there at 160, dropped it to 5psi and im good to 175-185 before it starts. (kph)

 

[jfeagins]

I'll bet it ain't your swing arm bearings. The lower the tire pressure, the cooshier the sidewalls, and better for the tire to absorb some of the side to side energy being created as you ride.....aka, you ain't going to feel it as much.

All the other stuff you do to keep your bike in tip top condition only helps you control what's happening with that tire/wheel problem you have. Fix the actual problem, and you can quit trying to bandage the whole bike....just sayin.

If you only lived closer to MO, I'd swap out back wheels with you some weekend and let you see if that don't fix what ails your bike.

High speed wobble sucks, but stick with it, and you'll get it fixed.

 

[Saint]

Rear tire definitely has a small run-out. I ran it again just in first gear except I sat on the bike to hold it still and had my girlfriend keep an eye on the back tire along with me. So, is this something I can fix by releasing all the tire pressure and moving the tire by hand? or should I just take the whole wheel off and pay a shop to remount and balance again?
I'm still bothered by the fact that my last set of tires had the wobble too..does that mean they could've had run-out too or could this still be something else?

 

[m-cman]

I don't believe in coincidences. I highly doubt both rear tires would have the same problem. It seems to me there is a wheel, swingarm or axle problem. If it has never been wrecked as you were told, this is really difficult to diagnose without seeing. Are there any good dealers/mechanics in your area? :ummm:

 

[jfeagins]

:bang head: :bang head: :bang head:

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Saint
dumb question but did the po have weights on the wheels or dyna beads? I had dyna beads in a set of loaner wheels & put them on & had a nasty vibration & head shake . I broke the tire beads down vaccumed out the dyna beads & was like night n day w/ out t any weights, took to a shop & had wheels ballanced like new again no wobble/head shake or vibration . May or maynot be your issue just letting you know my issue I had . Good Luck any wobble or vibration sux & isn't a pleasant feeling when driving hard.

 

[Saint]

There is lots of mechanics but who knows if they're good. I don't think I have dyna beads the shop that mounted the metzelers didn't say anything about them. I pull really hard on the rear wheel off the ground up and down, side to side, and there is zero play. the whole bike moves on the centerstand when I pull and there is no looseness. But sitting in the seat running the bike in gear on the centerstand, I can see about 1/4inch to 1/2inch of runout on the tire. I know there is an acceptable amount of runout for all bikes but this seems like more.

 

[DMAN999]

Did you remove the Wheel and Inspect the Axle, Bearings, etc and also make sure it's Installed Properly.
I'd also check the Shaft and Middle Gears for proper alignment, since you said it only happens when it's in gear.

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Bent drive shaft? Nvr heard of it but nothing possible. Ujoints?

 

[srk468]

Bent drive shaft? Nvr heard of it but nothing possible. Ujoints?

I had a bent driveshaft, no vibrations from it though... If I wouldn't have extended my swingarm I'd have never known...

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

[Saint]

Everything went back together nicely and looked fine. I suppose the next step is to take it apart again and inspect. Lets say everything looks ok once apart, then I remount the tire on rim?

 

[Saint]

The bike has no vibrations (aside from awesome V4'ness). I just get a high speed side to side wobble.

 

[one2dmax]

A bad tire (or wheel) can be very difficult to feel much past walking speed (which is hard to do with two wheels anyway). A runout on the wheel and tire needs to be done with the wheel off the bike. It can be done on the bike but this could have other factors that you want to eliminate.

A simple pair of jackstands and your axle will suffice. Spin the wheel and hold a screwdriver (or other stick) and see how much it has. The wheel should have no more then .020"-.050" of runout (or less preferably). The tire should also have minimal runout.