Newbie with a few questions.

[snakecharmr]

Well just bit the bullet after wanting a max for well over a decade. Unfortunately as funds are tight I've got an 85 that needs some work. Hoping there are a few people on here that might be able to point me in the right direction.

Bike has 15,000kms on it. Generally well taken care of from what I can see but some backyard mechanic fixin has gone on. Stage 7 jet kit with individual K&N filters. Modded stock exhaust.

Prob 1 - No pressure in the clutch even after bleeding it for 45mins (by hand) I can get a bit of pressure for a few minutes then nothing. No noticable leaks either but had to fill the reservoir up a few times during the process.

Prob 2 - Vboost is apparently been modded so that it is on all the time and would like reverse this as the P.O. says he is only getting 150kms on a tank and I figure this is one of the reasons.

Prob 3 - P.O. had a faulty voltage regulator and replaced it with one off a newer sportbike and relocated it under one of the faux intakes. Is this ok?

Prob 4 -P.O. wired in a toggle for the electric cooling fan, his reason was that the fan wasn't coming on in traffic... How to I fix this so I don't have to worry about flipping the toggle and put it back to an automatic deal.

Thanks if anyone decides to help and I would just like to say that I've learned a lot searching the site and reading through info for the past year.

 

[desert_max]

WELCOME TO THE SITE!

1) Clutch master cylinder may be suspect (or slave) - assuming your bleeding process is correct.

2) Just so happens I'm parting out an '85 and have all the "stuff" to restore VBoost operation.

3) The sportbike regulator is probably OK - if it is "regulating" alternator output to a maximum of about 14 volts. (Again, I have all the electrics to restore to stock).

4) A manual fan switch is never a bad idea on a VMax, but the factory temperature switch is under the right scope. (Guess what, I have that assembly and/or switch).

Shameless link to my ad (but seriously, me or someone else parting one out sounds like exactly what you need):

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=32156

 

[Traumahawk]

Bike has 15,000kms on it. Generally well taken care of from what I can see but some backyard mechanic fixin has gone on. Stage 7 jet kit with individual K&N filters. Modded stock exhaust.

Prob 1 - No pressure in the clutch even after bleeding it for 45mins (by hand) I can get a bit of pressure for a few minutes then nothing. No noticable leaks either but had to fill the reservoir up a few times during the process. Sometimes that happens....you can read numerous post about hard to bleed clutches, most people have good luck with reverse bleeding. Using a syringe with tubing on it, and pushing fluids backwards up into the clutch master cylinder.

Prob 2 - Vboost is apparently been modded so that it is on all the time and would like reverse this as the P.O. says he is only getting 150kms on a tank and I figure this is one of the reasons. Well the V-boost controller is under the left scoop. There is a round connection I believe with 6 to 8 pins, both pieces should be right there...and just reconnect. ALSO...the stage seven carbs might not run too well with the stock exhaust, you MIGHT need to rejet back to stock...and believe me...its not hard, this forum will have ANY information that you need.

Prob 3 - P.O. had a faulty voltage regulator and replaced it with one off a newer sportbike and relocated it under one of the faux intakes. Is this ok? It should be fine, just look at the wiring, and make certain that the PO did a good job, and didnt just twist stuff together.

Prob 4 -P.O. wired in a toggle for the electric cooling fan, his reason was that the fan wasn't coming on in traffic... How to I fix this so I don't have to worry about flipping the toggle and put it back to an automatic deal. Ive never had dealings with this....but the info is in this forum, and this is a fairly common mod. Its normal for the fan NOT to come on until the temp almost hits redline. THIS is NORMAL.

Thanks if anyone decides to help and I would just like to say that I've learned a lot searching the site and reading through info for the past year.

Your very welcome....and there are great people on this forum, and ANY problem that you have with a Vmax, the knowledge and experience is here on the forum to fix it.

 

[desert_max]

Difficult bleeders can sometimes be done using gravity.

Open the reservoir, top it off - and keep an eye on it. Here's why:

Crack the bleeder screw and just leave it open. Gravity should keep fluid moving down and as long as you don't let the reservoir go dry, you should eventually get fluid from end to end. It's slow, but it works - but you cannot let the reservoir go empty.

 

[VMAX1260]

WELCOME TO THE SITE!

1) Clutch master cylinder may be suspect (or slave) - assuming your bleeding process is correct.

2) Just so happens I'm parting out an '85 and have all the "stuff" to restore VBoost operation.

3) The sportbike regulator is probably OK - if it is "regulating" alternator output to a maximum of about 14 volts. (Again, I have all the electrics to restore to stock).

4) A manual fan switch is never a bad idea on a VMax, but the factory temperature switch is under the right scope. (Guess what, I have that assembly and/or switch).

Shameless link to my ad (but seriously, me or someone else parting one out sounds like exactly what you need):

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=32156

+1
for bleeding the clutch i had problems doing it manualy so then was time for a syringe ... i put some dot 4 in the cup , connect a hose one side to the slave clutch cylinder (the one that is down to the engine where you bleed) and the other side to a syringe.open the bleeding valve and with the syringe i pull the fluid in from the cup. you have to watch the cup not to be left out of fluid cause air is gonna go in the system. hope that help i am sure it will

 

[snakecharmr]

Thanks for the advice so far.. So how do I know if I need a whole new vboost system or if something is somehow disconnected and jimmy rigged? gonna try that bleeding process tomorrow.. Unfortunately I have to store my bike about 20 mins away at a fellow riders house as my garage fell down..lol

 

[marsmax85]

Your vboost might just be unplugged in the open vboost setting look for connection left scoop as you sit on max also check vin #for longest lasting vmax thread . There's a lot of great reading to do here .basically look under forum search and use key words . you will save more money with this crowd but look out for the mod monkey !! He or She will eat at your wallet

 

[snakecharmr]

Your vboost might just be unplugged in the open vboost setting look for connection left scoop as you sit on max also check vin #for longest lasting vmax thread . There's a lot of great reading to do here .basically look under forum search and use key words . you will save more money with this crowd but look out for the mod monkey !! He or She will eat at your wallet

Oh I already have some mods planned for it.. Mainly from looking on this site..lol Mostly just making it my own. P.O. put a real crappy rattle can paint job on and put some "racing" stipes on with what looks like electrical tape..lol any max deserves better than this but I'm sure I will catch hell over my plans for the paint as I did when I've done it to my last bike as well.. But never again will I have to worry about a paint chip...:rofl_200:

 

[9.nub]

Thanks for the advice so far.. So how do I know if I need a whole new vboost system or if something is somehow disconnected and jimmy rigged? gonna try that bleeding process tomorrow.. Unfortunately I have to store my bike about 20 mins away at a fellow riders house as my garage fell down..lol

The stage 7 jet kit specs that the vboost be disabled with butterflies full open. My new to me also has this jet kit and the PO ditched the system entirely. I'm in the process of cleaning up the carbs, but my plan is to dyno the bike before determining how I will proceed. I love the vboost concept, but if my bike is getting the right mix throughout the RPM band ... I'm just gonna miss out on the 6 grand surge. Mine does have a 4-1 Hindle exhaust.

I'm prepared to install a fan override switch on mine - I don't like the idea of flirting with redline while facing Texas Traffic in August.

Good luck with the clutch bleed. Disappearing fluid bugs me - so if she doesn't go solid and stay there, look at the slave and the hydraulic line. You'd see any fluid seeping from the master.

 

[davesax36]

With stock exhaust, you should get rid of that stage 7 kit and put on a stock box. Or get a full exhaust system. You're gonna get terrible mileage and all sorts of other (relatively) crappy performance with that much fuel and air going into the system without any way for the motor to blow it out. Pushing fluid UP through the clutch system is gonna get you what you want.
OH, and welcome to the forum.

 

[snakecharmr]

I do plan on a full exhaust when funds allow.. hopefully before spring

Is everyone with Stage 7 disabling there vboost?

 

[Traumahawk]

From what I know of...yes....if you have stage 7...then V-boost is disabled. Most people dont completely take it out...they just disconnect the connection under the left scoop, so the V-boost butterflies will be open all of the time. That way they can still put the connection back together and close the butterflies when it comes time to re sync the carbs.

 

[snakecharmr]

From what I know of...yes....if you have stage 7...then V-boost is disabled. Most people dont completely take it out...they just disconnect the connection under the left scoop, so the V-boost butterflies will be open all of the time. That way they can still put the connection back together and close the butterflies when it comes time to re sync the carbs.

I'm having a panic attack just thinking about trying to sync those carbs...lol

 

[Traumahawk]

I'm having a panic attack just thinking about trying to sync those carbs...lol

LOL...again...not a problem...and with the right tool, takes less than 5 minutes. I GUARANTEE it.

 

[Traumahawk]

I personally use the morgan carbtune.... http://www.carbtune.com/

right now it goes for 58 pounds UK, but you might be able to find someone in the area that has one....I take it that your from across the pond?

 

[snakecharmr]

I personally use the morgan carbtune.... http://www.carbtune.com/

right now it goes for 58 pounds UK, but you might be able to find someone in the area that has one....I take it that your from across the pond?

Yup from Charing Cross, Ontario, Canada.. but in this day and age almost anything can be had on both sides.

 

[Traumahawk]

Yup from Charing Cross, Ontario, Canada.. but in this day and age almost anything can be had on both sides.

LOL...when I looked up Charing Cross, the first place that popped up was London. LOL...you might have to pay some extra shipping then...or ebay. Usually people on this forum have either the motion pro carb sync, or the morgan carb tune. Ive had both, and I prefer the morgan....but its more expensive as well.

There are quite a few people on this forum from up north.

 

[timscues]

If you take the vboost out it will be harder to synch the carbs, I put mi e on a switch to run it normal or open

 

[snakecharmr]

One of the guys at the garage last night did the reverse bleed on the clutch and he just checked it and it's still holding pressure.. seems that issue is taken care of. I'll get over there today to take it for a rip and see what else I'm looking at now..

 

[snakecharmr]

Forgot to add a few pics of it as it sits..