Noob to thread. Engine rebuild

[mvmccreary]

Hey all!

So. I have inherited my grandfather's 94 Vmax a couple years ago. I've been riding it since I was 18 so about 6 years, so I'm fairly well acquainted with the max. But the has 127,xxx miles on it all original and all stock. The only work done was some carb work at the dealership. Now my dad found metal shavings in the oil and is freaking out about rebuilding it. I've been all over this site and haven't found much info on rebuilding the engine. So I have no idea what to expect and no idea what I'll need to replace or do once she's apart or what I "should" do while in there (mods, etc). My only help is a shop Manuel so can you nice people give a boon some advice.

Matt

 

[timscues]

Try contacting Jon at pcw or Sean with Morleys

 

[KJShover]

Damon is a member here. He's made a nice and thorough video on rebuilding the Vmax engine and another for doing the carbs. Sometimes he has them up on eBay, but I'm sure he can give you the hook up if you PM him as well.

+1 on Sean Morley or John Ganey at PCW

 

[MaxMidnight]

The biggest issue you will probably have is the weight - it's heavy lump.

To get it out of the frame disconnect everything and remove the carbs; removing the middle gear output side makes matters a little easier but it isn't essential.

I lash a stout pole between the V and lift out with the help of an assistant.

If you don't have a suitable bench then a small trolley is useful to put the motor on as it allows you to move it about if required.

Stripping is quite straightforward and few special tools required - clutch holding tool, valve bucket depressor (to set valve clearance) and long allen key socket to remove head bolts spring to mind.

You could spend a fortune on re-building so your issue will differentiating between what must , what should and what could be replaced.

Do a full costing of the re-build before buying any parts.
The pennies soon add up so a good lower mileage motor may be a consideration.

 

[mvmccreary]

Thanks guys I'm going try to get up with Sean I have read a few times he's the man to talk to. And I'll think about that video it might come in handy

 

[Traumahawk]

Here is a link to a thread that has Damons videos and the like...he cut me a deal because I bought the carb video and the engine video.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=28760

 

[gamorg02]

what kind of metal shavings?

 

[srk468]

what kind of metal shavings?

I was gonna ask the same thing, I get crud out of mine quite often... Is the engine knocking or running funny at all? Might be from clutch wear but that is a lot of miles... If its not knocking or running bad I'd keep an eye on the oil and ride it for awhile longer...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Even if you farm the work out to someone Damon's engine video is a great learning tool just to know the ins and outs of this motor and see what's involved.

If the motor ain't busted and all you want to do is freshen it up I think you can get away with replacing all the bearings, a mild bore and new pistons and rings, new cam chains, and new valve seals too.
Some might say just a hone and new rings if the cylinders are still "in spec" without having to bore it and they'd be right as well as long as the cylinders aren't too worn.

If I was going that far then I would also freshen the heads by at least lapping the valve seats, replacing the valve guides if need be.

Where it gets crazy is the incredible urge to go nuts once its apart and start making mods like big bore, better rods, bigger cams, valve springs, head porting, better oiling system etc.
Undercutting the tranny is always worth the time too.

Plus depending on the year making updates to known failure points like the older shift drum thing, 4 pole starter, newer 2nd gear parts and a few others I'm sure I'm forgetting.

I second the recommendation on Sean Morley. He won't steer you wrong and is a standup guy.
I could not have done my motor without his help in planing and acquisition of parts, coordinating the machine work, and Damon's video for assembly.

Go to the motor forum and just dig deep in the older posts and you'll learn plenty, it just takes time and a lot of reading to sort the wheat from the chaff.

 

[PATMAX]

Just sell the current engine and buy a low mile replacement. Issue is you have more to change if going to a late model engine as some things changed electronically but nothing radical. Personally, I see upgraded motors for sale occassionally with all the good mods and ready for another 127,xxx miles but with more power. Only reason to be doing the rebuild yourself is because you don't have the tools and experience OR don't have the $ to farm out the rebuild. Either way, it ain't cheap but do what you feel comfortable with.
Keep us updated!

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Just sell the current engine and buy a low mile replacement. Issue is you have more to change if going to a late model engine as some things changed electronically but nothing radical. Personally, I see upgraded motors for sale occassionally with all the good mods and ready for another 127,xxx miles but with more power. Only reason to be doing the rebuild yourself is because you don't have the tools and experience OR don't have the $ to farm out the rebuild. Either way, it ain't cheap but do what you feel comfortable with.
Keep us updated!

If you just want a fresh bike and for it to run like it should without spending a ton this is probably the best way to go....Even a cheap rebuild done by you will prolly run a grand or more by the time all the dust settles....and thats a best case scenario and replacing almost nothing but bearings and rings and giving it a hone only perhaps....

 

[mvmccreary]

Wow, thanks for all the advice guys. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I've been emailing Sean, and everyone was right, he is the man! So I'll recap whats been going on. After contacting Sean he suggested to get the oil analyzed to see exactly what is in my oil and what the fragments are. The majority of my time was spent waiting for the kit to come in the mail. I mailed it yesterday and it should be there tomorrow and hopefully they will email me the results around dinner. I'll post them if I'm able. With that out of the way the metal seemed to be brass so Sean suggested I drop the oil pan and look for a spun bearing. With my buddy's help we did (after strugging with the exhaust) and inspected the pan. There were no signs of metal to be found so it seems that the filter is catching most of it. And my plan in the near future, is to pull a couple of the pluming parts and inspect the bearings from underneath to see how she is holding up. HOPEFULLY, all is good and I'll be able to replace my exhaust and I do not know much else but maybe a HD oiling kit (and I'm assuming that means high density?:ummm. Until then I'm praying to the motorcycle God's that I'll be on the road in a few weeks and I'll have Sean to thank! (I will be mailing him a gift of some kind for being so generous with his knowledge, and donating to this website for it being so awesome). But I'll keep you all posted on what happens next and maybe even some pictures? hmmm:ummm:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

HD = Heavy Duty or Hardly Movingson, pick one... :rofl_200:

 

[mvmccreary]

I think I'll pick the heavy duty, ha ha. So this is where I'm at. I just got the email from the lab, and they say the oil is consistent with other engine with that many miles on it and nothing stood out to them, or threw any red flags but they want a couple more samples since this oil didn't have many miles on it because once we saw metal we parked it. I did try to inspect the bearings but I chickened out because I didn't want to mess anything up. I did take some pictures that I'll post up in a few minutes.

 

[mvmccreary]

This is the guts, the one picture shows the an oring that is hanging out? I'm assuming i should but it in there the correct way so its not hanging out. Otherwise, I'm in good shape :clapping:

 

[m-cman]

That o-ring is a common problem. Putting it back in is not the fix as it will just pop out again. There are several fixes but I just purchased the latest version of the oil delivery assembly that the o-ring is attached to. I will attach pics of my original and new assembly and you will see the difference. The new part is on the left. You can see it won't let the o-ring drop down as far and forces it a little farther into the fitting. Yamaha updated the assembly sometime around 2003 I think.

 

[mvmccreary]

That o-ring is a common problem. Putting it back in is not the fix as it will just pop out again. There are several fixes but I just purchased the latest version of the oil delivery assembly that the o-ring is attached to. I will attach pics of my original and new assembly and you will see the difference. The new part is on the left. You can see it won't let the o-ring drop down as far and forces it a little farther into the fitting. Yamaha updated the assembly sometime around 2003 I think.

Thanks for sharing, the newer one looks makes a little more sense to me, where'd you pick it up at? And have you noticed any changes in your engine/performance?

 

[gamorg02]

i couldn't get the 'kawi' oring to go in mine so i picked up a 25 pack of viton o-rings that fit in there pretty nice. if you want one pm me your addr and i'll drop one in the mail.

i also put a COO stopper on the bottom of mine. basically a delrin boot instead of the oem hard rubber. won't compact. overkill and a lot of $$ for what you get, but a blown engine is more... my $.02

 

[m-cman]

Thanks for sharing, the newer one looks makes a little more sense to me, where'd you pick it up at? And have you noticed any changes in your engine/performance?

It is an OEM part. I got it from K&N in Tulsa. Do a search on this forum for info. Best price on OEM Yamaha parts I have found. No change in performance. Just makes sure oil pressure and flow are as designed. Worst case I have seen on the o-ring issue is a blown engine on an almost new Max about 12 years or so ago. Friend worked at Yamaha dealership related the story to me. First I had heard of the o-ring problem.

 

[mvmccreary]

if you want one pm me your addr and i'll drop one in the mail.

PM Sent. Thanks man that will save me .02 cents :eusa_dance: and I'll insert it some where else, maybe on this thread haha. But I'm glad mine motor hasnt blown up I know no one has been above the oil pan since it's been bought