Oil Pick Up HD Grommet Replace How-To

[tothemax93]

Its a bit of a tight fit. Twist and pull and it will come. No real reason to remove it though.

I got it out. Theres an o-ring holding it. I tapped it out from the inside. Taking it out allowed me to take the pan completely out/ off for cleaning up and made scraping the gasket easier.

 

[tothemax93]

Put my kawasaki o-ring in today. I followed special ops post (thank You). Here's my question. Does this look fully seated. I think it is. the bottom ring is pretty much flush. it looks about the same as when I took it apart, except the squished out o-ring. I'm asking because, It didn't take to much effort to get it where it is. I half placed it in and snugged up the 3 bolts to get it lined up. I looked at it after snugging the bolts, figuring I'd half to do some pushing, and it was in where it is now. I pushed on it a little, and it feels like its bottoming out. I was convinced that it couldn't be right because of the comments about the difficulty of putting this in. I took it back apart. popped out the pipe and started over. I had the same result. The pipe and new o-ring went in with little effort. I think its good, but I want some other opinions. If there's any question about the o-ring. Its part no 92055-1147

 

[one2dmax]

Looks right to me.

 

[AMechEng]

I just did mine 30 minutes ago. I got the same result. I was pushing hard on it and it ended up in the same exact position. I placed a washer inside the rubber support that goes on the other side of that piece to place additional pressure on the joint once the oil pan is back in. You may want to consider that. I also found replacing the o-ring easy. So far the hardest part of the process for me was replacing the oil drive gear to up the pressure. The area where the gear is is just really tight.

 

[tothemax93]

I just did mine 30 minutes ago. I got the same result. I was pushing hard on it and it ended up in the same exact position. I placed a washer inside the rubber support that goes on the other side of that piece to place additional pressure on the joint once the oil pan is back in. You may want to consider that. I also found replacing the o-ring easy. So far the hardest part of the process for me was replacing the oil drive gear to up the pressure. The area where the gear is is just really tight.

So you put a small washer inside the grommet,(puck) that goes on the bottom of the pipe. I haven't heard of that one, but I could see it working.

 

[dannymax]

any more info on that valve shim danny? first i heard of it?

I used a #215 Kawasaki valve shim but any small metal puck that fits inside the recess in the bottom of the elbow and is .100" - .125" thick will work fine.

Also used a small dob of hondabond on both sides of the shim to keep it in place....after cleaning the contact surfaces with denatured.

 

[AMechEng]

So you put a small washer inside the grommet,(puck) that goes on the bottom of the pipe. I haven't heard of that one, but I could see it working.

Ya I figure it will compress that rubber piece more and put more pressure on the metal tube.

 

[dannymax]

I just did mine 30 minutes ago. I got the same result. I was pushing hard on it and it ended up in the same exact position. I placed a washer inside the rubber support that goes on the other side of that piece to place additional pressure on the joint once the oil pan is back in. You may want to consider that. I also found replacing the o-ring easy. So far the hardest part of the process for me was replacing the oil drive gear to up the pressure. The area where the gear is is just really tight.

Be careful about keeping the revs down until the oil has heated and thinned, the hi-pressure by-pass can't react quick enough to rpm spikes.

 

[95spfldmax]

I have my "T" shaped tube all losened up but as I suspected the other tube connected to the oil pump is in the way of getting the oring out. Do I need to pull the oil pump? I didn't read anything about that requirement. Or am I missing something?

 

[tothemax93]

Just did this. As I got from spec ops thread. Loose the three allen bolts on oil pump an eighth to a quarter inch. That will give you enough room to pull the tube down and rotate it over. After I rotated it over I just pulled that section of pipe out of the assembly. Then it was easy to change the o-ring.

 

[95spfldmax]

Here's the shrapnel shot. This was in my pick-up screen. Seems like a bit too much metal especially for a motor that claims to have 13K miles. Seems to be a combo of steel & alloy. Tell me your thoughts................

 

[Redbone]

Is it all just fine bits? Possibly from transmission issue?

 

[95spfldmax]

Is it all just fine bits? Possibly from transmission issue?

Mostly.....a couple small "shards" maybe 1/4"L x 1/16".....put them in the upper right area..............

 

[95spfldmax]

BTW Danny.......
The oring is OEM & orange.............

 

[tothemax93]

Here's the shrapnel shot. This was in my pick-up screen. Seems like a bit too much metal especially for a motor that claims to have 13K miles. Seems to be a combo of steel & alloy. Tell me your thoughts................

Did the cover over the pick-up screen just pop off?

 

[dannymax]

BTW Danny.......
The oring is OEM & orange.............

Glad to hear it Mike! :clapping:

 

[95spfldmax]

Did the cover over the pick-up screen just pop off?

It did......Tried to wedge it off with screw driver handle on front & sides...then just grabbed by hand from back side and it popped off NP.....popped back on NP too.....

 

[95spfldmax]

Glad to hear it Mike! :clapping:

What's your thoughts on the quantity and shapes of pieces??