Okay I got my self the Gen 1 Buza forks, but now where I find the triple clamps...???

[Patineto]

Oh i have some experience with that..

the plate coming from.the final drive runs a bicycle speedo (cateye ATC800) the only speedo that has no speed limit..

I regear Golem with two steps down of the final drive andbl the original runs a Hall sensor for the pickup..

 

[Fire-medic]

Looks well-used! Wrestling something in the dirt that big/heavy is not something I'd easily do and I'm > 200 lbs.

The only BMW I had was a nearly-new R100RT (7K miles) a 60th anniversary edition, equipped with a Luftmeister ceramic-coated 2/1, KONI shocks, Forking by Frank downtubes, twin-sparkplugs/cylinder, DYNA coils, Michelins (it had 2 opposed-piston Brembos stock) and I can't recall what-else. It would easily bring the front wheel as-high as you wanted. It pissed-off a lot of the H-D crowd because it usually would pull them, though a $$$$ built H-D could beat it. I sold it to a friend, and he's still got it.

 

[Patineto]

Looks well-used! Wrestling something in the dirt that big/heavy is not something I'd easily do and I'm > 200 lbs.

The only BMW I had was a nearly-new R100RT (7K miles) a 60th anniversary edition, equipped with a Luftmeister ceramic-coated 2/1, KONI shocks, Forking by Frank downtubes, twin-sparkplugs/cylinder, DYNA coils, Michelins (it had 2 opposed-piston Brembos stock) and I can't recall what-else. It would easily bring the front wheel as-high as you wanted. It pissed-off a lot of the H-D crowd because it usually would pull them, though a $$$$ built H-D could beat it. I sold it to a friend, and he's still got it.

CCProducts [san jose bmw] was legendary..


I help with two $12.000 engine rebuild with falicon rods, forget piston, 114mm bore 2/3 of the stroke but 2000 more rpms, custum ti valves, keppers, fsr 41 flatslides bired to 46mm, freaking monsters, really hard to ride in the dirt do to the 1/4 trottle twist, but at WOT the run like a dakar racer from the era..[we got the secret sause from Hpn]


Personally i just love the longevity on the older boxers, they never let me down

ActUally the very day this pictures where taken i was teaching a class in the morning and later a 200miles dirtbike "race" with the only two preproduction ktm 950's in the country with ktm rally racers..


Wow they are so much faster but i keep up, then from clear creek to san francisco (100 or so milles on freeway) the engine start to make funny noises because like a dummy the heads where totally cake in clay and distord the heads, so project golem was gone..


Shame my goal was to crash the bike a 100times in a year and i only got to do 96, some easy, other totally epic with back flips, loops and the whole thing

Hand lace 21" by me, 18" rear, front rim cut and widden by jp morgen a ex Kosman fabricator and then lace by me, hack the swingarm for clearance with a 4.5 110v grinder from a toyota 4x4

We really did some crazy stuff back then, but i broke my spine in 2015 [walking on stupid black ice] six spine fusion later im relegated to ride a vmax in boring minnesota because if i crash one more time i be paralize for life

 

[Patineto]

One more related question, the steering bearings are wasted, do i need to take the taper races from the frame and replace the rest or the cups need to come out..

 

[Patineto]

on this one i was going up hill, the shick bottom up and launch up and forward and golem did a back flip and land like this..

Ps: never ever ride alone in the Dirt, you just never know, i have lost a few dear friends because playing the Macho Man BS

 

[Fire-medic]

Remove the outer races.

I've posted about doing this and many other people too. Yamaha did not make the outer bearing removal as-easy as it could be. The problem lies primarily in the removal of the lower outer race.

Thoughtful manufacturers grind a small depression at the shoulder where the outer bearing sits in the steering head, either top or bottom. They do two, 180 degrees-apart. This permits a long punch to reach-into the steering head and to contact the bearing outer race. You use the punch side-to-side in those depressions to contact the back of the outer bearing until removal.

In the case of the VMax, the outer bearing is spec'ed with a bearing size where the outer, lower bearing shell has enough 'meat' to allow you to drive-out the outer shell, without that depression. Again tap the outer bearing shell180 degrees apart, and the shell will come-out. That's for the bottom.

The top is harder: no relief to allow the outer bearing shell edge to be contacted and the tubing at the upper outer bearing shell does-not permit contact with the edge of the outer bearing shell.

There are several ways to do this. Probably the easiest one is to weld a couple thick beads 180 degrees apart on the bearing surface, and frequently the heat generated will cause the bearing shell to expand. You then use the weld beads as purchase-points to use your punch once-again. Do it while the weld beads are hot, and the shell should easily release.

The other method is to use some-sort of a rotary tool and a small abrasive disc to cut a slot into the cross-section (slot cut positioned vertically) until you can use a cold chisel to crack-apart the race, and then remove it. This is what you do on the triple tree outer bearing race in the lower bearing, next-to the bottom of the triple tree. There's no-need to press-out the steering stem tube and then remove the race in a press, but that's an option. Then you have to press the steering stem tube back-in.

That's it. You can visit your local bearing supply house, or buy the OEM replacements, or go with a kit from someone like All-Balls. I've used the All-Balls kits, and never had a problem. Of course, ensure that the roller bearings are well-greased with a proper grease.

If you have a 'notchy' feeling while going stop-to-stop with the steering head, you probably are the owner of a bike with mis-adjusted bearings, and/or 'brinelling' from too-many hard landings after many wheelies. This results in small depressions in the bearing races, causing the notches.

If you're planning on keeping the bike, you should consider grinding in the areas of the upper bearing's outer race, a couple of those reliefs/depressions to enable an easier time of removal, should you need to do it. 180 degrees apart, and don't take-out too-much. Use either an abrasive stone or a carbide cutter.

For driving in the outer bearing races, using the old bearing races is a time-honored way of doing it, or finding a socket and an extension which is nearly the dia. of the bearing shell, and using that. If you're a well-equipped fellow, then you may have a bearing driver set. They are available from a number of suppliers, here's one place I've bought many tools from, they are a good source.
https://www.pitposse.com/tools.html
https://www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-universal-steering-head-race-cup-installer.html
Unfortunately, some of these items are sold-out, contact them to see when they expect to be offering them in-stock.

 

[Patineto]

Remove the outer races.

Gracias

The bike was a semi dragster so i imagine all the landing grom the whellies demorme everything

Here come my campagnolo headset press to the rescue


Sourse...??

OEM or something Better

 

[Fire-medic]

Here come my campagnolo headset press to the rescue

Yes, the park tools model is similar, and I'm sure it's cheaper.


https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/bearing-cup-press-hhp-2?category=Headset
I suppose a piece of all-thread and a few correct fender washers, and maybe some large sockets could improvise

 

[Patineto]

Yes, the park tools model is similar, and I'm sure it's cheaper.

View attachment 92682
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/bearing-cup-press-hhp-2?category=Headset
I suppose a piece of all-thread and a few correct fender washers, and maybe some large sockets could improvise

Campy = Bicyclegeek bling...

But yes with talent a sharp stone and a round stone will get the job done too

 

[Radioguylogs]

I suppose a piece of all-thread and a few correct fender washers, and maybe some large sockets could improvise

BTDT and it works OK:

 

[Patineto]

BTDT and it works OK:

View attachment 92693

Actually most cities-towns have a bike library with a headset press

 

[gentsvmax]

View attachment 92677on this one i was going up hill, the shick bottom up and launch up and forward and golem did a back flip and land like this..

Ps: never ever ride alone in the Dirt, you just never know, i have lost a few dear friends because playing the Macho Man BS

Man o man! Right click, Google search, find image source, BAM! shows you been riding all over the world!

 

[Tom Determan]

Remove the outer races.

I've posted about doing this and many other people too. Yamaha did not make the outer bearing removal as-easy as it could be. The problem lies primarily in the removal of the lower outer race.

Thoughtful manufacturers grind a small depression at the shoulder where the outer bearing sits in the steering head, either top or bottom. They do two, 180 degrees-apart. This permits a long punch to reach-into the steering head and to contact the bearing outer race. You use the punch side-to-side in those depressions to contact the back of the outer bearing until removal.

In the case of the VMax, the outer bearing is spec'ed with a bearing size where the outer, lower bearing shell has enough 'meat' to allow you to drive-out the outer shell, without that depression. Again tap the outer bearing shell180 degrees apart, and the shell will come-out. That's for the bottom.

The top is harder: no relief to allow the outer bearing shell edge to be contacted and the tubing at the upper outer bearing shell does-not permit contact with the edge of the outer bearing shell.

There are several ways to do this. Probably the easiest one is to weld a couple thick beads 180 degrees apart on the bearing surface, and frequently the heat generated will cause the bearing shell to expand. You then use the weld beads as purchase-points to use your punch once-again. Do it while the weld beads are hot, and the shell should easily release.

The other method is to use some-sort of a rotary tool and a small abrasive disc to cut a slot into the cross-section (slot cut positioned vertically) until you can use a cold chisel to crack-apart the race, and then remove it. This is what you do on the triple tree outer bearing race in the lower bearing, next-to the bottom of the triple tree. There's no-need to press-out the steering stem tube and then remove the race in a press, but that's an option. Then you have to press the steering stem tube back-in.

That's it. You can visit your local bearing supply house, or buy the OEM replacements, or go with a kit from someone like All-Balls. I've used the All-Balls kits, and never had a problem. Of course, ensure that the roller bearings are well-greased with a proper grease.

If you have a 'notchy' feeling while going stop-to-stop with the steering head, you probably are the owner of a bike with mis-adjusted bearings, and/or 'brinelling' from too-many hard landings after many wheelies. This results in small depressions in the bearing races, causing the notches.

If you're planning on keeping the bike, you should consider grinding in the areas of the upper bearing's outer race, a couple of those reliefs/depressions to enable an easier time of removal, should you need to do it. 180 degrees apart, and don't take-out too-much. Use either an abrasive stone or a carbide cutter.

For driving in the outer bearing races, using the old bearing races is a time-honored way of doing it, or finding a socket and an extension which is nearly the dia. of the bearing shell, and using that. If you're a well-equipped fellow, then you may have a bearing driver set. They are available from a number of suppliers, here's one place I've bought many tools from, they are a good source.
https://www.pitposse.com/tools.html
https://www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-universal-steering-head-race-cup-installer.html
Unfortunately, some of these items are sold-out, contact them to see when they expect to be offering them in-stock.

I'm not familiar with the race removal on a V max but a well known trick in a truck or trailer shop is if you have a welding machine nearby (MIG is best), lay some wet towels all around to catch the splatter and run a small bead about 1/3 of the circumference right on the race in a couple of places. When it's cool you can lift it out.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yep, I made reference to the weld bead method, but your caution about the laying of wet towels to protect adjacent surfaces is a point well-taken. I would probably remove the faux gas tank cover if I was doing anything on the master cyl's. I also have some shielding blankets from Oatey for doing any hot-work involving a torch or a MIG. They're inexpensive, and you can use some carpenter's large spring clamps to secure them where they're needed.

 

[Tom Determan]

Sorry, I didn't even bother to read your entire post - I was in a rush to head out to -5F to get the machinery running. My experience is the same method as your's but when cool, the race usually contracts enough to lift it right out. If not add some weld.

 

[Patineto]

Man o man! Right click, Google search, find image source, BAM! shows you been riding all over the world!

Teah but in little by little style, at one time i had a bed and a bike in every country on the planet earth..

But never had the founds to go riding for 2, 3 years

 

[Patineto]

Sorry, I didn't even bother to read your entire post - I was in a rush to head out to -5F to get the machinery running. My experience is the same method as your's but when cool, the race usually contracts enough to lift it right out. If not add some weld.

The favorite oh my master machinish is a electric one pot stove, i take bearing out of old motocross cases on a dayly basic and the little hot plate never fails

 

[Tom Determan]

The favorite oh my master machinish is a electric one pot stove, i take bearing out of old motocross cases on a dayly basic and the little hot plate never fails

That works well but it's kinda hard to do on a steering head. Plus, both materials are steel so the race will grow at a similar rate to the frame.

 

[Patineto]

That works well but it's kinda hard to do on a steering head. Plus, both materials are steel so the race will grow at a similar rate to the frame.

100% on Spot

But is always the fred flinston way

 

[Patineto]

My vmax is a 89vand for sure needs new headstock bearings

But the prices are all over and none if them are OEM

Where do you guys shop...??

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nk...313&_odkw=vmax+stem+steering+bearings&_sop=15