Pending Magnacharger install - tips?

[vmaxyk]

I just picked up a substantially complete Magnacharger kit and am in the process of gathering other odd bits and ends. Sean M. has graciously provided some input but I do have some other questions for those that have had a kit installed. . My preference is to start with low boost and basically stock timing and compression before looking to delve deeper into the engine. It came with a lower 25 tooth crank pulley and upper 20 so I’m guessing the slight overdrive puts it about 9-10psi? Can anyone confirm this? I’m looking to a start with 5-6psi so was wondering, if this is the case, if any one has a source for a 20 tooth crank pulley?

Also, does anyone happen to know the specs used on the Holley 4160 / 390? I understand it’s not the ultimate carb but I’m going to rebuild it including manifold / boost referencing the power valve but could use a starting point to tune. I do have an Innovate wide band kit once I have the basics locked in. It would be helpful to at least know the vacuum at idle so I can narrow down the correct power valve.

Although I haven’t checked for plate fitment, I’m thinking this system could really benefit from a water/ methanol injection set up. Has anyone done this?

Any other install tips ad tricks picked up along the way would also be appreciated.

Cheers, Terry

 

[one2dmax]

Pau Novak did a high boost with Methanol Injection on a 1517 big bore with big cams and a lot of head work. He was still unable to get over the 200 rwhp mark so keep that in mind when building your project.

 

[Paul Civitello]

Hi Terry I noticed your post and I wanted to save you a little bit of chasing your tail. That cast intake was made by Bill Bushling a good friend of mine going back to 1985. He was a dear friend of mine and I would never insult him or his work but the casting company that designed the intake you have has several design mistakes. The opening to mount your carburetor is too far ahead. It force feed the front two cylinders while starving the rear cylinders. No matter what carburetor you use it will not run right. The reason that was done was to keep the top pully directly above the crank pulley, but that was unnecessary. There is absolutely no negative affect of having the top pulley offset back. The belt just becomes a hair longer. Each port must accept the same amount of fuel and air. The bottom point of the casting also puddles with gas and when you take a turn it sloshes into one cylinder creating a rich condition momentarily. I added two pictures so anyone can see what I mean. I have several of these castings in the shop I wouldn't put one on a bike because I know it will never run properly. The intakes that I make for my blowers take all these factors into consideration and this is the reason my bikes get into the 8s. Not with stock internals that in itself is problematic but if you keep the boost pressure low you can do it and the engine will last for a while. For anyone out there I would like to tell you putting a supercharger on the bike is like opening a can of worms but once you use the correct parts and have everything properly adjusted it pulls like no other until it gets hot. Thats why I make a liquid cooled intake manifold, and the ultimate is my nitris cooled intake manifold. You have any questions or want advice I'm happy to talk with you. Give me a call at 203-574-7859

 

[vmaxyk]

Hi Terry I noticed your post and I wanted to save you a little bit of chasing your tail. That cast intake was made by Bill Bushling a good friend of mine going back to 1985. He was a dear friend of mine and I would never insult him or his work but the casting company that designed the intake you have has several design mistakes. The opening to mount your carburetor is too far ahead. It force feed the front two cylinders while starving the rear cylinders. No matter what carburetor you use it will not run right. The reason that was done was to keep the top pully directly above the crank pulley, but that was unnecessary. There is absolutely no negative affect of having the top pulley offset back. The belt just becomes a hair longer. Each port must accept the same amount of fuel and air. The bottom point of the casting also puddles with gas and when you take a turn it sloshes into one cylinder creating a rich condition momentarily. I added two pictures so anyone can see what I mean. I have several of these castings in the shop I wouldn't put one on a bike because I know it will never run properly. The intakes that I make for my blowers take all these factors into consideration and this is the reason my bikes get into the 8s. Not with stock internals that in itself is problematic but if you keep the boost pressure low you can do it and the engine will last for a while. For anyone out there I would like to tell you putting a supercharger on the bike is like opening a can of worms but once you use the correct parts and have everything properly adjusted it pulls like no other until it gets hot. Thats why I make a liquid cooled intake manifold, and the ultimate is my nitris cooled intake manifold. You have any questions or want advice I'm happy to talk with you. Give me a call at 203-574-7859

Thanks for the info Paul. Does sound like I am opening a can a of worms. So much for simply bolting on a low boost setup to start... I will give you a call in a few weeks after I've done some more assessing of what I have vs what I need.

 

[80R]

Thanks for the info Paul. Does sound like I am opening a can a of worms. So much for simply bolting on a low boost setup to start... I will give you a call in a few weeks after I've done some more assessing of what I have vs what I need.

I see it's some months later. Did you ever get anything figured out with this setup?
Wondering if you could simply center that blower pattern to a piece of thick aluminum plate and then open up the manifold and weld it in OR machine in some threads (or use thread inserts) and o-ring channels to seal between the plates. Basically make an adapter plate that centers the blower on the manifold.

 

[Paul Civitello]

I see it's some months later. Did you ever get anything figured out with this setup?
Wondering if you could simply center that blower pattern to a piece of thick aluminum plate and then open up the manifold and weld it in OR machine in some threads (or use thread inserts) and o-ring channels to seal between the plates. Basically make an adapter plate that centers the blower on the manifold.

That is possible to do what you said it would be a few days of work and you would have to weld the bolt holes on the short side perfect so that it doesn't create a vacuum leak. Then machine the top of the intake making the hole big enough that you could center the supercharger on there. The only thing I would figure out before you start is if you have the clearance between the snout of the super charger and the left side frame. Depending on the height of the plate you use you may run into a problem. You would have to make a new bracket to support the snout but that would be the easy part.

 

[vmaxyk]

That is possible to do what you said it would be a few days of work and you would have to weld the bolt holes on the short side perfect so that it doesn't create a vacuum leak. Then machine the top of the intake making the hole big enough that you could center the supercharger on there. The only thing I would figure out before you start is if you have the clearance between the snout of the super charger and the left side frame. Depending on the height of the plate you use you may run into a problem. You would have to make a new bracket to support the snout but that would be the easy part.

I was going to bench flow the set up to look at possible internal manifold diverter plates to even the distribution but was advised I would have a hard time replicating the real world dynamics. So I’ve installed bungs on each of the primaries and will be monitoring both afr and temp readings for each of the cylinders. Based on the readings I’ll see what I might be able to do.