pickup coil

[effingidiot]

Still no spark,just tested my pickup coil.The reading bounses arround,then settles down at 99.7 ohms.also tested my neutral switch,i don't get any reading in or out of gear but the light works.If i put the run switch to on,then turn the key on and off i do get a spark and a backfire.Any advice please.Thanks.

 

[sdt354]

Still no spark,just tested my pickup coil.The reading bounses arround,then settles down at 99.7 ohms.also tested my neutral switch,i don't get any reading in or out of gear but the light works.If i put the run switch to on,then turn the key on and off i do get a spark and a backfire.Any advice please.Thanks.

The neutral switch only effects the cranking circuit.I recall a mistake in the manual regarding which wires to Test on the pick ups. You might want to investigate that, and see if it pertains to late as well as early engines. There is a post or two on it. Maybe someone will chime in to verify. A running bike will do that backfire thing when turning the switch and key on & off.

 

[maleko89]

The manual says to use orange as common when testing early 1st gen p/u coils. Common should be black.


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[effingidiot]

The manual says to use orange as common when testing early 1st gen p/u coils. Common should be black.


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sorry i didn't say,it's a 94 only two wires.

 

[Fire-medic]

I believe that should be a good reading for the PU coil. 1985-'89 is the early ignition, multiple PU coils 1990+ is the late-model ignition.

It's been mentioned you can have an intermittent problem with the PU coil once it warms-up, it can go open-circuit (bad-not working) until it cools down, and establishes continuity again. I've had that problem w/my PU coil twice in 24 years. That requires a replacement PU coil to fix. Plenty of posts on the cheap aftermarket source for them. You used to have to adapt the aftermarket PU coil to your OEM bracket, after removing your bad PU coil from the bracket. Now, it's plug & play, but much more expensive, but still < 1/2 a stock replacement.

Using your kill switch to produce a going-through-a-tunnel backfire is a very hooligan thing to do!

sorry i didn't say,it's a 94 only two wires.

 

[[email protected]]

So, no spark?

Pick up seems to test OK, correct?

Have you tried to bypass the side stand switch?

Anyone nearby that can loan a known good CDI to try that pending no spark after the side stand bypass?

 

[effingidiot]

I believe that should be a good reading for the PU coil. 1985-'89 is the early ignition, multiple PU coils 1990+ is the late-model ignition.

It's been mentioned you can have an intermittent problem with the PU coil once it warms-up, it can go open-circuit (bad-not working) until it cools down, and establishes continuity again. I've had that problem w/my PU coil twice in 24 years. That requires a replacement PU coil to fix. Plenty of posts on the cheap aftermarket source for them. You used to have to adapt the aftermarket PU coil to your OEM bracket, after removing your bad PU coil from the bracket. Now, it's plug & play, but much more expensive, but still < 1/2 a stock replacement.

Using your kill switch to produce a going-through-a-tunnel backfire is a very hooligan thing to do!

I have never had it running,that's why i'm testing everything.The only time i get a spark,is when i put the run switch on and then turn the key on and off.It sparks when turning the key to the off possition.

 

[D-Max2012]

When I replaced my PU coil, it showed these symptoms.
It would start when cold.
As it started to warm up, the bike would start to hesitate.
As the bike got up to temp, it would sputter and die.
At this point, it would not restart until I let it cool down.

I used a spare spark plug to see if I was getting any spark..
NO PARK until the bike cooled down.
ALSO, once I did get a spark again, it was a weak one. Barely visible in the dark.
Once I changed out the PU unit, the spark was so strong that it could be seen in bright daylight.

If you're not seeing these symptoms, you may have some other issue.

 

[effingidiot]

So, no spark?

Pick up seems to test OK, correct?

Have you tried to bypass the side stand switch?

Anyone nearby that can loan a known good CDI to try that pending no spark after the side stand bypass?

wish i knew someone nearby with a vmax.
Batt good.cranking volts good.
Starter relay good.
Fuses good.
Side stand switch good.
Side stand relay good.
Diode block good.
Preasure sensor thingy good.
Clutch switch good.
Pick up coil 99.7 ohms.
Still got to check the power to the cdi
Handlebar switches all work fine.
Got a few more checks to do,like power to the cdi.What's bugging me,is the spark when i turn the key off.
I will get there in the end,i will never surrender.

 

[[email protected]]

Got a few more checks to do,like power to the cdi.What's bugging me,is the spark when i turn the key off.

Not sure I follow.
Where are you seeing spark when you turn the key off?

Is it possible the key switch itself it bad? In full on position it basically jumps all three wires together.

 

[maleko89]

Not sure I follow.
Where are you seeing spark when you turn the key off?

Is it possible the key switch itself it bad? In full on position it basically jumps all three wires together.

If the key switch is shorting out like that then cdi input voltage should be very low.


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[effingidiot]

Not sure I follow.
Where are you seeing spark when you turn the key off?

Is it possible the key switch itself it bad? In full on position it basically jumps all three wires together.

on a plug grounded to frame.ign key switch is good.