Pics of Hayabusa Calipers and late model rotors on a 85

[godsend1]

Thanks for the info on the bolts.

So for the lines you just ordered them for a Vmax in the 2 line option?

 

[RagingMain]

Thanks for the info on the bolts.

So for the lines you just ordered them for a Vmax in the 2 line option?

Yep

 

[godsend1]

Do you know where to find some of these bolts?

The bolt 10x1.25 mm, 15-20 mm long. You need a cap head screw/bolt because a regular hex head bolt head is too large and causes the bolt to bind up on the fork legs. Find it in chrome or stainless because hardened steel just rusts and looks like **** :bang head:

I have the FJR masters and the Busa calipers and it is freaking awesome. I just used the two line option when ordering and ran a separate line to each caliper.

 

[KJShover]

Any decent hardware or fastener store should have them. If you can't find them give Denali Industrial a ring (907) 452-4524.

I get 90% of my bolts from them and the rest from sentry hardware.

 

[godsend1]

Thanks for the #. I was just at Lowes looking for a metric bolt to remove my fork caps and I don't recall seeing any SS in metric.

 

[fastbird]

Also try ACE hardware and Menards.

 

[Redbone]

You might try Fastenal, many locations in Georgia.
Or McMaster-Carr (6100 Fulton Industrial Blvd. SW Atlanta, GA 30336-2853 + other locations nationwiide) Ph. # (562) 463-4277.
which seems to have everything! I just spent half a hour there looking at just cap head screws, now I just have to match up what Redbone needs to finish up the conversion over to all SS.

 

[godsend1]

I have started fitting this mod up and am having a problem with the rotors rubbing on the calipers . It's not much , enough so you can hear it when turning the tire, it seems to be from the outside of the rotor on the inside of the caliper . Has anybody else run into this issue?

 

[one2dmax]

the castings and rotors both have variances so you can use a file and take the little amount off that is touching (should be down deep into the caliper).

Sean

 

[godsend1]

the castings and rotors both have variances so you can use a file and take the little amount off that is touching (should be down deep into the caliper).

Sean

Ya, that's where I found it. Been filing and bluing.

 

[one2dmax]

It should file fairly easily. Use some candle wax on your file to help keep it from gumming up the teeth.

Sean

 

[godsend1]

Though I had it, took it for a ride today and have a decent rr,rr, I'm sure it;s the rotor caliper as it stays when I apply the brakes.

Sean, how much material is available on the calipers before I need to worry about compromising the caliper?

 

[one2dmax]

You can take off quite a bit with the way they are bolted in place and the way the halves are bolted together. Did you make sure the rotor is true. You may even be able to take the high spot off the rotor. Meaning if the noise is not 100% rub then it's got a bit of egg shape to it (normal). Make sure to look inside and see if it's rubbing on the sides and not the top. That does happen occasionally too and you would washer the caliper or bracket as needed.

Sean

 

[maleko89]

+1 to shimming caliper. I needed shims for right side adapter. Otherwise, could barely turn front wheel.

 

[godsend1]

+1 to shimming caliper. I needed shims for right side adapter. Otherwise, could barely turn front wheel.

Doh, ya it is rubbing inside to, I'll take a closer look and shim accordingly.

 

[one2dmax]

Sorry man, I'm used to aircraft tolerances so these tolerance stack up issues can be a real pain. One of these days i'll get off my butt and include some washers with the adapters.

Sean

 

[godsend1]

No worries Sean, I'm used to submarine tolerances, sometimes I forget the simple things when looking for a solution.

 

[godsend1]

Well, it wasn't an alignment issue. It's still rotor od interference, the frustrating part is there is enough slop in the adapter plate holes to allow either no interference on one extreme to significant interference on the other extreme. I have removed an awful lot of material from the caliper. :bang head:

I will probably look at getting the rotor od turned down by .050-.0100.

The rotors are true, as I get no pulsing when applying brakes at any speed. This one definately is egg shaped. I haven't put a dial indicator on it, can't seem to find mine.

Should I try swapping adapters, and rotors before I get the problem rotor turned?

 

[one2dmax]

Not sure what to have you try but you might even be able to swap them to fix it. It may even be able to loosen all the bolts and shift the rotors to the max extreme of the slack in the bolt holes.

Sean

 

[godsend1]

I have an angle grinder and I know how to use it.

I'm gonna find the high spot on the rotor and knock it down a bit. I guess I should have thought of grinding it sooner.

Forgot to add, the way the rotors mount to the rim there is no wiggle room. There's a lip on the rim that the rotor fits over.

If I can't get no satisfaction with some grinding I will try swapping the pieces around.