21Turner
Active Member
Hello,
I was wondering about what I could expect to pay to have my carbs cleaned and synced?
I was wondering about what I could expect to pay to have my carbs cleaned and synced?
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vmaxcruzer
Well-Known Member
From a local stealer? A lot!
Better off doing it yourself, you'd learn what each part does so you can tune it after you reinstall.
Sync is easy and shouldnt be much, maybe 1/4 of an hours wage.
Lots of info with pics in here on how to take them apart. Several people on here that enjoy tearing into them that will help you through as well.
Better off doing it yourself, you'd learn what each part does so you can tune it after you reinstall.
Sync is easy and shouldnt be much, maybe 1/4 of an hours wage.
Lots of info with pics in here on how to take them apart. Several people on here that enjoy tearing into them that will help you through as well.
acammer
Well-Known Member
+1. $20 to build your own carb sync tool, and $10 for a can of seafoam spray, and an hour or two of your time. Research the peashooter and shotgun carb cleaning methods on here. Start with the peashooter and a carb sync, and if you've still got some issues, you can go a little deeper with the shotgun. Many have even reported that just by adding a third of a can of the seafoam fuel additive to a full take of gas that they have had great results with clearing up some of the low speed carb circuit issues that tend to develop with these ethanol enriched fuels.
I built the tool pictured below and did my carb sync last week - piece of cake. A few weeks prior I did the peashooter, another piece of cake. My max is running great now, holding a smooth steady idle, and responding top notch.
The tool is 3/8" hose on the board, all linked with a pair of tee connectors - they are all 4' lengths. I then bought a quartet of universal "stepped" connectors from Advance Auto Parts, and added the 5' sections of 3/16" tubing that connects directly to the vacuum ports on each intake runner. The "stepped" connectors doubled as an excellent restrictor for keeping the fulid from moving too quickly.
When I first started my fully warmed up max connected to the sync tool, I was drawing so much vacuum on 1 cylinder in particular that it was raising the fluid in that tube to the point where it was going to suck it out. So, once I identified which cylinder was pulling too hard, I cut the motor before any fluid was pulled out, and backed that carb down a hair. Then I restarted the engine to check again. Better, but still threatening to pull the fluid out of the tool, so I had to cut the motor a second time and back that carb off further still. Third time, it was still high, but sufficiently adjusted to stay on the tool. From their I followed the standard sync procedure.
+1 Look for NaughtyG's 6 part carb rebuild series and print them out.....everything you need to know is right there.
Go to your local A/P and get a gallon of GUNK carb cleaner with metal basket, about $45 +/-.
Tear 'em down one at a time, figure out what you need....Morley can fix you up with the parts you need. Usually it's just o-rings & gaskets.
When you're done, you have the knowledge & carb cleaner and saved a bunch of $'s!
The sync is easy, I'd rec. getting a carb tune and doing it yourself....lots of info on the forum, just run a search. Carbtune runs about $120 which is probly about what the stealer will charge....by the time he gets done his 'test drive'....cause they always want to drive a v max!
Go to your local A/P and get a gallon of GUNK carb cleaner with metal basket, about $45 +/-.
Tear 'em down one at a time, figure out what you need....Morley can fix you up with the parts you need. Usually it's just o-rings & gaskets.
When you're done, you have the knowledge & carb cleaner and saved a bunch of $'s!
The sync is easy, I'd rec. getting a carb tune and doing it yourself....lots of info on the forum, just run a search. Carbtune runs about $120 which is probly about what the stealer will charge....by the time he gets done his 'test drive'....cause they always want to drive a v max!
alorio1
Well-Known Member
I have seen prices posted by other members on here that ranged from $250-$700. With 700 being for a total rebuild, but then their warranty is only good as the work they do. If you are wrench savvy you can take the advice the other members have given already and do it yourself. We have Morley's Muscle (one of the vendors on this site) which does excellent work and can supply you with all parts needed for a complete carb rebuild, or just send your carbs to him. Then there are some members on here that do it on the side when they have time. If you plan on owning a Vmax for a while it would be best to invest, or build your carb syncing tool, because the Vmax sync seems to get out of whack from time to time and its no biggie to synch your carbs. I have a Carbtune 11 I have used for years which come in handy when my Vmax seems to be out of sync. If you decide to do it yourself there are people on here that know the answerer to what ever your question may be and are willing to help, always. I would start out with the lesser of evasive carb problem technique's before a tear down. Most of the time your problem will be a dirty fuel circuit and be cleaned without removing carbs from engine, shotgun method, peashooter method, all of these are simple with a high success rate for Vmax carb problems. Do a search, and read up on threads in the "carb tunning section of the forum".
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alorio1
Well-Known Member
Here is a link to one method of carb cleaning a lot of members use...........
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
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ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
if you're gonna send your carbs out for a cleaning, talk to RagingMan. I think he is still doing a service ultrasonically to raise donations for a charity. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10537
i cleaned out the carbs myself, and i can attest that "if i can do it, so can you". read all the stickys in the carb/tune section of the forum. everything you need to know is there--from how to pop them off, to how to disassemble/reassemble, how to measure your float level, and how to synch afterwards. if they're still there, watch out for them stupid phillips screws. i replaced them with some hex heads from the local hardware store. others have replaced them with allen heads. i recommend adding these to your parts lists along with the carb cleaner--reason being, the replacement screws will make the next job a hell of a lot more easier because if the stock ones were like mine, after years of heat and road, those effers would not come out without an Easy-Out. You might have to invest in a set as well. Talk to CaptainKyle. He helped me out with all my parts needs. Good luck. It really is easy. take pics along the way. like dannymax said, be meticulous with the first one--laying out the parts in an organized manner. after the second one, you'll wonder how the hell the stealership can get away with the daylight robbery.
i cleaned out the carbs myself, and i can attest that "if i can do it, so can you". read all the stickys in the carb/tune section of the forum. everything you need to know is there--from how to pop them off, to how to disassemble/reassemble, how to measure your float level, and how to synch afterwards. if they're still there, watch out for them stupid phillips screws. i replaced them with some hex heads from the local hardware store. others have replaced them with allen heads. i recommend adding these to your parts lists along with the carb cleaner--reason being, the replacement screws will make the next job a hell of a lot more easier because if the stock ones were like mine, after years of heat and road, those effers would not come out without an Easy-Out. You might have to invest in a set as well. Talk to CaptainKyle. He helped me out with all my parts needs. Good luck. It really is easy. take pics along the way. like dannymax said, be meticulous with the first one--laying out the parts in an organized manner. after the second one, you'll wonder how the hell the stealership can get away with the daylight robbery.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
Like gamorg02 said there are members on here that do a good job cleaning carbs, one member even bought a heated Ultrasonic cleaner to clean them with, but I don't remember who it was.
yukonerdave
Well-Known Member
RagingMain did mine (fantastic job) for a donation to a charity he is involved with. Might try getting ahold of him
Redbone
Well-Known Member
It was Captain Kyle, Sean Morley (One2dmax) also has one and Fargo (Ragingmain) has use of one as well. There may be others as well.
21Turner
Active Member
Thanks for all the great advice, I will take the leap and tackle it myself. Thanks for the links too.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the stickies in the carb forum are really about as good as it gets when it comes to a "hold your hand" tutorial.
But I'd give the seafoam a try. Some members have reported good things about the new "Start your engines" additive also for super carb cleaning power.
Otherwise, give the shotgun/peashooter techniques a try. You can do both in like an hour. "Deep Creep" can be found at most auto stores, it's just seafoam in a spray can. Good for carb cleaning.
Still no good, then you don't have many options other than to pull the carb rack and tear them down.
But I'd give the seafoam a try. Some members have reported good things about the new "Start your engines" additive also for super carb cleaning power.
Otherwise, give the shotgun/peashooter techniques a try. You can do both in like an hour. "Deep Creep" can be found at most auto stores, it's just seafoam in a spray can. Good for carb cleaning.
Still no good, then you don't have many options other than to pull the carb rack and tear them down.
gennro
Well-Known Member
When doing carbs remember CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!!!!!!! Also polish your slides and check for pin holes in the diaphragms. Take pictures of the disassembly a long the way specially of one carb so if it takes you few weeks you can look back at the pictures for re-assembly.
