Promptly After Disengaging Clutch the bike dies

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Gotta say, A113ycat's suggestion sounds like the most likely so far. If I was you I would just go ahead and open up the clutch to check out what's going on - ask Sean Morley for advice as he knows all this stuff inside out. I wouldn't know where to start having never done a clutch myself, my the service manual should give you all the pointers you need to service it and find out if anything's out of spec.
Then once you found your problem, ask Sean for any part you may need to replace, you'll get an honest price and the best service.
 
Thanks Alley. I actually have that manual on PDF and a printed copy too.
I wasn't sure if it was like adjusting valves where no parts would be needed or if it would require me to buy some parts or not.

I will take a close look at the manual. Is there any way to tell if that was the culprit before buying the parts and doing all the work?

According to the manual in the routine service section, the clutch should be inspected and repacked at certain times at mileage intervals. I would suggest to just do it and call it being a good buddy to your bike. If the bike has an unknown history or if it was ridden hard put away wet by any previous owners the clutch set will need attention anyway and your bike will appreciate it. The springs and clutch set are relatively inexpensive and there are bonuses to having it done. Even if you don't replace the plates doing the springs will make a world of difference.

+1 on getting with Sean or Kyle or any of the other Max mechanics :worthy::worthy:
 
I just wrote a long explanation, but the page "hiccupped," & I lost it.:bang head:

Not gonna rewrite, but sounds like a fuel delivery problem or an ignition box problem. I never had a clutch cause an engine to die repeatedly from slipping when engaged if the friction discs were worn or the springs were bad (VNax is a diaphragm spring of course).

Check fuel output: volume divided by time, check the manual for the #'s.
 
Actaully, it's not a bad idea to check the slides. If they are broken or torn or not seated correctly they won't pull out of the emulsion tubes and give you the fuel needed to move.

Sean
 
I know the diaphragms are not torn and I am sure they were seated properly but I will take the airbox off to double check to see if they are moving. I will also check the sync of the carbs. If none of those were it, then I will post a video of how it is running on center stand and also if I can get my neighbor to record how it dies when my f@t@ss is trying to take off on it.
Gotta go but I will check on those once I am back from the shelter.
Thanks guys.
 
OK, I took the airbox out to see if the diaphragms were moving, they were but more like vibrating and only up to about 3000 RPM give and take couple hundred, then it reaches a plateau and even chokes a bit which at that point I could hear the loud suction. So, yes, even though the diaphragms were not torn and were seated properly, there was a leak in the vacuum. The material felt much stiffer than before and that also made it a pain in the rear during assembly.
I am guessing since the lack of vacuum is very likely to culprit, replacing the diaphragms is the logical step. The rubber-like material actually came off the slider piece when I was checking it. I will have to take the slider end apart and see if I can re-seat the diaphragms unless you guys think it would be better to buy the new ones on eBay and replace them?
Also, does anyone have the link to that fella who was just selling the diaphragms?

Hopefully that was "The" cause but I will worry about it when I get that far.

Thanks everyone for all your help.
 
Do bear in mind that the motor will not rev up with the airbox off - it is normal for it to choke as too much air is coming in. You should, however, be able to get just to the point where the slides start moving by revving up slowly.
 
I am a bit inpatient when it comes to buying things for repairs, etc. I couldn't wait for the auction to be over and he had not replied to my message about buying them off direct so I found another site and ordered them for $19.99 each plus $13.xx S&H, I think it is from Canada.
Here is the eBay link. I hope it is a good one, I was looking at the cutie.
:eusa_dance:

And this is the method I will probably end up using as mine seemed to be fairly well glued on there:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84DRVc9J5GQ

Do bear in mind that the motor will not rev up with the airbox off - it is normal for it to choke as too much air is coming in. You should, however, be able to get just to the point where the slides start moving by revving up slowly.
I see. Well, after checking the bike with the box off and even attempting to ride it without it. I did put the air box back on and even tightened it then tried riding and same thing. I must have been high when I thought it was revving high and mighty when in fact, it was only revving up to about 3500RPM max then suddenly coming to a sharp halt (due to too much suction leak in the diaphragms I am assuming) and also seemingly choking and losing power abruptly. At this point, I went ahead and ordered the diaphragms. I will replace them and see where I stand as clutch didn't seem to be the issue, at least right at the moment.

Thanks!
:worthy:
 
does your clutch lever feels strong ? if not you should take out the air from your system and add new dot 4 fluid. with engine off and in gear , if you press your clutch lever can you push and move your bike ?

I can't move my bike when in gear with the clutch pulled, just started this, this morning. The bike starts fine but when I put it in gear it dies. It has break fluid in the clutch master cylinder. I ran it low about a month ago and it did the same thing as now. I then filed it up and it worked fine until today.
 
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