Quest for better handling suggestions.

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Kratos

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What I have done so far;

17" wheels front and rear.
120/60-17 Pilot Road 2 - front
180/55-17 Pilot Road 2 - rear
Progressive springs up front with Ricor Intiminators.
Tightened steering head nut.

OK, now the speed wobble is gone, but still have a wobble at speed when I hit a bump/dip in the road or transitioning through turns. Since the 17" wheel with the 120/60-17 tire already drops the front end 1.375", I wasn't sure if I should drop it any more.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

1- Can/should I drop the front any more?
2 - What would be the next mod that would give me the best results? (solid motor mounts, frame braces, etc....)
3 - Rear shocks - I plan on going with the stock length Progressive 440's when I can afford them.
 
Steering dumper maybe an good idea.

Soild mounts are IMO must to do.

1- Yes but that maybe not good idea becouse graund clearance.
2- Steering damper and soild mounts. After soild mounts you no longer need frame barces, IMO.
3- That maybe a good ide wuth 17" rear wheel. Cosmetic tough.

But the best from the best what you can do is, to install inverted fork with radial brakes :D
 
frame braces and damper about the same price. not sure which is more helpful but both help!
 
The attached link is a good article to help understand why the mighty vmax is prone to wobbles and weaves. The best way to fix these problems is to first understand the basic weaknesses of the chassis and the forces working against it. Your definitely on the right track with the mods that you have already done, but I think we must remember that these problems can always come back due to wear and tear on the individual components.

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/... of chassis inadequacies - Weaves and wobbles

I would say that the next mod would be solid motor mounts and check the swingarm bearings condition and torque spec.

Mike
 
Thanks for the suggestions :punk:, I have solid motor mounts on the way. I had checked the swingarm bolt torque not too long ago and it appeared to be OK. Is there any certain brand of steering damper that vmaxers have used and had good luck with? I don't want to lose any more ground clearance, but should the front and/or rear be lowered any more? I'm not as concerned with the looks as I am with the functionality/performance of the bike. I'm used to sport bikes, and I know the Vmax is far from a sport bike, but I would like to get it as close as I can to the handling characteristics that I am used to.
 
I think you have other issues. Don't stick a band-aid on it until you have the bleeding stopped.

My '06 has NO issues. Once I did the furber fix I was good to go. With radials it just made a world of difference.

I'd recheck your nut and make sure it's still where it needs to be by doing the bounce test.

Chris
 
I think you have other issues. Don't stick a band-aid on it until you have the bleeding stopped.

My '06 has NO issues. Once I did the furber fix I was good to go. With radials it just made a world of difference.

I'd recheck your nut and make sure it's still where it needs to be by doing the bounce test.

Chris

Thanks, I'll recheck the steering head tightness with the bounce test. I checked it when I still had the stock front wheel, but have not checked it again since I have installed the 17" wheel.
 
I don't have wobble issues anymore. I have WEAVE issues. The weave bugs the shit outta me. I notice it mostly in sweepers. The bike wiggles like a happy little puppy. Throw some wind in there and its like you're riding a flag thru the turns. The faster I go, the scarier it gets. I'm not even scraping pegs so its not like I'm riding it crazy. I notice that if I chop the throttle to slow down before a turn it creates some bad harmonics. Not a good thing to do before coming into a turn. At least on my bike:confused2: I have an 06 with 5,500 miles. I can't see there being very much wear on anything. I've adjusted the head bearings long ago with Sean's method and that cured my decel wobble. Swingarm bearings seem fine. No side to side play at all. I was going to check them with the tq wrench but they felt fine as I checked it out when replacing the shocks.

I put on some 12.5" 440's and dropped the front 1" in the trees and it still does this. Maybe even worse?? Hard to say. I'm wondering if solid mounts would do the trick. I HATE going 70 + thru a nice turn and the bike just starts going side to side worse and worse till I have to slow down. This is about the only thing I can complain about on my Vmax.
 
I don't have wobble issues anymore. I have WEAVE issues. The weave bugs the shit outta me. I notice it mostly in sweepers. The bike wiggles like a happy little puppy. Throw some wind in there and its like you're riding a flag thru the turns. The faster I go, the scarier it gets. I'm not even scraping pegs so its not like I'm riding it crazy. I notice that if I chop the throttle to slow down before a turn it creates some bad harmonics. Not a good thing to do before coming into a turn. At least on my bike:confused2: I have an 06 with 5,500 miles. I can't see there being very much wear on anything. I've adjusted the head bearings long ago with Sean's method and that cured my decel wobble. Swingarm bearings seem fine. No side to side play at all. I was going to check them with the tq wrench but they felt fine as I checked it out when replacing the shocks.

I put on some 12.5" 440's and dropped the front 1" in the trees and it still does this. Maybe even worse?? Hard to say. I'm wondering if solid mounts would do the trick. I HATE going 70 + thru a nice turn and the bike just starts going side to side worse and worse till I have to slow down. This is about the only thing I can complain about on my Vmax.

Mike, how are your tires for wear and pressure?
 
I have frame braces as well and IMO the difference was unbelievable. I think that is one thing people need to look at.

Radials help a lot too.

Chris
 
I know the static setting would be different to account for the rider's weight, but is there a "magic" number as far as the front being a certain amount lower than the rear to get the best possible handling characteristics on the vmax?
 
I don't think that's 100% true. I know a lot of people have put both on. I for one didn't want the vibes associated with the solid mounts.

Chris
 
I don't think that's 100% true. I know a lot of people have put both on. I for one didn't want the vibes associated with the solid mounts.

Chris

Thats was told by my experiences.
I felt no diffrence after instaling frame braces with already instaled solid mounts.
Thats why i've sold those braces.

Now with only: fubber fix, radials and soild mounts i cant complain and do not plan to do anything more with the frame.

Only USD's are on the way.

You right, they propably do something but it is worth to spent some bucks
for the mod that propably cant be felt?

Soild runs more more cheaper and for 90% peoples this is enough.


As for the vibs...i cant tell thats annoying me.
 
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IMO it's hard to beat solid mounts. It effectively makes the motor a stressed member with the frame which engineering wise is vastly different to whats happening with the sponge pudding stock mounts.
I wouldn't consider braces after fitting the solid mounts.
I feel some vibration with it but it just adds to the character of owning a muscle bike.:punk:
 
now I really can't wait to fit mine.. That's also my only real complaint about Max - the high speed turns weave. If the solid mounts work that good I'm gonna be a happy camper, even if I need to get a barsnake!
 
Mike, how are your tires for wear and pressure?


Tires are shinko tourmaster front and rear, 120 and 170 respectively. Both have about 1500 miles on them. The front looks good and the pressure is 32-34psi. Rear is getting worn and square but still OK for some miles. I keep it around 36-38psi.

Has anyone got a recent price on solid mounts from Gary @ Mondak? I'm not worried about the vibes. I'm thinking my wife will enjoy them : )
 
Dont forget to do furber fix. Solids will not work without this.

Are you serious? I still think the Furbur Fix is nothing more than a band-aid for deteriorating steering bearings.

After I renewed my bearings, I took the Furbur washer out and went back to the rubber washer between the two castle nuts - no problems. :confused2:
 
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