dannymax gave you a good set-up, I'd expect nothing less.
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- Thread starter 1SK14R
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No, the Valves dont need to be adjusted until like 26K.Did mine awhile ago . They weren’t out to bad , But did need readjusting.
Test ran , Way Better, but from low rpm acceleration to around 4 or 4500 Sputtering and around 5or 6 above pulls like a train .
Wasn’t expecting that ,and that was without VBoost .
Have a switch that I control it with .
Been Aloooong time 35 years I drove a Vmax
Had a relaxed grip and when it started ripping in upper rpms “ POWER SMILE “ and startled me , almost lost my grip .
And it did pop a few times and I didn’t notice it after that .
But you can Sure hear the Valves .
Beginning to wonder if Valve Adjustment is in Need .
100% Correct . 100% Satisfied. We are in Contact and is helping with advice to . And has also suggested to back out A/F screw 1/4 of a turn and see what happens.
His Exhaust System Flows way better than mine .
I have Stock Exhaust with Black Widow Slip -Ons
I’m very close to getting it dialed in . Thank You Guys for your Help .
It was a Grin from Ear to Ear when the Vmax kicked in on the upper RPM’s this morning . Something it would not do before the Sync .
Thanks Again
Now with much respect to said shop for all their accumulated brand experience, there just isn't much if any transference of knowledge gained from wrenching on inline 4s, Beemer's or Harley's that is relevant or applicable to the mechanical theory and characteristics of the Yamaha Vmax 1200. Start them off with a little job like a coolant flush. Meanwhile get yourself a good Factory Service Manual, learn how to navigate this site and you'll check this shop off your list.I don’t know if you know all the hype about “ GixxerBrah” buts that’s how I found out about them .
They work on ANY bikes , Dyno Tune , Service .
They have some BMW1000rr, R1, Busa’s, And 14r’s , Saw some Harley’s . Independent. Not a Dealership.
I’ve done everything that I can think of except Pulse Coil where the Stator is .
I do need to put the correct battery in there . I’ve got the Zx14r battery in there which is a 14
Max calls for a 16
Let me see ,
New Gas Tank “Used-EBAY”
New Fuel Filter
New Sparkplugs
Replaced Rear Coils-Wires-Caps
Replaced Front Wires-Caps
Ohms in Speck
Full Rebuild on Carbs. Thanks Dan !
Air Filter Like New
Fresh Oil - Filter
But as mentioned- she pulled HARD on the upper Rpm’s
I feel like I’m missing something small
Because it runs way better than before after Sync .
Just that lower rpm Sputter
I keep aiming towards the Valves
putin
Well-Known Member
Did you try this a/f screw?
Yes , I do plan on getting a Service Manual this week. But for now , Using Download from FireMedic “
”And a Big Thanks to EVERYONE for helping me with Advice and Knowledge.
Very close to Dialing it in .
Yes
Have been suggested I go all the way back in and come back out I believe 3 1/2 turns on front and 4 on rear
Or it might be 3 on front and 3 1/2 rear and then test drive it again .
Let me correct myselfYes , I do plan on getting a Service Manual this week. But for now , Using Download from FireMedic “
And a Big Thanks to EVERYONE for helping me with Advice and Knowledge.
Very close to Dialing it in .
Yes
Have been suggested I go all the way back in and come back out I believe 3 1/2 turns on front and 4 on rear
Or it might be 3 on front and 3 1/2 rear and then test drive it again .
They are set a 3 1/2 out
To leave the fronts at 3 1/2 and go 4 on rear
If doesn’t change anything
Go 4 on the front
And 4 1/2 rear
putin
Well-Known Member
So, did you fix everything?
No change. There have been suggestions it might be electrical .
Resynced, Adjusted A/F
On acceleration, stumbling
Above 5000 WOT - pulls Hard and Smooth
At cruising 55-65 - will pop out right exhaust a few times - and can feel dropping cylinders on /off
Replaced Coils,wires,caps in rear
Replaced wires,caps in front
3.6 ohms at coils or 36
13,000 at wires
New plugs 32 gap
Only thing not changed is Pulse Coil and CDI
Have been suggested to dielectric all connections and then see what happens
Resynced, Adjusted A/F
On acceleration, stumbling
Above 5000 WOT - pulls Hard and Smooth
At cruising 55-65 - will pop out right exhaust a few times - and can feel dropping cylinders on /off
Replaced Coils,wires,caps in rear
Replaced wires,caps in front
3.6 ohms at coils or 36
13,000 at wires
New plugs 32 gap
Only thing not changed is Pulse Coil and CDI
Have been suggested to dielectric all connections and then see what happens
Well, you could try Sean Morley's Traveling Box of Electrical Parts. You replace one at a time of the electrical components until you have found your solution, and you pay for that one piece and send the Traveling Box to the next customer on the list.
The 'pulse coil' I assume you're referring to the pick-up coil down by the stator/rotor? That usually either totally-fails, or it fails once it's warm, then the bike dies. It won't re-start until the engine cools-down, and then it starts. When the pick-up coil is 'open,' not capable of sending a signal to the ignition box, the engine will crank OK but will not start. Let it cool, and it will start, and then cut-out again once the engine is hot.
I've had a pick-up coil fail twice in >30 years of VMax ownership. The ones for the 1985-89 bikes require two pick-up coils on the wiring, that's how they come, two together. Those are hard to come-by. They aren't available from Yamaha anymore. You can switch a '85-'89 wiring harness/ignition system to a 1990-newer system, but it's expensive. Rotor, pick-up coil, stator too, I believe, TCI ignition box, and wire harness, someone else may chip-in and correct me or add something else.
The 'pulse coil' I assume you're referring to the pick-up coil down by the stator/rotor? That usually either totally-fails, or it fails once it's warm, then the bike dies. It won't re-start until the engine cools-down, and then it starts. When the pick-up coil is 'open,' not capable of sending a signal to the ignition box, the engine will crank OK but will not start. Let it cool, and it will start, and then cut-out again once the engine is hot.
I've had a pick-up coil fail twice in >30 years of VMax ownership. The ones for the 1985-89 bikes require two pick-up coils on the wiring, that's how they come, two together. Those are hard to come-by. They aren't available from Yamaha anymore. You can switch a '85-'89 wiring harness/ignition system to a 1990-newer system, but it's expensive. Rotor, pick-up coil, stator too, I believe, TCI ignition box, and wire harness, someone else may chip-in and correct me or add something else.
What would you say on the CDI Box ?
Because I understand the Pulse Coil now .
It’s runs , drives , . When test drive , go about 2 or 3 miles both ways . Has old back tire , replacing soon but limited on how far I drive at the moment. That’s why short distances.
So that would leave the CDI Box . My understanding, it has diodes inside . Possibly something going south in there .
And I meant pop out of left side on earlier thread
How does Sean’s Travel Pack work. Can you explain a little more .
DannyMax mentioned that to me .
Sean Morley....aka one2dmax, usually has a kit that he can send to people that will help diagnose their electrical issues.
I am going to do the dielectric grease first with all connections.
Firemedic explained the pulse pick-up coil on the Vmax
. Pulse Coil ruled out .
I’m leaning on the CDI Igniter Box .
All other Electrical has been Ohmed Out - In Spec “ Coils,Wires,Caps, New Plugs.
The one thing that doesn’t work is the Vboost Module under the Scoop .
Have a Reverse Polarity Switch to Control Vboost but haven’t used it yet .
Not until I figure out Low Rpm Stumbles and a few pops out left exhaust.
As mentioned above 5000 pulls hard WOT
Below stumbles
And at Cruise 55-65 can feel cylinders coming on/ off , on/Off .
And pops from left side exhaust a few times
Good Morning, Going through all Electric Connections ,
Dielectric Grease all .
Came across this ,
Shouldn’t it a plug in plug here ?
Left side where the Vmax Cover is .
And would you know off hand what it controls
Attachments
hello 1SK14R This is something I Did some time ago Thought the carbs were installed correctly and on closer inspection i saw that they were not fully seated into the rubber connecters. It takes a lot of effort to push them in fully. Also it is good to use modest amount of an appropriate lube to ease installation I hope that helps. Used machines are a challenge.
1Sk14R I just saw your post for the 3wire plug. pretty sure it goes to your generator. that lead is underneath by the frame. left side. Mine is an '86 , should be the same.
