Question

[85purpleMax]

I have a 1985 Vmax that I bought new when I was in High School. I havent started it or moved it in 10 years. Im sure the carbs are full of gunk and needs a lot of tlc. This bike has just over 6000 miles on it. Any suggestions on how to get running would be appreciated. I took to a motorcycle shop, they quoted me around 1500. I know the carbs are touchy on these bikes as I have had them cleaned and synched before and depending on the mechanic it was a success or was never quite right......

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[dannymax]

PM sent

 

[alorio1]

Pull the carbs off and send them to Dannymax, he's very reasonable and he puts them on a test engine before he sends them back. You carbs will look like and work like new again. He is a vendor on here and specializes in Vmax carb rebuilds, you will be happy you did. I will post up his contact info in a minute or 2.

 

[alorio1]

Never mind he beat me to it but he's the man on carbs...........

 

[Traumahawk]

First of all put in a fresh battery. When you turn the key...you will hear a clicking sound. That is the fuel pump. Drain the gas out of the carbs. I would drain the gas out of the tank as well. Make certain that you have a fresh fuel filter. Take the faux tank off.....and take the airbox lid off....to make certain that you dont have mice living there.

Once you have FRESH fuel in the tank.....and also some sea foam in the gas....cycle the key off and on to refill the carbs. You might also need fresh plugs. Then I would try starting it.

You will probably have to change the seals on the brakes....and the lines themselves....also the clutch line. Make certain the brake MC...and clutch MC are full of fresh fluid....and bleed both UNTIL fresh fluid comes out. Do this BEFORE you try to ride it.

Thats all I can think of for now.

 

[Traumahawk]

never mind he beat me to it but he's the man on carbs...........

+1

 

[jfeagins]

Fresh tires and an oil change never hurt anyone either.

AND, if you haven't ridden in over 10 years, you might want to check for any "loose nuts" attached to the handlebars as well. :biglaugh:

 

[alorio1]

If you are going to try starting it after doing all the above, I suggest pulling the plugs and spay some WD40 into the cylinders. The cylinder walls are completely dry and there is a possibility of breaking the piston rings. There may be a light haze of rust on cylinder walls. It would actually be better to remove the stator cover inspection cover and turn the engine with a socket wrench by hand to make sure the engine is completely free before spinning it with starter. The WD40 will lubricate the rings and cylinder walls which will help rings seal off against the cylinder walls and give you more compression needed for combustion. just my .02 cents

 

[MaxMidnight]

I addition to all of the good advice above, once the fuel tank is drained have a look inside and make sure there isn't any rust present.
This would need to be sorted before re-filling.

Use a cheap oil for the first fill and once you have had the motor up to operating temperature drop it and replace with the lubricant of your choice.

While you are changing fluids you may as well do the final drive as well.

You will also need to replace the antifreeze. Suggest that you flush the system first.

 

[Fire-medic]

I wouldn't be surprised if the brake fluid had crystallized in the F/R brakes & the clutch. As Traumahawk mentioned, fluid flush & bleeding is a minimum, but I suggest a good removal & cleaning for the masters, and blowing-out of the lines is indicated. That would allow you to have some confidence in the function of the systems if upon reassembly they are functional. Don't forget using a pin to clean/open the small hole to-the-front of the master cylinders' inside bottom surface, if it's blocked, your system will never work correctly. You could see about replacing elderly lines, after you have things running and functional. I suggest checking electrical connections and using contact cleaner and dielectric grease. The stator/regulator/rectifier plug is one you definitely want to check for any signs of corrosion and overheating-a discolored plastic plug, bad connections, or broken strands. The best fix is to solder the wires and to eliminate the plug, and to solder the multi-wire crimp bundle (use the search function for instructions).

Have you read Rawarrior's FAQ's? http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21240
Lots of answers to a VMax owner's issues and problems.