R1 Voltage Regulator / Rectifier Upgrade

[thor_eyerdhal]

I did do it as of about two weeks ago now with the Sh775 , 300 amp stator from Exactrep and a cool little L.E.D. charge meter. My multimeter reading reads 14.4-3-4 while idling at about 800 rpm.

You wanted to say 30 A, A 300A alternator should be a great electric brake


Great results !

 

[Penguin]

Couple of days now since the mod. Makes a hell of a difference, already had cops, uprated alternator and goldwing battery, it had always started but when hot would turnover very slow and always raised that doubt in mind, will it or wont it lol. Out doing errands yesterday and found myself turning it off at every opportunity just so I could start it and grin at how easy it turned over.

 

[gentsvmax]

Click Here For Cracked Coil

Heavy Duty Alternator, Fits all Models 1985 ->2007
Heavy Duty Alternator, Fits all Models 1985 ->2007

Part Number: 113

High output 300 Amp alternator

(Ref: Original Yamaha is 250 Amp)
Fits all Models 1985 ->2007

This is from the Exactrep site, I wrote exactly what I meant.

 

[thor_eyerdhal]

Click Here For Cracked Coil

Heavy Duty Alternator, Fits all Models 1985 ->2007
Heavy Duty Alternator, Fits all Models 1985 ->2007

Part Number: 113

High output 300 Amp alternator

(Ref: Original Yamaha is 250 Amp)
Fits all Models 1985 ->2007

This is from the Exactrep site, I wrote exactly what I meant.

It seems they add a zero like it was watts...

 

[Miles Long]

It seems they add a zero like it was watts...

Yup, I think Thor is right.
Rick's Stators advertise their heavy duty replacement as 300 watt maximum output, and mention the OEM as being 250 watts.
The Clymer manual lists the OEM stator output as 22.5amps@5000 rpm.
If you can find a 300 amp stator for your cycle, go for it. You could use it as an emergency backup generator in case you lose your house power, or as a mobile welding machine.:biglaugh:
Cheers!

 

[Bill Seward]

If you tried to run 60 volts at 300 amps through those 3 wires coming from the stator, I'm sure they would vaporize instantly. Most Mosfet regulators can handle 40 to 50amps, I believe.

 

[blaxmax]

Couple of days now since the mod. Makes a hell of a difference, already had cops, uprated alternator and goldwing battery, it had always started but when hot would turnover very slow and always raised that doubt in mind, will it or wont it lol. Out doing errands yesterday and found myself turning it off at every opportunity just so I could start it and grin at how easy it turned over.

Those cops make a helluva difference for the hot starts.

 

[jdeitz1979]

Couple of days now since the mod. Makes a hell of a difference, already had cops, uprated alternator and goldwing battery, it had always started but when hot would turnover very slow and always raised that doubt in mind, will it or wont it lol. Out doing errands yesterday and found myself turning it off at every opportunity just so I could start it and grin at how easy it turned over.

Really? I'm impressed. My bike is starting the not wanting to turn over fast when hot as well. I figure maybe I was needed another battery, do you have the crimp fix?


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[Penguin]

the cops mod helped that a lot however doing this swap seems to have fixed it properly and yes I did the crimp fix by default when the new reg was fitted, going straight to the battery seemed logical lol

 

[jdeitz1979]

the cops mod helped that a lot however doing this swap seems to have fixed it properly and yes I did the crimp fix by default when the new reg was fitted, going straight to the battery seemed logical lol

Yeah, I think the cops are a great mod and I have them in, and they work fine, but they don't fix all the issues with the Vmax, but does enhance a few issues. For a twenty year old platform, there are lots of mods it could use. How did you run your reg, any different then what was posted on here?


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[blaxmax]

Yeah, I think the cops are a great mod and I have them in, and they work fine, but they don't fix all the issues with the Vmax, but does enhance a few issues. For a twenty year old platform, there are lots of mods it could use. How did you run your reg, any different then what was posted on here?


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jdeits, what year is yours?
I use this one for 3 years and I have never charged my battery. I hard wired 3 wire going to the stator and ran a 30 amp fuse inline to the battery. The other plug I wired straight to the negative post.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201358295479?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[jdeitz1979]

jdeits, what year is yours?

I use this one for 3 years and I have never charged my battery. I hard wired 3 wire going to the stator and ran a 30 amp fuse inline to the battery. The other plug I wired straight to the negative post.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/201358295479?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Mines a 91. That's pretty darn cheap blax. I can swing that lol. Currently have my wife's Subaru engine stripped and waiting on a bunch of aftermarket stuff, so 14$ fits in my budget for sure


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[gentsvmax]

Yes, you're right, I definitely and humbly stand corrected, an added zero typo.
This combo is a great upgrade for anyone having stator/rectifier issues.

 

[intruder2]

Mos-Fet transistors generate very little heat compared to the old Zener diode regulated R/R.

I've been thinking about doing this myself but don't really need to now since I did this

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1734

See post #263, I'm getting 14.4volts at idle with the headlight on now

Rusty

hi rusty chuck here im in the process of fixing charging problem with my 89 vmax. im on my 2nd oem r/r. which failed the diode test i recently did. im trying to get to post 263. to read how you fixed this problem but cant figure out how to do it in this forum. could you just post how you did it . thanks ---chuck

 

[intruder2]

No idea regarding your actual question here. I simply bought the new style, finned Vmax R/R. It was plug n play to the OEM one, and all I had to do was route the extra ground wire up to the battery after switching out the two mounting bolts for two slightly longer ones. I've never looked back. So simple, even this cave man did it.

what year is your bike

 

[intruder2]

what year is your bike---chuck

 

[jdeitz1979]

You know, Ive thought about swapping my R/R to the SH 775 just to see how it will do.

Have you done the r/r swap yet?


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[Bill Seward]

I put the SH775 into my Max, it worked so well I got another one and put it in my 2002 Road Star. Same results... 14.4 just off idle. I replaced the perfectly good OEM shunt unit, and am glad I did. If anyone wants the shunt unit, it's yours for the 7 bucks it costs for mailing it. Powersports Nation sells good tested used units for $40.00"shipped. They don't get hot, both bikes have them living under the seat...

 

[jdeitz1979]

I put the SH775 into my Max, it worked so well I got another one and put it in my 2002 Road Star. Same results... 14.4 just off idle. I replaced the perfectly good OEM shunt unit, and am glad I did. If anyone wants the shunt unit, it's yours for the 7 bucks it costs for mailing it. Powersports Nation sells good tested used units for $40.00"shipped. They don't get hot, both bikes have them living under the seat...

Thanks for posting. I was looking for the write up you did on yours, I was pretty positive you had one, but I couldn't find it. I'm looking to put mine in when the weather warms a little, which will be in a few days here. Garage will heat faster and stay warm lol. But as far as wire locations and such, I was questioning that


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[Bill Seward]

jdeitz...Check your messages..