Rear brake safety lighting etc

[Ryanneal]

Ok mothers I promise to wait until I have a cushion behind me before putting it in neutral :biglaugh:

Thanks rusty.... I didn't think about the rpm.... But the neutral switch is easy enough to patch into.... , the complex part is trying to detect the kickstand out condition. I don't want it flashing when kickstand is out (because it means I'm parked)

I'm new at wires etc, but learning. From what I can tell the kickstand switch is a continuity circuit which carries approx 1volt. Break it when then kickstand is DOWN and it will kill the running engine if bike is not in neutral. So.... I don't think a 1volt current is enough to trip my Relay2, which is my problem. I'm using a standard auto relay and it says it takes over 9 volts to trip it. i then started reading about ways to amplify that current with transistors or use a separate power source, the ,y head exploded. :ummm:

I considered adding a separate kickstand switch that i can fully juice, but that is likely another whole can of worms trying to get it rigged up and working.

Wow.... I need a job.
:eusa_dance:

 

[[email protected]]

Have you looked into dry contact relays?

 

[Ryanneal]

Hi... I don't know what dry contact relays are, but I will investigate.

Ok, I think I'm a bone head......
I know believe that it is not a 1 volt continuity circuit, but instead, the kickstand switch is a ground cut off. The reason the voltage is 1 volt is because the line first powers the starter relay before it gets to the kickstand. . Therefore, it is a negative charge line that is wanting to be grounded...


So.... I just need to figure how the grounding of this line can trip my relay. Thinking....:ummm::ummm::bang head::bang head::ummm::confused2::bang head:

 

[Ryanneal]

Can I add new 12v power to the blue/yellow wire between the clutch switch and the sidestand switch, then if it grounds thru the sidestand switch it can trip the relay2. However, I know that I do not want my added power to travel in reverse back up the line toward the starter relay, or does that matter??? Perhaps I add in a diode?

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Dry contact is just a normal every day type of relay that has conventional output contacts. They are "wetted" externally by whatever you provide to them.
If you've got some type of relay like you see in autozone or whatnot for adding auxiliary lighting etc then that is a dry contact relay.

 

[Ryanneal]

Ok. Then yes, all I use are dry relays.

 

[[email protected]]

Nevermind, I read rustys post and he mentions about 30 things I didn't think of!

 

[bazwell]

Sounded good, but I don't think my max has electronic speed sensor? Has cable, right?

Input?

Mate, sorry for the late reply, but I didn't see this thread before.

Even though the Vmax has a cable, there is still a digital signal being sent from the speedo to the flasher unit. It will be able to inform the signal dynamics unit that the bike is stationary, no problem. The only proviso is that you need to have the original speedo. The speedo has 3 wires. One of them is a signal wire, which transmits the same info as an electronic speed sensor.
ie. when the bike is stopped, there is no signal. The rate of signal when the bike is moving might be slower than the rate which is normally transmitted from a digital speed sensor, but that shouldn't make any difference.

So, you don't actually need to make up the circuit with relays and side stand switches! :biglaugh:


edit: Post up the printed information that comes with the signal dynamics unit, and I'll try and work out the wiring for you.

 

[Ryanneal]

Thanks kindly... One caveat. Although the sensor you mention can determine that bike may be stationary I still do not want the brakes to signal while the kickstand is down. The kickstand logic is the complicating factor.


As I keep thinking about it, the current runs from POWER to CUTOFF RELAY (resistance) to CLUTCH SWITCH to SIDE STAND SWITCH then finally to GROUND

What if I add (+12V + RELAY2 = Outputting ground) to the L/Y wire which runs between the CLUTCH SWITCH and SIDE STAND switch. Then, the grounding of L/Y, will also ground and trip Relay2. Drawing coming. I think I have it. Maybe :ummm:

I forgot to label the last switch on the lower right.... It is the NEUTRAL SWITCH.

 

[Ryanneal]

Guys, I wired it up.... And it doesn't fully work. Crap.

I am getting it to send a brake signal while in neutral, but the side stand switch is not cutting it off. I tried 3 different diodes from radio shack in the L/Y wire coming from the moto to the sidestand switch. No luck. Either the diode I'm using isn't the right type, or something else is wacked. Any ideas????!

 

[Ryanneal]

I'm learning, and hopefully not frying my moto at the same time

I

 

[Ryanneal]

I discovered that I might have wired my diode in reverse... i put the stripe way from the battery, and i now think the stripe should be toward the battery at the point I use it.

Comments.?

 

[Ryanneal]

I decided, that I am confused

 

[Ryanneal]

I did it.
Diagram coming.
unk:

 

[Ryanneal]

I finally figured it out.
New thread for quick reference.
Thanks for the input maxers.

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=307920#post307920

 

[bazwell]

Cool. I'm glad you nutted it out!
The problems you had were very interesting, and you came up with a unique solution.

Rock on! unk:

 

[Ryanneal]

Thanks.
In the end I figured that my signal was back-grounding thru the web attached to the starter cutoff relay, and I was getting confused and over my head with diodes etc - and that istaryer relay nothing to *** with. So, I decided to shadow the kickstand switch.

It worked