rear shock reposition?

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Hey guys I figured it out! When I tried to move my shocks to the fwd holes I had the bike in the air with exhaust on.. well I had to repaint my exhaust and put new gaskets in over the weekend and it dawned on me.. when the bikes in the air the shocks are at full extension with NO weight on them.. so I threw the shocks FWD and when I put exhaust on it fit with about a 1/4" to spare.. not like im jumping the vmax any time soon:rofl_200: so now I have alot more travel no rubbing. :) filled the hole in the light with some RTV much happier now. Even with the GF on I bounced up and down my buddy said I still had about an inch and a 1/2. Waaaahhoooo
 
You might need to check into one more thing since you got a chain drive. If your tire is going up so far to hit fender you most likely are going negative on your swingarm which means your chain is loosening and under hard take offs you will only be pulling of top teeth. ( 12 to 3 o clock on sprocket). Not a good thing, not to mention the spring pressure is alot dofferent in negative verse positive. The bike motor is designed to be shaft drive so the foward sprocket is not alot higher than rear like sport bikes. You need the heavy duty springs or extra heavy springs at 12.5 to 13.5. At 12.5 when you sit on the bike your arm is probably at 0 already. Check it with a protracter. I use to rip the teeth of my sprocket and finally figured this out. If you want to Lower your bike with a chain drive you got to strut it and you will be ok. If you are at zero on arm go ahean and set the chain tight, forget the 1/2 play rule, when you hammer it its going to loosen when it travels up on fender.
 
You might need to check into one more thing since you got a chain drive. If your tire is going up so far to hit fender you most likely are going negative on your swingarm which means your chain is loosening and under hard take offs you will only be pulling of top teeth. ( 12 to 3 o clock on sprocket). Not a good thing, not to mention the spring pressure is alot dofferent in negative verse positive. The bike motor is designed to be shaft drive so the foward sprocket is not alot higher than rear like sport bikes. You need the heavy duty springs or extra heavy springs at 12.5 to 13.5. At 12.5 when you sit on the bike your arm is probably at 0 already. Check it with a protracter. I use to rip the teeth of my sprocket and finally figured this out. If you want to Lower your bike with a chain drive you got to strut it and you will be ok. If you are at zero on arm go ahean and set the chain tight, forget the 1/2 play rule, when you hammer it its going to loosen when it travels up on fender.

Yes that might explain why the previous owner told me to buy a pcw swing arm he thought this one was tweaking making it skip teeth. It was definetly rubbing before I bought it.. now it should be alot better! I have 13" progressive 412 with HD springs.. when I finally save up for 17" rims and pcw swing arm. Ill get everything dialed in. But for now I believe it is much better especially after you explaination
 
More than likely a waist of money buying new swing arm. Mine would skip teeth also. It stoped when i figure out in my mind what happens past zero on the arm angle. You need to get two people to sit on the bike and degree the arm see where its at. The heavier the people the better since the motor torqe is so great when riding. Note also how titgt you been having chain. If you pay attention to the guys on lowered stretched sport bikes at strip look how tight the chain is. The ones that no what they doing already have there chain snug because they know once they launch its going to gett loser once it sinks.(the ones that figured it out). Hope this helps took me 6 months to figure this out and several sprockets
 
If you interested i got a set of kosman rims 17" 3 piece for chain or could be shaft front and rear if you like to buy. They are with pictures of my bike on the nos let me know. Custon 3 piece very nice got caliper hanger fittings and all work with stock front calipers.
 
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