Rear Wheel 2001 Vmax.

[johndudek]

If any body has knowledge on how to remove the needle bearings in that rear wheel hub. I would be very happy to hear from you.
PS. I am not a mechanic but I'm very fussy and careful.

 

[liptoss]

I am about to dig into this project with winter weather closing in. I've read a few older threads that have given great info. I've bought a similar to Sealey Blind Bearing Puller kit with numerous collettes, slide hammer and bridge puller. I think this is going to work to extract the bearings. I'm at a bit of a loss on how to set the needle bearing though. I don't want to distort the outer race with the typical socket and hammer technique. If I forge ahead and complete this project in the next while I'll post a detailed write up with photos.

 

[Fire-medic]

If your bearing doesn't have excessive play, consider just cleaning it and re-greasing it.

Pit Posse here in FL has a bearing setting tool w/different size drivers. Check this set to see if it has what size you need.
https://www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-9-piece-bearing-remover-set.html

 

[MaxMidnight]

A bit like buses, none for ages then two turn up at once.

This is an extremely rare repair so I'm curious as to what issues you have with the rear bearings. As Mr Medic suggests unless there is play or notchyness (if there is such a word) I would follow his advice before committing to replacement.

 

[Fire-medic]

Notchiness is also called 'brinelling.'

 

[liptoss]

When the rear wheel in on the bike and it's on the centre stand, I can turn the rear wheel forward slowly (or faster) and hear the typical diff sounds in one 360 degree turn. As the wheel approaches the let's say 270 degree mark I can hear a slight tick click then pause and then a slightly louder clunk pause clunk coming from the diff side. If I turn the wheel backwards there isn't any sounds other than the diff gears.
I've removed the caliper and pads, it's not the brakes dragging. I've removed the rear wheel inserted my fingers in the bearings and don't feel any noticeable roughness in the inner race on the rotor side... although... I've spun the wheel forward and back while I held the axle, applying a slight bit of pressure with my thumbs on the bearings left and right and I can hear on the needle bearing side some tick tick sounds.
When the wheel is mounted back on the bike, without any clamping torque on the axle there isn't any noise, but when I torque it up a bit I will once again hear the sound as described above, as the torque approaches spec it returns louder as described above.
Is it the larger bearing in the diff?
I inserted my horoscope into the fill and drain holes inspecting the gears and they look ok. The diff oil when drained didn't have any "chunks" but typical fine hair filings.
Thoughts?

 

[liptoss]

I've also used the stethoscope and the sharpest sound can be heard when the tip of the stethoscope is pressed and followed on the rim where the spacer and collar (inner race) for the needle bearing would be. Pressing the stethoscope on areas of the diff, the sounds is muffled and not sharp.
I had new rubber installed and balanced a couple of months ago, and I think "maybe" something is going on in the hollow where the spacer lives.

 

[one2dmax]

They suck to get out. I use a set of custom made jaws an then heat the wheel up when I can. Or I weld a small bead to the shell to give purchase for the punch. I use an old outer shell with some of the outer diameter sanded off and a washer welded on one end to drive the new bearing back in place.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sean, is there a plate with nuts/bolts to connect the two arms, and then in the middle of that, a hole into which you attach a slide hammer?

Before I bought my Pit Posse bearing and seal driver set, I'd do as you mentioned, use the old one to drive the new one. I also use a deep impact socket laid across the bearing, and then gently tapping on the center of the deep impact socket, until the outer shell started into its hole evenly. Sometimes you get it right-away, sometimes you have to repeatedly reposition the bearing and the deep impact socket until it aligns properly, and the bearing evenly begins to seat.

I've also cut a slot through the outer bearing shell, which then provides some room for compression of its external diameter, as you use that to seat the replacement bearing. It's similar to Sean's reducing the outer bearing shell diameter with some sanding/grinding, to prevent it from itself being seated as it's being used as a driver.

I was long-ago taught, "never use force on the inner bearing shell!" This is referring to setting the replacement shell. Drive the outer shell. Being a backyard hobbyist, I don't do mechanical repairs for a living, so sometimes mentioning things like this may benefit someone.

Another thing to bear in mind, never use a torch or do welding to heat a wheel/tire with air in it! At the very-least, remove the valve core. One of my co-workers on fire-rescue was on a call where the tech made that mistake while he was welding a wheel on a dune buggy. It cost him his life. A simple, stupid mistake.

 

[cdgawatersports]

The jaws Sean has in the picture look exactly like MerCruiser jaws for pulling out the gimble bearing on a MerCruiser out drive. there is a threaded disk to tighten them (inside the bearing or race) and can be attached to a slide puller or a threaded rod type puller, to press out the bearing.

 

[one2dmax]

I don't have a picture of the puller but it has a tapered cone that pushes out the levers. They do bolt into a cross bar in either a 2 finger or three finger configuration. Then the weighted slide slams on the stop near the handle.

 

[[email protected]]

A couple of my local auto parts stores have loaner tools. One of which is a blind bearing remover. Works wonderfully on this bearing. Also works quite well on the needle bearing in the differential

 

[cdgawatersports]

Bearing Puller If the link opens you can see my puller, it's actually a Snap-On slide puller and the jaws are older MerCruiser. the slide puller is threaded so it can be used a couple different ways. The jaws can be replaced as you can see, I got a little aggressive with this one.

 

[cdgawatersports]

Bearing Puller If the link opens you can see my puller, it's actually a Snap-On slide puller and the jaws are older MerCruiser. the slide puller is threaded so it can be used a couple different ways. The jaws can be replaced as you can see, I got a little aggressive with this one.

 

[Equanish]

I am about to dig into this project with winter weather closing in. I've read a few older threads that have given great info. I've bought a similar to Sealey Blind Bearing Puller kit with numerous collettes, slide hammer and bridge puller. I think this is going to work to extract the bearings. I'm at a bit of a loss on how to set the needle bearing though. I don't want to distort the outer race with the typical socket and hammer technique. If I forge ahead and complete this project in the next while I'll post a detailed write up with photos.

If you put the spindle in while you replace bearings and use the old bearing you won't have any trouble marring the new one.