Regular V-Boost or Full Time V-Boost

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Do you perfer Factory default V-Boost or Full Time V-Boost

  • Factory V-Boost

    Votes: 14 66.7%
  • Full Time V-Boost

    Votes: 7 33.3%

  • Total voters
    21
  • Poll closed .
GUY'S I NEED SOME HELP ASAP. I OWN A V-MAX 91 MODEL. I RECENTLY DECIDED TO MAKE SOME CHANGES TO MY MOTOR. I SEND IT TO TTS PERFORMANCE AND INSTALL JE PISTONS ,CARILLO RODS. THE BIKE IS NOW 1300cc. I TOOK IT FROM MY MECHANIC WHICH IS ONE THE BEST HERE IN GREECE AND HE HAS TUNED MANY V-MAXES. WE HAVE A PROBLEM AND WE CANT FIND A SOLUTION.....

I HAD T-BOOST INSTALLED BEFORE MAKING THE CHANGE'S TO MY ENGINE.

EVERYTHING LOOKS WORKING FINE. THE SERVO RUN'S ALL THE WAY AND BACK WHEN I TURN THE KEY. BUT I DONT FEEL THE V-BOOST KICKIN. I UNPLUGGED ENTIRELY THE V-BOOST PLUG. NO V-BOOST WORKIN AND IT RUNS THE SAME AS IF IT WAS CONNECTED. ALL THE WIRES CHECKED ON THE SERVO AND THEY ARE INSTALLED PROPERLY. THE BUTTERFLYS ARE PULLED BUT NO POWER. MY BIKE WORKS AS IF THERE IS NO V-BOOST INSTALLED ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? NO DIFFERENCE WITH THE V-BOOST WORKING OR UNPLUGGED. PLEASE HELP ME
 
You have had the butterflies removed? Or are you saying it is wired/unplugged in the open position??

Sean
 
I never removed the butterflies, when it is connected i can see the servo pull the butterflies in 6k if i switch my t-boost in 3k it opens in 3k. I can see the movement. I take for a spin . No boost both ways. I disconnect the plug for the vboos servo. And it runs the same. If the servo pulls the buterflies or if i disconnect it .....it works the same
 
can you see it move if you rev the engine while sitting still and have someone watch if the servo works then...
 
a couple ideas come to my mind to check.
Make sure center screw is in servo slide-this happened to me servo moving like normal but not conected to linkage behind
second make sure you have short cable on your bottom linkage in the picture below-this is what pulls butterflies open
again I aint no expert but these ideas came to mind since you see servo working correctly
Good Luck:punk:
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0007[2].jpg
    DSC_0007[2].jpg
    39.4 KB
You may not be able to "feel" it working. This is very common with bikes that have had large power increases. The v-boost moves slow enough in the lower gears that you are accelerating faster then it can change! Try unplugging it in the open position and see how well it does vs unplugged in the off position. A dyno reading would show you the difference (but that's in a higher gear that takes longer to pull through).

Sean
 
thanks all of you guys for your advices .... i disconnected the vboost server in open state (butterflies open all time) i noticed a slight difference from 1k. this tells me that obviously vboost works. but the thing that troubles me is that the difference is very little. and when i dissable the vboost with closed butterflies i feel it going with the same accelaration. i remember beforehe the modification i did to my engine when i closed the vboost from t-boost switch the difference was very obvious.now the difernce is gone ? ? ? ?
 
Your motor is making a lot more power now, so the additional little kick from v-boost isn't as much of a gain as it was to a stock motor. If you hear/see the servo cycling, you know it's working. Just doesn't give the kick-in-the-pants feeling anymore, since your "regular" acceleration is likely beyond even a boost powered stocker.

It's a drop into a shotglass compared to a drop into a beer glass....
 
i put one of those tboost kits on my bike and i have to admit, i can't feel the difference @ 3k vs 6k. i bike pulls hard both ways. :)
 
problem solved. it had nothing to do with my engined gained power with the 1300cc. although the servo works perfectly and the small box goes up and down all the way the butterflies didnt open completely. i removed the fliter box and the carbs. turned the key when i heard the first wzzzzzz i turned the key off. the butterflies should be i full open possition. i pushed with my finger and the butterfly valve and noticed that the valve had more to go.......

1st i unscrewed a litle screw that is on the small black box that goes up and down and pulled it all the way down towards the butteflies valve. this because i noticed when the servo is in closed posstition there was about 2mm wire remaining on the top of small box so when the servo started to pull the black box which pulls the valve there was a 2mm space before it actually starting pulling the valve.
2nd under the butterfly valve there is a small screw that adjusts also the distance for the butterfly opening.



so in locked open possition i adjusted the screw to push the butterfly valve all the way.

installed carbs filter box...... started the bike ......... turned the throttle........and bloody hell..................................





R O C K E T ............. #%#$%#$^#%


THATS WHY I LOVE THIS BIKE.........

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ADVICES... THERE VERY HELPFULL TO REACH TO THAT POINT I HELPING ME UNDERSTAND ABOUT ALL THE F..IN SCREWS THAT VBOOST SYSTEM HAS
 
hey guys i dont have a wire diagram with me and i just put on a used servo motor and it doesnt work....not sure if its the motor or the wires so which wires on the servo would i add power to (jumper leads) to make it move, i was thinking of just adding a toggle switch for closing it to sync carbs then open to ride. i got a stg 7 thats why........ went thru all the trouble of installing it and it doesnt work grrrrrrr
 
hey guys i dont have a wire diagram with me and i just put on a used servo motor and it doesnt work....not sure if its the motor or the wires so which wires on the servo would i add power to (jumper leads) to make it move, i was thinking of just adding a toggle switch for closing it to sync carbs then open to ride. i got a stg 7 thats why........ went thru all the trouble of installing it and it doesnt work grrrrrrr

Can't remember the colors right now. Here is a pic of the end of the servo connector showing which pins I apply power to on mine. Put power in one way and the butterflies open. Reverse polarity and they will close.
 

Attachments

  • 2011-03-06_22-09-54_641.jpg
    2011-03-06_22-09-54_641.jpg
    47.5 KB
thanks mike just what i was looking for

so no way to make it work off a toggle while your driving eh? anyways hopefully the servo works with this bypass
 
thanks mike just what i was looking for

so no way to make it work off a toggle while your driving eh? anyways hopefully the servo works with this bypass

Yes, it can be wired into a toggle to work on the fly. I have the two wires in the picture termined on a DPDT switch. Flip the switch one way and it opens. Flip the switch the other way and it closes. If your looking at the back of the switch there are six terminals.

POSITIVE, NEGATIVE
TO SERVO TO SERVO
NEGATIVE, POSITIVE

I pulled the positive and negative feeds for the switch from the three pin connector under the left scoop that used to feed the vboost controller.

I'm not sure if there is a better way to do it, or if I have other problems with my servo but when I use the switch it will not always stop at full open. I have to physically look to make sure they are. Doesn't seem to have a problem with close. Hit the button, and they close all the way.

I just did it to make it easy to synch really. Once synch is done I just open them up all the way and leave it there.
 
I was told by Cornell that with Vgas you don't use Vboost at all anymore, is this right? Anyone else here running Vgas that still use their Vboost setup? My bike runs awesome and runs way better than before but if I could run Vgas with Vboost that would be even better. Thanks
 
I was told by Cornell that with Vgas you don't use Vboost at all anymore, is this right? Anyone else here running Vgas that still use their Vboost setup? My bike runs awesome and runs way better than before but if I could run Vgas with Vboost that would be even better. Thanks


No vboost with vgas. The OEM intake manifolds and vboost assembly is completely removed and replaced with custom intakes to mate to the vgas carbs.
 
Yes, it can be wired into a toggle to work on the fly. I have the two wires in the picture termined on a DPDT switch. Flip the switch one way and it opens. Flip the switch the other way and it closes. If your looking at the back of the switch there are six terminals.

POSITIVE, NEGATIVE
TO SERVO TO SERVO
NEGATIVE, POSITIVE

I pulled the positive and negative feeds for the switch from the three pin connector under the left scoop that used to feed the vboost controller.

I'm not sure if there is a better way to do it, or if I have other problems with my servo but when I use the switch it will not always stop at full open. I have to physically look to make sure they are. Doesn't seem to have a problem with close. Hit the button, and they close all the way.

I just did it to make it easy to synch really. Once synch is done I just open them up all the way and leave it there.



ahh ya six pole switch thats what i need, brain for sure not working.

so i jumped it and the motor works, i see what you mean by not opening all the way, it came close, then i took the pos away and did it again and it went closer and a third time right full, close yup no prob all the way down and then open was same, i thought it was slow moving thou so chrg the batt and it was full already and same.
well i got the connections cleaned on the bike side of that round harness and hooked it up and it all works now, and faster, so maybe when you apply straight power its slower and not going to full open :ummm:

anyways ya now i can sync and see how it is with vboost on the stg 7 and if i dont like it(ya right) i will hook up the 6 pole switch.
now its only about a 4-5 month wait til i ride hahaha, dry out today and only -7c........maybe just maybe hahahah

thanks again mike
 
When I bought my bike the PO had tried to fit t-boost and it didn't work.
So he set it on all the time.
I liked it. It sounded nice at idle, and the bike went good.
At some point, the v-boost servo got reconnected, and some time after that the v-boost started working! It seems that the controller was flakey, which might be why he turned it full on.

When the v-boost was working, it was AWESOME! Really pulled hard from 6k. Loved it.

Then the controller died altogether, and I drove for a while without v-boost. It was crap.

Then I got a new controller and it was awesome again, but 2nd gear was getting bad.

While the bike has been off the road I have wired in t-boost full time, inside the wiring harness. There is a loop of wire hanging out which I can cut if I don't like it.

Now, I want to get an exhaust and then Seans jet kit. My logic is, at that time, I will need to do all of the mucking around with jetting. So, at that time, t-boost will be permanently on.

It makes sense to me (FYI I don't have any experience, so what would I know?). The only real issues I have heard people level about t-boost is that it runs rich. So, if I set up the jetting with t-boost on, I will find a way for it to be OK, right?

Check back in a year or so and I might have the answer to that! :rofl_200:
 
When I bought my bike the PO had tried to fit t-boost and it didn't work.
So he set it on all the time.
I liked it. It sounded nice at idle, and the bike went good.
At some point, the v-boost servo got reconnected, and some time after that the v-boost started working! It seems that the controller was flakey, which might be why he turned it full on.

When the v-boost was working, it was AWESOME! Really pulled hard from 6k. Loved it.

Then the controller died altogether, and I drove for a while without v-boost. It was crap.

Then I got a new controller and it was awesome again, but 2nd gear was getting bad.

While the bike has been off the road I have wired in t-boost full time, inside the wiring harness. There is a loop of wire hanging out which I can cut if I don't like it.

Now, I want to get an exhaust and then Seans jet kit. My logic is, at that time, I will need to do all of the mucking around with jetting. So, at that time, t-boost will be permanently on.

It makes sense to me (FYI I don't have any experience, so what would I know?). The only real issues I have heard people level about t-boost is that it runs rich. So, if I set up the jetting with t-boost on, I will find a way for it to be OK, right?

Check back in a year or so and I might have the answer to that! :rofl_200:

I run morleys kit with vboost always on, runs nice! You do need to jet for it as you said. I forget now but I belive I'm using stock mains. My needles are stg 7. If u look for threads by me you should be able to find my tuning thread and at the end is my latest results.
 
Back
Top