Replacing front springs

[onspeed]

From reading this thread: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5329

It sounds like if I'm just switching my stock springs for the stock-replacement ones from Progressive (# 11-1144, NOT the lowering 10-1563 kit) , I should be able to simply remove the top nut, take the spring, washer, and spacer, and replace with the progressive spring, PVC pipe spacer, and washer? Someone in that thread even mentioned you could use a pen magnet or coat hanger to take the spring out without having to remove the fork?

I had the oil and seals replaced about 6 months ago. Was supposed to have the Progressive springs installed at the same time but the place I purchased from sent me the wrong ones, so I had then reassembled with the stock spring and new fork oil. I shouldn't even need to drain the oil if mine is still right? Bike has been ridden maybe 1,000 miles since the install.

 

[DMAN999]

^ I'd just pull out the Stock Springs and drop in the Progressives/washer and Spacer in.

 

[The Beekeeper]

I believe the PVC spacers will need to be cut for proper preload, there should be instructions with your new springs....................Tom.

 

[Gargoyle]

Not sure how the Vmax works but on my Honda I just cut the stock spacers down… Not like I was gonna put the stock springs back in anyway..

 

[DMAN999]

I believe the PVC spacers will need to be cut for proper preload, there should be instructions with your new springs....................Tom.

They do.

 

[Hellboy]

I just did mine, love it. I lowered mine 1" as well so I had to remove and rebuild to put the extra spring in to lower it.
I you don't lower it, you are correct, If you put the old spring and the new standing nest to each other you will see that the progressive is about an inch longer. You just have to cut the spacer down to make up the difference so that the preload is the same as factory. In other words, before you put the top nut back on, make sure that the spacer is sticking up the same as the old one was when you first removed the top nut.
Just watch Sean morley's video on you tube, It's very clear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKKdbwMQ5fY

 

[Redbone]

Not sure how the Vmax works but on my Honda I just cut the stock spacers down… Not like I was gonna put the stock springs back in anyway..

On the Vmax the spacer is there for preload. If you want to properly you would have to get a lowering kit which means you would have to disassemble the forks. It's not a bad job, something to undertake when you have a leaking seal. Be sure to check the bushings while your in there. Like Tom, Dennis and Hellboy mentioned, if you lower or change springs you will have to adjust the length of the spacer to achieve proper preloading of the springs. Be sure to note how much of the preload spacer is sticking out when you first disassemble your forks and use that as your guide.

Here is a video that helps to explain what the components are of your forks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w6UhRkX4VU

Here is a look at the insides of your forks:
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/updates/3055-110HarleyForkLowerKit.pdf
This is for a HD but our forks are the same design. Notice that when you add lowering springs it pulls the top section of the fork into the lower section by however long the springs you add are.

 

[fmcandrew]

You could also cut the stock metal spacers as well...it's like 5/8 or 7/8...something like that...

 

[onspeed]

looks like the shop I had replace the fork seal didn't use the right sized socket and partially rounded the top screw. Socket just spun around when I hit it with the impact.

Now to get creative on getting it out.

 

[Hellboy]

I had to destroy mine to get them out. heated shock shaft drilled one out, what a mess. Had to order 2 new ones. That was $175 I didn't want to spend. I'm not happy with whoever it was that messed it up before me. Of course They could have been in there for 15 years, who knows?

 

[fmcandrew]

Not sure what the cap is made of, but if steel & you have access to a welder you might be able to tack on an old socket...you'll need a new cap, but it sounds like you'll need one anyway...just thinking outside the box...

 

[Traumahawk]

Sean sells preload adjusters that REPLACE the stock cap...so you get the best of both worlds, or maybe someone on here has some that they arent using anymore.

Of course all of this is AFTER you get them off.

 

[onspeed]

Well no luck getting the old one out. Anyone have a single right fork for sale?

 

[DMAN999]

Why not take the fork to a Machine shop, I'm sure they can get that top cap out for you.
I took mine to a local machine shop when I stripped my bottom fork bolt and it took them about 10 minutes to get it out for me.
They only charged me $10, if I recall correctly.

 

[Redbone]

Sean sells preload adjusters that REPLACE the stock cap...so you get the best of both worlds, or maybe someone on here has some that they arent using anymore.

Of course all of this is AFTER you get them off.

+1, they work so much better on my early model forks than the stock caps.

 

[onspeed]

Anyone got a stock cap they're willing to sell? New ones are close to $100.. ouch.

 

[DMAN999]

A new one is $73 here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-3LR-23111-00-00.html

 

[dmax1]

looks like the shop I had replace the fork seal didn't use the right sized socket and partially rounded the top screw. Socket just spun around when I hit it with the impact.

Now to get creative on getting it out.

Just out of curiosity have you loosened the top fork pinch bolts? If they are not loose when you change the springs without removing the forks they will hold the cap from loosening. :ummm:

 

[fmcandrew]

Just out of curiosity have you loosened the top fork pinch bolts? If they are not loose when you change the springs without removing the forks they will hold the cap from loosening. :ummm:

+1...Might be holding you back...

 

[onspeed]

Yep, top bolt on the triple was/is loosened.

Just ordered a replacement cap from Sean, so when it gets here I'll put the bike back on jackstands and go to work again. I'm thinking drilling two holes across from each other, slipping a long screw in each, and wedging a screwdriver in between to get leverage to twist. Will report back on how that works.

Any way I get it out, it's looking like I'll end up with aluminum shavings in the fork. Is a small amount acceptable or would I need to go ahead and drain the oil/dissasemble the fork?