Setting dry float levels on the bench

[[email protected]]

The first post of this thread shows a photo of where to measure.

Always a good idea to confirm your results with a wet check. Instructions are here on the forum. There is a sticky in the carb section.

There have been a few times over the years where someone's needle seats were off quite a bit.

Setting the dry float level for those folks resulted in a wet level that was way out of spec.

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[Tmelita]

I recently came across a set of carbs where 2 have the float needle with rubber tip and clip and 2 carbs that have a no rubber float needle and no needle clip. Are there two different options for float needles and are they interchangeable? I notice the ones without the clip and the float set at where the circle meets the circle in a dry set up doesn't shut down the needle....any info is appreciated....

 

[dannymax]

The all metal ones with no clip are older Venture needles. VMax takes rubber tip ones with clip (trim upright wire for float tang clearance)

Also measure the distance the seat sticks down in the float chamber, all 4 should be within a few thousandths of each other...if not you have other things going on.

 

[Tmelita]

It appears that the seat is completely different. What's my options? Can I replace the complete seat in order to restore to a vmax setup verses as you noted venture?

 

[dannymax]

Quite possibly a Venture carburetor also....they are interchangeable with VMax as long as they are 35mm ones from a 1300.

Why not just get a new needle, we sell them at the BRC Carb Shop.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40956

 

[Tmelita]

I tried to see if the rubber tip needle from the other carb fit in the venture carb and it did but it was tight but it did fit. I'll get a couple from you later today.

 

[sdt354]

I tried to see if the rubber tip needle from the other carb fit in the venture carb and it did but it was tight but it did fit. I'll get a couple from you later today.

I believe the needle should fall out of the seat under it's own weight. IMO.

 

[Tmelita]

Thanks.

 

[dannymax]

I believe the needle should fall out of the seat under it's own weight. IMO.

Yes, it should Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

The carbs have to come off to set float levels,unfortunately. It would be nice if they could be externally set like Holley car carbs.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Thanks for all the good information shared by members in this post.

I want to dry-set my carb floats before I assemble the carbs.

By reading all available posts over and over, I learned:

(1) Preferred setting, float to bottom of bowl, is 1.117" (corresponds to 16mm rich) to 1.125" (corresponds to 17mm lean). More folks prefer 1.125"

(2) Circle in casting will line up with float half-moon when (1) is close

One respected member here indicated these measurements are made with full weight of the float on the needle valve spring.

The other sources says the float should be barely touching the needle valve, not compressing the spring.

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/carb-rebuild-part-1-picture-rich.5830/

Which is more accurate?

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for all the good information shared by members in this post.

I want to dry-set my carb floats before I assemble the carbs.

By reading all available posts over and over, I learned:

(1) Preferred setting, float to bottom of bowl, is 1.117" (corresponds to 16mm rich) to 1.125" (corresponds to 17mm lean). More folks prefer 1.125"

(2) Circle in casting will line up with float half-moon when (1) is close

One respected member here indicated these measurements are made with full weight of the float on the needle valve spring.

The other sources says the float should be barely touching the needle valve, not compressing the spring.

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/carb-rebuild-part-1-picture-rich.5830/

Which is more accurate?

You do not want the spring in the float needle to be compressed when setting the floats.

On my vmax, the springs are quite strong. There is no measurable difference in float height when holding the carb sideways vs upside down.

On my dirt bike the weight of the floats compressed the spring. It had to be set by holding the carb sideways so the needle was barely seated

 

[Radioguylogs]

Mike:

Thanks for the reply.

I disassembled the carbs last night and did rough measurements.

I can see what you mean. The floats are so light it hardly matters if you let the weight of the float sit on the needle spring.

 

[user 78489]

Here's a few images from a 1985 V-Max carb cleaning and rebuild... The needle valve seats and plugs will drop out easily by driving them outward. Work carefully using soft punch like tool. Stay off the interior surfaces of the seats. Upon re-assembly, install the new seats with new o'rings, remove the screen filters, and drive them back into place with your punch tools. Tap them firmly to shoulder the seats to the final depth. Install the filter screens and then tap the plugs back into position.

 

[one2dmax]

Here's a few images from a 1985 V-Max carb cleaning and rebuild... The needle valve seats and plugs will drop out easily by driving them outward. Work carefully using soft punch like tool. Stay off the interior surfaces of the seats. Upon re-assembly, install the new seats with new o'rings, remove the screen filters, and drive them back into place with your punch tools. Tap them firmly to shoulder the seats to the final depth. Install the filter screens and then tap the plugs back into position.

Very nice pics. Usually you can clean the old seat (which is superior to the aftermarket ones) and reuse it.

 

[Gbianchi]

Very nice, Thanks!

 

[JMax92]

Here's a few images from a 1985 V-Max carb cleaning and rebuild... The needle valve seats and plugs will drop out easily by driving them outward. Work carefully using soft punch like tool. Stay off the interior surfaces of the seats. Upon re-assembly, install the new seats with new o'rings, remove the screen filters, and drive them back into place with your punch tools. Tap them firmly to shoulder the seats to the final depth. Install the filter screens and then tap the plugs back into position.

Someone should put a video of this on YouTube.
I have been looking for this procedure (video, photos, written instructions) for ages. The manual just says ‘remove and replace’ and the only YouTube videos I could find both drilled them out, with obvious resulting damage.
I tried tapping mine out with an aluminum drift but they wouldn’t budge so I gave up. Any advice on how to ‘encourage’ stuck plug, filter and seat to come out would be greatly appreciated.
Great photos, thanks

 

[Fire-medic]

A bit of heat and a properly-fitting drift punch with use of a ball pein hammer should do it. Easy on the impact, easy on the heat.

 

[DreamV4]

Here's a few images from a 1985 V-Max carb cleaning and rebuild... The needle valve seats and plugs will drop out easily by driving them outward. Work carefully using soft punch like tool. Stay off the interior surfaces of the seats. Upon re-assembly, install the new seats with new o'rings, remove the screen filters, and drive them back into place with your punch tools. Tap them firmly to shoulder the seats to the final depth. Install the filter screens and then tap the plugs back into position.

Very interesting! thanks! I didn't do that...