Share an educated guess??????

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flatslide

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So I'm hoping that I've got some stale fuel, that's giving my MAX fits. A local tech, where I'm a stranger, has told me that I have two bad slides in my Keihin FCR's, and he'll need to re-jet the carbs.

Any hunches as to how much time an experienced tech will need to do this job??????

P.S.
Is a manual fan switch kit available for the gen 1 bike?
 
so i'm hoping that i've got some stale fuel, that's giving my max fits. A local tech, where i'm a stranger, has told me that i have two bad slides in my keihin fcr's, and he'll need to re-jet the carbs.

Any hunches as to how much time an experienced tech will need to do this job??????

P.s.
Is a manual fan switch kit available for the gen 1 bike?

m.s.f.

Yes
 
You don't need a kit, go to autozone and pick up a toggle switch, splice in under the factory fan switch, umder the right side scoop, mount the switch where ever you want, but the plastics by the neck are the popular choice
 
I know there is a good writeup on the details, I would try to point you to it, but I am on my cell and it is kind of hard to navigate the site
 
So I'm hoping that I've got some stale fuel, that's giving my MAX fits. A local tech, where I'm a stranger, has told me that I have two bad slides in my Keihin FCR's, and he'll need to re-jet the carbs.

Any hunches as to how much time an experienced tech will need to do this job??????

Without wishing to state the bleedin' obvious, have you tried running with fresh fuel?

What symptoms are you getting and is it something that has come on suddenly or has been getting steadily worse?

Slides and jetting are not something that will suddenly go bad - if they need replacing it would normally be due to wear or if you have changed something else (e.g. exhaust or inlet) which would alter the air/ fuel ratio.

When I'm given advice that I'm unsure about then I act thick (not difficult) as ask to be shown why the component need replacing and (in your case) ask what the air fuel ratio is.

Unless you are given satisfactory answers then I'd ask around to establish who is a competent technician that you could trust your bike to.

It could be as simple as a blocked air or fuel filter or that the carbs need synchronizing.
 
Go to a boat store & get a waterproof switch instead of the Autozone cheapo switch, more $ but it will survive & not short-out.

As far as the tech who diagnosed your slide problem, what did he say was the problem w/the slides? Old British bikes wore out slides, or carb bodies on their Amals, I don't think I have ever heard of a Jap bike wearing out a slide or slides. On cv carbs, a torn diaphragm, yes, but not the slide.
 
I agree with a marine switch. I used a good switch with a waterproof cover on both Max's. It's still a simple job... Cost was about $25.00 each because I went to West Marine...

Any work you can do on your own to fix the other problem will save you a ton of money. And, who's to say that a Tech knows any more about a fix than you do. There are people here to give you all the knowledge and help to fix it like a Pro....

1952
 
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Without wishing to state the bleedin' obvious, have you tried running with fresh fuel?

What symptoms are you getting and is it something that has come on suddenly or has been getting steadily worse?

Slides and jetting are not something that will suddenly go bad - if they need replacing it would normally be due to wear or if you have changed something else (e.g. exhaust or inlet) which would alter the air/ fuel ratio.

When I'm given advice that I'm unsure about then I act thick (not difficult) as ask to be shown why the component need replacing and (in your case) ask what the air fuel ratio is.

Unless you are given satisfactory answers then I'd ask around to establish who is a competent technician that you could trust your bike to.

It could be as simple as a blocked air or fuel filter or that the carbs need synchronizing.

I've added fresh fuel, though haven't done enough riding to run through the tank. I can add Seafoam.
After purchasing the VMAX, I swapped in a 2" baffle, and reduced the V stax from 110mm to a much more manageable 30mm. My tech from whom I got the bike then leaned it out, and replaced the spark plugs too. That was towards the end of riding season, and I was not feeling that the bike was tuned/running dead on.

Air bursts from a V stack on the right side intermittently, and the engine will pop/ run rough, under acceleration that is. The left side carbs are loud and rhythmic with the click/clack sounds the FCR's make, and the right side carbs only click/clack some of the time, so both sides are not in unison.

I recently picked up four brass fuel screws to install. How long does it take to jet this bike, and install the fuel screws? As far as the two slides the local tech says that their allowing air into the mix, or some such, and that is why he feels they need to be replaced.
 
I have Vgas flatsides and to sync them I just find the line that has the knob with a screw in the middle of the knob. Mine runs from the right side scoops between the carbs and then loosen the screw in the middle of the knob then just dial it in until you hear all four carbs clacking the same then just tighten up the screw in the center of the knob again. But first drain the old gas and it wouldn't hurt to throw a new set of plugs in too then flush out the carbs fill it back up and see how that works
 
Sean, is the VGas carb similar to a Lectron? Saw some at my friend's shop yesterday on a 1500 cc GS1100-based motor used for drag racing. I remember when Kenny Roberts used to run them when he was running stateside before he headed to Europe.

On a different topic, the followers in that 1500 cc engine I started a thread about are from a Hyabusa, shim-under-bucket, to prevent them from becoming 'watermelon seeds' under pressure, & spitting-out. The valves are 1 mm larger int/exh. The bottom end & pistons are in, he's waiting on some other parts. I gave him your email address & that you would be willing to ask him about his pricing for headwork.
 
Email me with the specs (size) and what you need and i'll get you some pricing. I'm not really sure how they do bad??

[email protected]

Yipes. Size? UFO 39mm slide. Local tech said the two slides in the right sided carbs are "out of true" and allowing air to play with the air/fuel mix, having it run leaner as a result. Yes, I'm paraphrasing here. His other thought is that he can't synch the carbs perfectly, with two slides that need replacing. So it goes..

After some discussion about the bike, we will find out cost for the slides, and definitely re jet the carbs, clean the carbs, and synch them. I got a good deal on an Odyssey P680 online, so that will be installed, and tech will do the "voltage crimp" suggestion on this forum, install a UFO billet bar riser, and if time allows, a fan wiring mod.
I was told that the shop runs an I/V line from a smallish gas bottle, and runs a bike that way for diagnostics, so my gas tank has not yet been drained. What me worry...
 
Yipes. Size? UFO 39mm slide. Local tech said the two slides in the right sided carbs are "out of true" QUOTE]

Not sure how this could be a result of wear, sounds more lika a machining screw-up. Have you got hold of UFO about it? :ummm:

Yup, I think that "wear" is the tech's presumption here. He asked me if I knew how many miles are on the carbs. I mean there's 16K plus on the clock, maybe that's the number, I don't have an answer.

No I haven't pinged Jon @ UFO, though I will, 'cause I have an unrelated question for him.
 
23 days later, and my MAX is still at the shop. Now I am told that it is running reasonably well, though it needs an accelerator pump, or maybe the pump diaphram. Thanks to a forum member, I had a Boyeson Q.S.3 installed when I bought the bike, and I thought that it is an adjunct pump to the stock accel pump. At this point, what do I know:)

How much would FCR carb jets cost, and how much for a replacement rubber diaphram? Trying for "ducks in a row", before I see aR.O. bill at the mechanic.
 
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