Sidestand shortening question

[Miles Long]

Lads - just shortened mine by 1 1/2" , by cutting about 2" below the pivot point, taking out a section, and rewelding back together (also used a 5/16" threaded stud for extra security) No problem, straightforward modification.
Of course now the OEM spring is too long. What I did was to remove the upper spring dohickie (pic), that just so happens to have the two holes close to 1 1/2" centerline distance apart. Soooo - installing the spring using the frame pin as the upper mount, and the sidestand hook as the lower, gives the stand the correct amount of tension to keep it against the frame when retracted.
The problem - the stand does not retract on spring tension with just a slight nudge of the foot, as the original design does. It has to be pushed back about two inches, THEN it snaps up. Not a real big deal, but is there a way around this?
Cheers!

 

[one2dmax]

We cut below the spring tab for this exact reason to keep the spring all working as it should.

 

[Miles Long]

We cut below the spring tab for this exact reason to keep the spring all working as it should.

Thanks Sean.
I had considered doing this, but removing a 1 1/2"section below the spring hook would have meant the hook would practically be touching the ground. Guess I should have posted a question BEFORE I did the mod!
In any case, if I find a way to return the stand operation to normal, I'll post again.
Cheers!

 

[bazwell]

Mine was cut under the spring tab, and yes, the tab is almost touching the ground. It works great though.

You have moved the lower mounting point.
So, imagine the side stand is up. The lower mount is now 1.5" forward.
Becauae the stand relies on going over centre, that part of the geometry is wrong now. The amount of extension and contraction has changed too.

You could try a shorter spring, but that will require more elongation (as a % of spring length) before it snaps over center.
It might work,for you might have to move the upper mounting point as well as use a shorter spring.

Easier to start with another stand. Remember, if you cut the stand low, the angle the foot is attached will affect things quite a bit. You will probably have to heat it up and straighten the foot to get it just right.

 

[one2dmax]

We have a jig we use to do our stands with. Makes the hook touch the ground at the same time as the foot.

 

[Miles Long]

Mine was cut under the spring tab, and yes, the tab is almost touching the ground. It works great though.

You have moved the lower mounting point.
So, imagine the side stand is up. The lower mount is now 1.5" forward.
Becauae the stand relies on going over centre, that part of the geometry is wrong now. The amount of extension and contraction has changed too.

You could try a shorter spring, but that will require more elongation (as a % of spring length) before it snaps over center.
It might work,for you might have to move the upper mounting point as well as use a shorter spring.

Easier to start with another stand. Remember, if you cut the stand low, the angle the foot is attached will affect things quite a bit. You will probably have to heat it up and straighten the foot to get it just right.

Good explanation of the geometry, Bazz. Thanks.
What if I was to drill and tap a hole, near the foot, and attach the spring using an solid eyelet ?? (threaded shank)

 

[gentsvmax]

I have here a shorty that as you can see I cut off just above the pad and just below the spring pin, overlook the crude jig I made, what I did do is Tig welded it then a black powder coat. It works fine, I can measure it for you and if you can use it ,its yours.
Ill post the dims in the morning Denver CO. time.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I just heated mine in two places and put an offset bend in it, below the spring tab, two bends instead of one in order to get the footplate level on the ground.
Works fine and you never know it's been messed with unless your looking for it.

 

[bazwell]

Good explanation of the geometry, Bazz. Thanks.
What if I was to drill and tap a hole, near the foot, and attach the spring using an solid eyelet ?? (threaded shank)

I guess that could work.

 

[Miles Long]

I have here a shorty that as you can see I cut off just above the pad and just below the spring pin, overlook the crude jig I made, what I did do is Tig welded it then a black powder coat. It works fine, I can measure it for you and if you can use it ,its yours.
Ill post the dims in the morning Denver CO. time.

Much appreciated, Gent, but I've got the stand where I want it now(hopefully!)

One reason why this forum is so special. Members, the majority of whom have never met personally, offering parts and services for free, or just the cost of shipping.
It's like a disease - a good one to get, one that is highly contagious and spreading.
It could be named after many people on this forum, but for now I'll just call it.....
MORLEYITIS.
As per the sidestand, to get back to the original spring operation after taking the chunk out above the hook, I drilled and tapped a 1/4" hole, screwed in a SS bolt from the front, and filed out a slightly smaller diameter where the spring sits. After stretching the spring a bit (using vicegrips) and putting in place, a Nylok nut keeps everything secure.
Now the stand retracts with just the slightest toe kick, as it did before shortening.
The rubber footpad is thick enough to allow some profiling, once the bike is off the centerstand and I can see how it contacts the ground.
Cheers!

 

[one2dmax]

Pictured is our jig, a stand previously bent by a customer and traded in, a stock stand, and one of our modified stands.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

We cut below the spring tab for this exact reason to keep the spring all working as it should.

Exactly!

 

[Erikvb]

Risking a little "off-topic" here...what have you done to your bike that would require a 1,5 inch shortening of the side stand??

 

[sdt354]

Risking a little "off-topic" here...what have you done to your bike that would require a 1,5 inch shortening of the side stand??

Lowered it, through suspension wheel size or both.

 

[Traumahawk]

Risking a little "off-topic" here...what have you done to your bike that would require a 1,5 inch shortening of the side stand??

Stock rear shocks are 13 inches. I went with 11.5 shocks, and lowered the front 1 inch, with preload adjusters.....so 1.5 inches all the way around. With the stock side stand, my bike would sit straight up and down, and it felt like a 10 mph wind would knock it over.

 

[Miles Long]

Risking a little "off-topic" here...what have you done to your bike that would require a 1,5 inch shortening of the side stand??

I lowered the front and rear suspension by 1.5 inches
Cheers!

 

[Miles Long]

I had to lose the rubber footpad, it wouldn't stay in place.
So I will fab a tapered metal footpad, maybe with a tad more area than the sidestand pad, and weld on, to get a better contact with the ground. As it sits now, only the front half of the ss pad is making contact. Question is - should I decrease the lean angle a bit? It's at 14 degrees right now. I can't remember how much the stock bike angle was.
Check it out......

 

[one2dmax]

Looks like enough lean to me. The handlebar angle also affects the lean.