Solid Motor Mounts Are INSTALLED!!!

[one2dmax]

Not only that but the plastic gears in the engine don't melt. The delrins won't melt and we didn't just take them out to put in the aluminum ones. The engine had a trans failure and we swapped in a good engine in it's place. They didn't want to spend money on another set of mounts so we swapped the old ones out (or at least tried). Maybe they were older mounts who knows.

I agree that both types (mounts and braces) are the best way to go. Braces are easier by far to do. I wish the brace guys would send a longer cross bolt where it bolts in at the front. There just isn't enough thread on the rod with the flange to provide a good solid connection point.

Most guys don't ride the bike to the limit the factory gave them much less with the improvements. Every bit does help but most will not be able to tell the difference when they add the emulators in place and as you noted will be plenty happy with springs only.


Sean

 

[WVxNitemare]

But I'm doing the springs and lowering 1 inch by the dampers... is that still easier than the mounts? BTW, I'm in the process of making the motor moutn install with pics.

 

[WVxNitemare]

Okay I've posted a how to guide with pictures. Hope this helps someone else. The pics are a bit big but if a mod wants to fix go right ahead. Thanks a ton.

 

[one2dmax]

Springs only are very easy. Adding the lowering blocks is a bit harder but still about an hour job for an experienced person (or less) but not a terrible amount longer for a novice.

Sean

 

[WVxNitemare]

Springs only are very easy. Adding the lowering blocks is a bit harder but still about an hour job for an experienced person (or less) but not a terrible amount longer for a novice.

Sean

So how does one get the damper rod out? Buy the tool?

 

[Nicki66]

If you have an air or electric impact wrench, that will break them loose for you. I don't believe that there is a tool that will fit your dampeners.
I ground down the end of a wooden broom handle to fit into the dampening rod to hold it on the install.

 

[gamorg02]

Springs only are very easy. Adding the lowering blocks is a bit harder but still about an hour job for an experienced person (or less) but not a terrible amount longer for a novice.

Sean

taking my time, i just got both forks done in about 1.5 hours. completely dismanteld so its not bad.

So how does one get the damper rod out? Buy the tool?

i was lucky. just by loosening the bolt by hand while the forks were still put together. the pressure the spring put on the damper rod was enough to hold it still.

i have the same stupid circular damper rods.

 

[one2dmax]

We usually use an impact as noted and just "burp" the trigger to break them loose. Sometimes you need to put pull or push pressure (or leave the spring in) to hold tension to the dampener so it will stay in place and break loose.

Sean

 

[RMSVMAX]

There's an illerate nimrod selling Aluminum mounts on Ebay with so much BULLSHIT claims that it's actually sad reading it.
Eg. He claims they melt ( Delrin) because of the engine temperatures with numerous guys complaining all over the forums.
Funny thing is next to my Acetal engine mounts is a plastic elbow tube from the waterpump housing which is 22 years old and come to think of it my plastic oil filler cap is also 22 years old and hasn't melted....Amazing!:rofl_200:

EXACTLY...THANK YOU, 'Jedi...

'Nuff said.

John
RMSportMax
610-509- VMAX(8629):eusa_dance:

 

[RMSVMAX]

But I'm doing the springs and lowering 1 inch by the dampers... is that still easier than the mounts? BTW, I'm in the process of making the motor moutn install with pics.

I really don't understand why folks insist on making it harder than it has to be, by getting into the forks, to do what takes us a few minutes to do, & is EASILY adjustable/reversable...

Install the springs,
(I like Progressives best, because the ARE...progressive...tighten up as I push harder, without sacrificing comfort whan I'm not...)

trim the spacers to your riding style & weight,

(remember, you can always trim more, but you can't add it back...I usually start at 1/2" for normal riders...)

Then...

93 up: SIMPLY slide the forks up in the trees, up to 1 1/2 ", depending on personal preferences, then RIDE it, and adjust & fine-tune to your liking...
REALLY EASY.

85-92: Remove the air caps, (no longer needed with Progressives) & the rubber washer, turn the bleed hole so it's facing backward, (seals best in the upper triple that way) then slide the fork up until the clip touches the top triple. This is not an adjustable setting, due to the bleed hole, but I have found that inch or so of drop works fine...

MUCH EASIER, MUCH more adjustable(93 up), and EASILY reversible (although I can't imagine WHY anyone would want to...)
and cost...ZERO dollars...I LIKE those kind of mods BEST!!!

At only an inch or so, I have never had a problem with how this looks either... Particularly with a handlebar that has any rise to it, it is hardly noticeable...& with dragbars, as long as they are WIDE enough, it's not a problem either.

As always, hope this helps.

John
RMSportMax
610-509-VMAX(8629):eusa_dance:

 

[4gasem]

come to think of it my plastic oil filler cap is also 22 years old and hasn't melted....Amazing!:rofl_200:

Your oil cap is plastic? Mine was aluminum... :eusa_dance:

 

[RMSVMAX]

I agree that both types (mounts and braces) are the best way to go. Braces are easier by far to do. I wish the brace guys would send a longer cross bolt where it bolts in at the front. There just isn't enough thread on the rod with the flange to provide a good solid connection point.

...One of the things I like about SportMax braces,
is that we use the stock acorn nut up front,
(or a trick setup is to use Allen head nuts-we have a few of those from broken motors)
& the design allows the nut to be mostly hidden, & minimal depth,
so thread length is not an issue.
On the rear mount, again, the design allows the backside of the bolt to be hidden, and a stainless Allen cap bolt means it not only looks clean & smooth, but will not interfere with leg, seat, or anything else...

John
RMSportMax.com
610-509-VMAX(8629):eusa_dance:

 

[jedi-]

Your oil cap is plastic? Mine was aluminum... :eusa_dance:

Lol now that I think about it you're correct without me racing into the garage to double check. However it doesn't waver my argument.....:biglaugh:

 

[one2dmax]

I agree that both types (mounts and braces) are the best way to go. Braces are easier by far to do. I wish the brace guys would send a longer cross bolt where it bolts in at the front. There just isn't enough thread on the rod with the flange to provide a good solid connection point.

...One of the things I like about SportMax braces,
is that we use the stock acorn nut up front,
(or a trick setup is to use Allen head nuts-we have a few of those from broken motors)
& the design allows the nut to be mostly hidden, & minimal depth,
so thread length is not an issue.
On the rear mount, again, the design allows the backside of the bolt to be hidden, and a stainless Allen cap bolt means it not only looks clean & smooth, but will not interfere with leg, seat, or anything else...

John
RMSportMax.com
610-509-VMAX(8629):eusa_dance:

That's what I am referring to. The mounting location of your type ends up with less threads for the nut to engage to. The last bike we worked on (a supercharged Vmax you sold a few years back - orange big tire rear) had your braces on it and the threads had already pulled out of the acorn nuts and cross rod. We replaced it but per the AN/NAS standards it simply does not allow for a really good bite. I like your mounts - don't get me wrong - it's just I would like to see a longer cross rod (but that's more cost).

We had to do a transmission job to that bike which had already had to have an engine rebuilt. PCW did the engine build but the trans went shortly after. We put in one of our overdrives in it and his fuel mileage doubled!

 

[Rusty McNeil]

We usually use an impact as noted and just "burp" the trigger to break them loose. Sometimes you need to put pull or push pressure (or leave the spring in) to hold tension to the dampener so it will stay in place and break loose.


Sean

Leaving the springs in and loosening the bolts first has always worked for me, and reinstalling the forks and tightening the bolts after installing the springs when going back together.

The first time I did it and ended up using a wooden closet dowel rod for the tool to keep the damer from spinning, that worked ok too, doesn't take much pressure to keep it from spinning...

 

[4gasem]

Leaving the springs in and loosening the bolts first has always worked for me, and reinstalling the forks and tightening the bolts after installing the springs when going back together.

The first time I did it and ended up using a wooden closet dowel rod for the tool to keep the damer from spinning, that worked ok too, doesn't take much pressure to keep it from spinning...

Agreed!

 

[WVxNitemare]

We usually use an impact as noted and just "burp" the trigger to break them loose. Sometimes you need to put pull or push pressure (or leave the spring in) to hold tension to the dampener so it will stay in place and break loose.

Sean

Alright then. I'm going to give this a try. Worse case scneario it all spins around and I take it into the dealer to remove the damper rod and put in the lowering blocks and reassemble myself. I'll take pics too again. I have to say, working on 'this' bike is a lot easier than working on cars and trucks when I was a mechanic years ago. Nothing is rusted on... nothing seized.. like working on a new car.

 

[yukonerdave]

Ordered my solid mounts today - thanks for the write up man! Let us know if you hit any snags with the springs - often you can get a question answered within minutes on here!