Spark plugs

[Bowaleed]

What is the best spark plugs in the market for max preformance?
Any hp gain ?

 

[MaxMidnight]

General consensus is that there is no other plugs that has an advantage over the NGK DPR8EA-9.
The only gain you may get is if an old tired plug is replaced by a new one.
Also keep the rest of the HT system in good fettle.
Even then all you will achieve is keeping the HP you should have rather than gaining any.
If you want more GG's then you will need much deeper pockets than the price of a set of plugs.

 

[Bowaleed]

I already have everything on my max, I have 4-1 full hindle exhaust, TT air box mod, nash flash,pcv,pc ignition module, 17” rear wheel with custom rotor, windshield, healtec quickshifter, and i will order air shifter soon, lock up clutch.

i’m looking for any thing that can give me some extra hp, plugs or any thing else.

There is someone also said that the DNA air filter give much more hp than k and n, I already need to change my air filter so i will try it.

what do you mean by HT system ?

 

[Itgoes]

That air shifter will help and you should be running race fuel.

MR12 is probably good for 8-10 HP would be my guess. You have a Power Commander installed? You need to add 10% more fuel to the map across the board.

 

[Bowaleed]

That air shifter will help and you should be running race fuel.

MR12 is probably good for 8-10 HP would be my guess. You have a Power Commander installed? You need to add 10% more fuel to the map across the board.

I will use mr12 for the track with 40 wet shot, and i will use octane booster for the street, but not sure what is the maximum octane that I could go.

 

[rebeltaz83]

I will use mr12 for the track with 40 wet shot, and i will use octane booster for the street, but not sure what is the maximum octane that I could go.

You can go as high as you want, it's when it gets too low is when it's an issue.

 

[Itgoes]

I will use mr12 for the track with 40 wet shot, and i will use octane booster for the street, but not sure what is the maximum octane that I could go.

MR12 is not real high octane, a stock engine doesn't need it. Only if you were to increase the compression ratio or go to forced induction would higher octane be necessary.

The power increase from MR12 or similar fuels is from the fact they are oxegenated. They deliver extra oxegen to the engine.

All you need is the fuel in your tank and a 10% increase in fuel in your map.

Octane booster won't do anything for you currently.

 

[Itgoes]

[.

 

[2017VMax]

Higher octane just stops the gas from igniting under compression until the spark actually ignites it. The gain it horsepower comes from igniting at the right time. Igniting too soon from compression causes heat and loss of horsepower. It took me a long time to understand that.

 

[Bowaleed]

Higher octane just stops the gas from igniting under compression until the spark actually ignites it. The gain it horsepower comes from igniting at the right time. Igniting too soon from compression causes heat and loss of horsepower. It took me a long time to understand that.

I already have power commander ignition module which can add ignition timing,
So if i use octane booster such as boostane and make the octane rise until 110 with ignition tune it a good idea for daily use and is it will give 5+ hp ?

 

[Traumahawk]

I already have power commander ignition module which can add ignition timing,
So if i use octane booster such as boostane and make the octane rise until 110 with ignition tune it a good idea for daily use and is it will give 5+ hp ?

Everything is a compromise on a stock engine (ignition.....fuel system....suspension....etc). You will probably benefit from a couple of degrees of extra timing ( the ignition timing coming in sooner.) But you wont know how much you will benefit until you take it to a dyno and spend some time. On my 07 (and using an ignitech, and 87 octane fuel) I gave the bike 3 degrees extra timing across the board. I picked up 2 hp on back to back runs. I then increased it to 5 degrees across the board and LOST 4 hp. So I lost 2 hp even from my baseline. I heard no detonation (pre ignition). if I wasnt at a dyno, I never wouldve known.....and unfortunately my butt dyno just isnt that accurate.

Higher octane resists detonation. Thats it. In reality it also burns slower, so if your running higher octane than what the engine actually needs, you can actually lose hp. You need to run the octane just right at what the engine needs.

The older rule of thumb was for every 1 increase in compression was a 4 hp increase for every 100 hp. So if an engine made 200 hp, then increasing the compression 1 point would give you 8 hp. Now, this was a mechanical increase in compression. Higher compression pistons, thinner head gaskets, etc. Higher compression can also increase the efficiency of an engine. On the gen 2, I dont know if people have tried to increase the compression, and if they have, what to?

My gut feeling is that you will pick up some hp by increasing the ignition timing......because the stock setting is a compromise. (Ignition timing has an IMPORTANT role in exhaust emissions, and so its a compromise.) but I dont think 5 hp. Yamaha did a lot of things to make the Gen 2 fairly efficient.

Now, where the ignition timing will play a role will be with the NOS. The ‘general rule of thumb’ for retarding your ignition for nitrous is pulling (or retarding) 2* for every 50 horsepower worth of nitrous you intend on spraying. Again, i would block a day of dyno time just to tune the various different systems. Please post up what you find.

On my 2011, I have the TT airbox mod, PCV, POD300, Hindle 4-1, healtech quickshifter. Getting ready to add a custom rear rotor. I have thought about nitrous, and so probably something in the future. Currently looking a suspension upgrades.

 

[Bowaleed]

Everything is a compromise on a stock engine (ignition.....fuel system....suspension....etc). You will probably benefit from a couple of degrees of extra timing ( the ignition timing coming in sooner.) But you wont know how much you will benefit until you take it to a dyno and spend some time. On my 07 (and using an ignitech, and 87 octane fuel) I gave the bike 3 degrees extra timing across the board. I picked up 2 hp on back to back runs. I then increased it to 5 degrees across the board and LOST 4 hp. So I lost 2 hp even from my baseline. I heard no detonation (pre ignition). if I wasnt at a dyno, I never wouldve known.....and unfortunately my butt dyno just isnt that accurate.

Higher octane resists detonation. Thats it. In reality it also burns slower, so if your running higher octane than what the engine actually needs, you can actually lose hp. You need to run the octane just right at what the engine needs.

The older rule of thumb was for every 1 increase in compression was a 4 hp increase for every 100 hp. So if an engine made 200 hp, then increasing the compression 1 point would give you 8 hp. Now, this was a mechanical increase in compression. Higher compression pistons, thinner head gaskets, etc. Higher compression can also increase the efficiency of an engine. On the gen 2, I dont know if people have tried to increase the compression, and if they have, what to?

My gut feeling is that you will pick up some hp by increasing the ignition timing......because the stock setting is a compromise. (Ignition timing has an IMPORTANT role in exhaust emissions, and so its a compromise.) but I dont think 5 hp. Yamaha did a lot of things to make the Gen 2 fairly efficient.

Now, where the ignition timing will play a role will be with the NOS. The ‘general rule of thumb’ for retarding your ignition for nitrous is pulling (or retarding) 2* for every 50 horsepower worth of nitrous you intend on spraying. Again, i would block a day of dyno time just to tune the various different systems. Please post up what you find.

On my 2011, I have the TT airbox mod, PCV, POD300, Hindle 4-1, healtech quickshifter. Getting ready to add a custom rear rotor. I have thought about nitrous, and so probably something in the future. Currently looking a suspension upgrades.

Thank you Traumahawk for you reply,
Sure i will do everything in the dyno and the tuner will set the timing and tune the bike.

I saw many reviews about boostane (octane booster) and tests, but I don’t know if that’s real or it’s will work with our stock engine bikes, that’s why I want to know if any one tried it before.

But is there any damages maybe will happen to the engine for the high octane like 110 even if it’s tuned well with high timing, because i will keep it my regular fuel for my daily use.

i will Use 40 wet shot too because I think this will be the maximum what i can go with safety, i will post what i will get with my new mods when i finish, and what i will get in the track too, my best was 9.74 with bad 1.61 60ft and pump gas,my target is 8.99 with wheele bar and air shifter and 40 shot and race fuel, and some little better things like Better oil and better spark plugs and Clutch lock up and changing my k and n air filter to DNA Air filter and still searching and looking for any new mods even if it will give 1 more hp.

 

[Traumahawk]

As far as spark plugs I would just recommend stock or the equivalent. NGK/CR9EIA. I use the autolite xs 4302 due to cost. I dont think there is much difference between the 2. Now, one thing that I do think makes a difference is when the plugs are changed. Yamaha recommends changing ever 12K miles. Some people say because the spark plugs are a pain to change, dont change them until there is a problem. The 2011 had over 40K miles when i bought it, and had never had the plugs changed. The bike still felt strong, but when I did change the plugs.....they LOOKED like they needing changing. So if your Bike has 190-200 hp to the rear wheel.....and your losing 5 hp due to bad spark plugs, can you tell the difference with the butt dyno? I'm gonna follow factory specs.

Now Tim Nash recommends Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil for the Vmax. I dont know if there is a benefit, but Tim really is a guru on the gen 2, and if he recommends it, I'm using it......and I do.

I do not believe that high octane fuel will harm the engine by itself. All of the harm comes in from mis tuning the engine, or a failure of somesort.

 

[Bowaleed]

As far as spark plugs I would just recommend stock or the equivalent. NGK/CR9EIA. I use the autolite xs 4302 due to cost. I dont think there is much difference between the 2. Now, one thing that I do think makes a difference is when the plugs are changed. Yamaha recommends changing ever 12K miles. Some people say because the spark plugs are a pain to change, dont change them until there is a problem. The 2011 had over 40K miles when i bought it, and had never had the plugs changed. The bike still felt strong, but when I did change the plugs.....they LOOKED like they needing changing. So if your Bike has 190-200 hp to the rear wheel.....and your losing 5 hp due to bad spark plugs, can you tell the difference with the butt dyno? I'm gonna follow factory specs.

Now Tim Nash recommends Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil for the Vmax. I dont know if there is a benefit, but Tim really is a guru on the gen 2, and if he recommends it, I'm using it......and I do.

I do not believe that high octane fuel will harm the engine by itself. All of the harm comes in from mis tuning the engine, or a failure of somesort.

I will try NGK plugs and see how it will work and sure i use what Tim recommends.
I will use octane in my next tune and i will see what i will get
Thank you Traumahawk for you help

 

[MAXimum_effort]

General consensus is that there is no other plugs that has an advantage over the NGK DPR8EA-9.
The only gain you may get is if an old tired plug is replaced by a new one.
Also keep the rest of the HT system in good fettle.
Even then all you will achieve is keeping the HP you should have rather than gaining any.
If you want more GG's then you will need much deeper pockets than the price of a set of plugs.

I bought these and they didn't fit my 09. They also jumped up to a 18mm

 

[Traumahawk]

I bought these and they didn't fit my 09. They also jumped up to a 18mm

NGK DPR8EA-9 fit the Gen 1 only. NGK/CR9EIA is for the Gen 2.

 

[MAXimum_effort]

NGK DPR8EA-9 fit the Gen 1 only. NGK/CR9EIA is for the Gen 2.

Yep I did more digging and got the right ones lol thank you