Most likely. Too tight will cause problems too. Same with swing arm adjustment, tire pressure, worn tires.
Help Support VMAX Forum:
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Amean to that :clapping: Thats exactly how I adjust mine! Well not a screwdriver I use a bronze shaft. I am comfortable all the way up to 160 I do get a little drift but no more pant shitting wobbles at 130
If I don't know anyone that has a welder, is there another way to be able to use a torque wrench?
You can do something like this, if you want. But it's really only good to find out what the torque setting ended up to be after using the following:
Set your bike up on the centerstand and let the bars fall to one side and then the other. I will bet that the steering head bearings are too loose as has been said already.
The bars should take a slight push to start movement and then should fall and stop on the bottom. If they bounce (or if they won't stay halfway down when setting them there) the bearings are too loose.
It's a very common problem as many don't know how to set the right. Too tight and you won't be able to keep going in a straight line without constantly correcting the steering. Too loost and you can't take your hands off.
Sean Morley
That's Sean's method and it works well. As I mentioned in a previous thread, my torque setting ended up to be 23 ft. lbs. That, however, is a useless figure, the important thing is that the bike handles well.
The only specialty tool you need is something to turn the nut with, screwdriver, brass drift punch, wife's favorite barberque fork with 1 tine bent, whatever. :biglaugh:
dan
Set your bike up on the centerstand and let the bars fall to one side and then the other. I will bet that the steering head bearings are too loose as has been said already.
The bars should take a slight push to start movement and then should fall and stop on the bottom. If they bounce (or if they won't stay halfway down when setting them there) the bearings are too loose.
It's a very common problem as many don't know how to set the right. Too tight and you won't be able to keep going in a straight line without constantly correcting the steering. Too loost and you can't take your hands off.
Sean Morley
That's Sean's method and it works well. As I mentioned in a previous thread, my torque setting ended up to be 23 ft. lbs. That, however, is a useless figure, the important thing is that the bike handles well.
The only specialty tool you need is something to turn the nut with, screwdriver, brass drift punch, wife's favorite barberque fork with 1 tine bent, whatever. :biglaugh:
dan
Attachments
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Had a max for little over a month now. I need to do this to fix my wobbles too. Seems worse around 40-50mph than high speed on mine. I've only been up to 120 or so, not sure if thats were to expect it. So, the question is, the "special" washer as shown in the attached diagram, part #6 that has the bent tabs that fit into the two nuts:biglaugh:. Does this washer also have a tab on its inside circumference that locks into the steering stem. I've seen it on dirt bike clutches and other things. Just did not want to loosen the top nut under the bars and then tighten the the bottom nut only to find out there was a tab on the inside of this special washer that would chew into the steering stem threads.
If no tab, this sounds really easy.
1. Loosen LOWER tree pinch bolts
2. Loosen top steering stem nut, directly under handle bars
3. Tighten BOTTOM steering stem nut and the top should go with it
Is this all correct or am I mistaken?
had to edit to add the pdf
If no tab, this sounds really easy.
1. Loosen LOWER tree pinch bolts
2. Loosen top steering stem nut, directly under handle bars
3. Tighten BOTTOM steering stem nut and the top should go with it
Is this all correct or am I mistaken?
had to edit to add the pdf
Last edited:
Nope, no tabs. Part # 6 will pick right up off the 2 nuts. Pick up part # 6, the top nut should only be finger tight, back it off a little, you can leave the rubber washer on the bottom nut, it won't affect anything, tighten the lower nut to where your front end works well, hand tighten the top nut so the groves line up and lower part #6 down the grooves.
If you tighten the top nut too much the rubber washer will bulge out, back it off to correct that.
Good luck, keep us posted.
dan
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
so, if having tightened the steering bearing nuts, the bike still shakes its head uncontrollably whenever it's doing 85mph or higher and is either slightly banked or goes over a bump, then what?
Has anyone attempted to mount a steering damper? Was it any help?
Anything else I should be checking? The forks look stock other than a beefier brace, and according to the PO they have progressive springs. The rear shocks, I dunno. My original VMax manual says the OEM shocks are adjustable for both preload and damping. The shocks on my bike look like they have preload only. Also it's impossible for me to get the bike on its centre stand unless I roll the rear wheel on a plank, so I have a feeling some fruitcake lowered it using these whatever shocks I now have..
The tires are stock sizes Dunlop Qualifiers. The front looks 40% worn, and the rear probably 60-70% worn, still has plenty of meat on it and isn't near the wear marks yet.
Help! All I wanna do is cruise comfortably at 90mph, I'm not attempting to drag or race, and right now going 90 is like a death wish with that wobble plaguing me
Has anyone attempted to mount a steering damper? Was it any help?
Anything else I should be checking? The forks look stock other than a beefier brace, and according to the PO they have progressive springs. The rear shocks, I dunno. My original VMax manual says the OEM shocks are adjustable for both preload and damping. The shocks on my bike look like they have preload only. Also it's impossible for me to get the bike on its centre stand unless I roll the rear wheel on a plank, so I have a feeling some fruitcake lowered it using these whatever shocks I now have..
The tires are stock sizes Dunlop Qualifiers. The front looks 40% worn, and the rear probably 60-70% worn, still has plenty of meat on it and isn't near the wear marks yet.
Help! All I wanna do is cruise comfortably at 90mph, I'm not attempting to drag or race, and right now going 90 is like a death wish with that wobble plaguing me
Last edited:
Have you inspected your steering bearings? Are the tops of the forks level with the top of the triple tree?
Shuriken
Well-Known Member
Been following this thread with interest, as it directly relates to the one I posted here:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4456
I can force a death wobble any time I decelerate from like 50 and take the hands of the bars....
My front tire is crap. I'm sure it's a huge contributor....
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=4456
I can force a death wobble any time I decelerate from like 50 and take the hands of the bars....
My front tire is crap. I'm sure it's a huge contributor....
Yeah, I'm starting to get a wobble on deaccel. around 20-30. Time for a new front tire I think. I go through two rear tires for every front it seems.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Didn't inspect the bearings yet as I'm not home with my tools.
The top of the forks are indeed level with the triple tree top. Only the chrome caps bulge above.
How does your front tire feel when you run your hand over it?
Is it smooth? Or is it feathering or have bumps and uneven wear?
I only have a little vibe coming from my front end now, but my front Dunlop is feathering even though it's only about 60% worn.
I'm getting a new Metz put on next Saturday.
Is it smooth? Or is it feathering or have bumps and uneven wear?
I only have a little vibe coming from my front end now, but my front Dunlop is feathering even though it's only about 60% worn.
I'm getting a new Metz put on next Saturday.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
so, if having tightened the steering bearing nuts, the bike still shakes its head uncontrollably whenever it's doing 85mph or higher and is either slightly banked or goes over a bump, then what?
Has anyone attempted to mount a steering damper? Was it any help?
Anything else I should be checking? The forks look stock other than a beefier brace, and according to the PO they have progressive springs. The rear shocks, I dunno. My original VMax manual says the OEM shocks are adjustable for both preload and damping. The shocks on my bike look like they have preload only. Also it's impossible for me to get the bike on its centre stand unless I roll the rear wheel on a plank, so I have a feeling some fruitcake lowered it using these whatever shocks I now have..
The tires are stock sizes Dunlop Qualifiers. The front looks 40% worn, and the rear probably 60-70% worn, still has plenty of meat on it and isn't near the wear marks yet.
Help! All I wanna do is cruise comfortably at 90mph, I'm not attempting to drag or race, and right now going 90 is like a death wish with that wobble plaguing me
Thats strange! Mine is rock solid to whatever speed I decide to take it up to.I tighten the bearings till it starts the low speed weave then back them off just enough to get rid of that.Then loctite the top nut on with blue loctite.This constantly worked loose on mine.This works good for me,mine sees triple digits quit often too.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
What do you mean by feathering? I just ran my hand over it, and it felt pretty smooth and the wear looks even enough to me, although it's hard to tell..
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Feathering means high spots then low spots about 4-6 inches long on the side wall.Tread could still look decent.Similar to cupping.
Exactly what I was referring to.
Sometimes one tread may be worn higher on one end then the next tread will be lower. Sort of like a series of small ramps. This is usually caused by improper tire pressures.
"""The tires are stock sizes Dunlop Qualifiers. The front looks 40% worn, and the rear probably 60-70% worn, still has plenty of meat on it and isn't near the wear marks yet.""""
Ok, just as a little experiment, go have that REAR tire re-balanced, or just go ahead and replace it now. Then, without any other mods, go back out and carefully accelerate up to the speed you currently experience the head shake. That will tell you exactly how much that back tire can - and does - affect head shake. (BEWARE: some dealerships will take your money for a spin balance, but yet only bubble balance and not get it correct.)
Try it. You will be amazed at the difference. I dare you.
:eusa_dance:
Ok, just as a little experiment, go have that REAR tire re-balanced, or just go ahead and replace it now. Then, without any other mods, go back out and carefully accelerate up to the speed you currently experience the head shake. That will tell you exactly how much that back tire can - and does - affect head shake. (BEWARE: some dealerships will take your money for a spin balance, but yet only bubble balance and not get it correct.)
Try it. You will be amazed at the difference. I dare you.
:eusa_dance:
A friend recently told me that you should re-balance the front tire at least every 2000 miles...it makes a difference.
Can you tell me the difference between spin and bubble balancing is?
Can you tell me the difference between spin and bubble balancing is?
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Before there was spin balancing with a computer, there were bubble balancers. Basically, you place the wheel/tire on it's side centered on the center cone of the bubble balancer. The bubble on the machine acted like the bubble of a level, but in all directions at once. The side of the wheel that weighs the most will try to tip down towards the floor and offset the center bubble. You trial and error wheel weights until you get the wheel to sit on the bubble balancer perfectly without tipping. - NOT nearly as scientific as a computerized spin balance job.
Then there are dealers who think they know more than the average Joe, and take your money for a balance, align the little tire manufacturer marks to the valve stem and call it good. Then if cornered they counter with the old crap about how many times the tire came out perfect IF they actually checked it. YES, I have caught a dealer doing that before. I guess there must be many, many tires that don't need further balancing from the factory, but that wouldn't work if you've lost one or more of your original weights from the factory, or if you've had a previous tire that required a different set of weights at a previous spin balance from a reputable dealer....etc... For no longer than it would take to throw the new tire/wheel combo on the machine and check it, it is worth the peace of mind.
In my experience with tires, every time a back tire gets worn, whether it still looks good or not, may cause head shake. On the other hand, when I've had any problems with a front tire, I would usually experience vibrations in the handle bars, but not side to side shaking. I had a Venture tire go bad one time and be so bad that it actually hopped up and down at speeds below 40mph, but still didn't cause head shake.
I suppose a front wheel with a slight bend in it would cause head shake. I've never had a wheel that bad before.
Similar threads
