Sputtering

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bikedave99

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Hmmm... well I've got an 88 Max with around 35k on it. I just got it a couple monthes ago and haven't been having any trouble really besides the common hot starting.
However, recently I was pulling into work on a cold day and the bike just quit as I rolled into a parking spot. I was worried so waited for it to cool down then went out and it started up ok but idled really low and would tend to die. On the way home it would sputter a little and didn't feel or sound quite right. So, I figured I am missing on one cylinder. All my plugs looked alright, but my wire boots were pretty cracked and swollen so I went ahead and ordered some new NGK's. I checked all the plug connections and they seemed ok. So, i drained each float bowl and they all came out rusty...

So, I figure I will have to clean out the carbs and line my tank. Any recommendations as far as this goes? How would it be to install a rebuild kit? Would the shot gun technique be sufficient?

Also, how is tank removal on this animal, I suspect it takes a little more to get to it...

Thanks for the help!
 
I concur that you should change your plug wires. Make sure you clean where they plug into the coils. Clean all your grounds and ensure you have good charging. Next, check your air and fuel filter. If the F.F. is really dirty it could be causing the debris in your float bowls. Run a shot of Seafoam every time you fill up and continue to check your carbs. Oh, check your float level, adjust your pilot screws and sync your carbs too.

Look at getting a Clymer manual, it outlines how to remove the fuel tank. I would shine a flash light down there and check that way first. After changing the fuel filter continue to monitor it for debris. It might be a good idea to change the fuel lines too.

Mark
#1098
 
Thanks for the prompt reply! When I drained my float bowls I pulled all the fuel lines I could and blew them out and flushed fuel backwards through the filter to get some of the crud out and there was some rust chips and chunks in there. I couldn't get a new filter right away so i had to just put it back. Seemed to run better for a little bit but then went back to on/off on one cylinder. I have been seafoaming it to no avail apparently. Can I put a bunch of SeaFoam in or just a shotglass like you recommend?

I've got a K&N air filter on it which I may need to clean but something I thought was interesting was when I pulled the airbox and filter off I tried to fire it up and it just wouldn't run hardly at all. Is that right for it to struggle so much when there is no intake resistance?

Another thing, as far as syncing the carbs go, can I just use a vacuum gauge or do I need to use a synctool specifically?

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply! When I drained my float bowls I pulled all the fuel lines I could and blew them out and flushed fuel backwards through the filter to get some of the crud out and there was some rust chips and chunks in there. I couldn't get a new filter right away so i had to just put it back. Seemed to run better for a little bit but then went back to on/off on one cylinder. I have been seafoaming it to no avail apparently. Can I put a bunch of SeaFoam in or just a shotglass like you recommend?

I've got a K&N air filter on it which I may need to clean but something I thought was interesting was when I pulled the airbox and filter off I tried to fire it up and it just wouldn't run hardly at all. Is that right for it to struggle so much when there is no intake resistance?

Another thing, as far as syncing the carbs go, can I just use a vacuum gauge or do I need to use a synctool specifically?

Thanks again.
 
I concur that you should change your plug wires. Make sure you clean where they plug into the coils. Clean all your grounds and ensure you have good charging. Next, check your air and fuel filter. If the F.F. is really dirty it could be causing the debris in your float bowls. Run a shot of Seafoam every time you fill up and continue to check your carbs. Oh, check your float level, adjust your pilot screws and sync your carbs too.

Look at getting a Clymer manual, it outlines how to remove the fuel tank. I would shine a flash light down there and check that way first. After changing the fuel filter continue to monitor it for debris. It might be a good idea to change the fuel lines too.

Mark
#1098


Everything Mark said is good - just want to add that you should remove drain plug at bottom of gas tank and see what comes out (dirt, rust, etc...) Once drained put a flash light to the bottom or top look through for rust in the tank.

Mike
 
Wow, I didn't know the Max had a drainplug! Or is it just the fuel level sensor? Thanks for the info!
 
The fuel tank has the fuel level switch and a separate drain plug.

It's normal for it to run like crap w/o an airbox.

I would follow the instructions on the can of Seafoam. Adding more doesn't necessarily mean it's a good thing. Another option is using a product called BG 44K. They have it had Advance Auto retail stores. It's pricey but the best stuff I have every used.

Mark
#1098
 
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