Stage 7 set up

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I don't have any experience with the stg7 setup, I've only fooled with sean's jet kit. But, as long as you have the vboost butterflies closed then it should synch up just like any normal set of carbs. 1K rpm vs. 1.2K rpm won't make it jump off the charts like what you are seeing.

My guess is that your carbs are just WAY out of synch after being taken off, the rack split, and new parts installed, etc.

Next time, instead of synching per the book,(cyl 1+2, cyl 3+4, then side to side) try to start off by synching side to side and then start all over.

 

[tugla]

have you tried swapping the vac lines from one side to the other to illuminate a problem with the tuner? see if problem follows to other side or stays with carb 1 and 2.

 

[vmaximum]

im just getting my weber tuner for my stage 7. so give me a few days and i'll let ya know but from using the carb tune i found just about at stock idle worked just great for me. how high up are 3 and 4? are they way off 1 and 2?

at first 3&4 were about a 1/4 of the length lower than 1&2 but i tinkered with it while i would shut off the bike and was able to get them some what even but they dont dance nice and still before i have to shut the bike off. they rise up 3/4 of the way pretty quick then in about 3 seconds they start climbing out of the meter.

 

[vmaximum]

I don't have any experience with the stg7 setup, I've only fooled with sean's jet kit. But, as long as you have the vboost butterflies closed then it should synch up just like any normal set of carbs. 1K rpm vs. 1.2K rpm won't make it jump off the charts like what you are seeing.

My guess is that your carbs are just WAY out of synch after being taken off, the rack split, and new parts installed, etc.

Next time, instead of synching per the book,(cyl 1+2, cyl 3+4, then side to side) try to start off by synching side to side and then start all over.

ya, i took it for a test ride warming her up sunday without them synced, the s7 like everyone says i lost alot of that low and mid, it pulls a lot harder in top for sure. im going to check out seans in a couple of months, after i get used to the s7 for a minute.

have you tried swapping the vac lines from one side to the other to illuminate a problem with the tuner? see if problem follows to other side or stays with carb 1 and 2.

no i did not and will as soon as i get back home Wednesday, but it is a lot different than stock. before it would jump in the lower 1/4 and not its like it slowly climbs off the scale jumping a little bit on the way up.

 

[tugla]

what jets did you put in and needle position, just curious as im going to be digging into mine in a day or so.

 

[vmaximum]

s7 calls for 4th notch, and i have 175's the kit comes with 165's & 175's says if you have after market exhaust you use the 175's. comes with directions that makes it very easy. some pointers i learned.. count all your parts as soon as you open the kit as i did and noticed i was missing an air corrector. dyno jet had it to me in 2 days from my call. also my max is a 99 and it had stock jets in it 152.5, i needed new rubber o rings they were dried out and turned my already long down time to even more. for as cheap as they are i would say go ahead and order them so your not waiting. couldnt find the part # but on this sites microfisch under carburetor its #26 need 4. i would not reccomend ordering from this website due to how long it took them to get me the o rings
www.starpartsdirect.com

http://www.starpartsdirect.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1999&fveh=893 Rob

 

[rumblethump]

s7 calls for 4th notch, and i have 175's the kit comes with 165's & 175's says if you have after market exhaust you use the 175's. comes with directions that makes it very easy. some pointers i learned.. count all your parts as soon as you open the kit as i did and noticed i was missing an air corrector. dyno jet had it to me in 2 days from my call. also my max is a 99 and it had stock jets in it 152.5, i needed new rubber o rings they were dried out and turned my already long down time to even more. for as cheap as they are i would say go ahead and order them so your not waiting. couldnt find the part # but on this sites microfisch under carburetor its #26 need 4. i would not reccomend ordering from this website due to how long it took them to get me the o rings
www.starpartsdirect.com

http://www.starpartsdirect.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1999&fveh=893 Rob

I started 175 and found 165 better for street & open boost.

 

[Redbone]

I did a few price comparisons between Star Parts Direct and Ron Ayers which show that Ron Ayers was lower priced.
O-Ring(carb manifold) SPD = $6.59 RA = $3.91
Carb joint 3(manifold to carb) SPD = $18.30 RA = $14.07
Hose(fuel pump to carb) SPD = $9.59 RA = $8.54

Ron Ayers does a decent job of getting the parts out to you, typically 5 days or less. Though nothing beats going down to your local dealer and picking it up when your in the middle of a project. My local dealer charges something like $12 for a oil filter and sometimes has to order them!:bang head: While on ebay you can get filters for $5 - $6 all day(pre-'93).

 

[one2dmax]

If you are going to use a stage seven get some 150 mains (some even use a 147.5). The 165's are very near the same as the stock jet size (note that the dynojet and mikuni jets are not sized the same - see the chart on my website).

Sean

 

[vmaximum]

sean your saying put a main in smaller than the stock one? i couldnt find the size chart on your web page.

 

[one2dmax]

The size chart is in the carb section. Yes, with a stage seven a smaller main then stock works better.

Sean

 

[vmaximum]

to help any one installing a s7... my expierence is if you leave the v-boost it is absolute crap. still not done but i been pulling my hair out trying to get it to work with v-boost and i decided to ziptie my butterflies open and it about came to life. still need to tweek it tommorow. still not impressed with the s7 at all but i should wait to say that after im done tuning.

 

[gamorg02]

s7 needs the vboost always open as far as i know..

 

[tugla]

what kind of exhaust are you running?

 

[Nobody]

to help any one installing a s7... my expierence is if you leave the v-boost it is absolute crap. still not done but i been pulling my hair out trying to get it to work with v-boost and i decided to ziptie my butterflies open and it about came to life. still need to tweek it tommorow. still not impressed with the s7 at all but i should wait to say that after im done tuning.

I found my S7 to work really well when the V-Boost was open at 3K. That way I could still get good low end torque and have the benefit of the S7 after 3K. Also are you using the velocity stacks inside the air filters?

 

[vmaximum]

what kind of exhaust are you running?

kerker 4-1

 

[vmaximum]

I found my S7 to work really well when the V-Boost was open at 3K. That way I could still get good low end torque and have the benefit of the S7 after 3K. Also are you using the velocity stacks inside the air filters?

no

 

[vmaximum]

s7 needs the vboost always open as far as i know..

directions say can be used with both, it is "known?" that it runs better open as i have noticed for sure. i think it is "known" it runs better with the flies removed, i left mine in and disconnected my linkage to butterflies and riged a cable so i can un-do it to sync my carbs without even taking off my air filters to get to the assembly.

 

[vmaximum]

anyone with s7 set up could you state your specs you are running along with any other mods you are running? i am running a kerker 4-1, flies in and zipped open, no stacks. wondering what peoples main jet size,paj#2 size, clip setting and spring set up are

 

[tugla]

I got a kerker 4-1 also, the vboost where fully removed so open all the time. 4 individual k&n filters and i raised them up a little with rubber coupling, main reason was to try and hold the filters on, they keep popping off no matter how loose or tight i clamped them so this seem to help and also increase the length like adding a riser. I bought the bike with the stage 7, actually didnt do anything to it but the filter mod. the needles where on position 3 out of 6 from the top and the main jet was 160. now i think it's a DJ but looks exactly like the mukini but the stamping for jet numbering was different. as for paj2 it is stock number cant remember it right now and a/f screws 2 5/16 out.

it had a super rich smell at idle, crazy burn your eyes out so i lowered the floats they were a little high, put in 150 mukini jets, now if they were 160 DJ then same thing(thanks again sean for the jets and air corrector) and It was missing one of the 4 air correctors.
It was getting 35-40 mpg easy on the highway. on the pizza run driving 65-70 mph i was getting 40 otherwise usually 35mpg at 75mph with behaving lots.

pretty much ran good, started fine couldnt hold it wide open had a think rich bog around 7500, let off a lttle then back on it and started to pull again but slow. wont know til spring time if my needle chg and jet helped or worsened the symptoms. for sure ran like rapped ape, at lease compare to my other vmax, all stock with cobra slip ons, the V2 has way more jam down low.

first pic just showing the height difference with and without the coupling, they are all sitting the same height at the end.